ParDeus Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 It will sound great if the box is designed correctly. Care to specifically lay out how that is done? Concerning the OP's goal, and seemingly mine as well. I see a lot of "ohh it can hit 20hz - 70hz nearly flat if you do it right", but then no more explanation. I assume he knows that whatever he builds should be designed correctly, it's the details that we need. I know it might be a generalization, due to all the factors, but I'm sure there is some bullet points, no? This question is posed sincerely, because I, and I'm sure other, don't know.
mothra Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 As for now i'm planning to go with Fi TEAM 18" at near its rated rms (4000W) in a ported sub with maximum recommend volume & tuning somewhere between 27-33hz. I already have Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 for crossover & EQ'uing it. But my question is, how would it sound when I turn down the gain to daily listenable level, compared to a 12" Fi SSD (rated 1000W RMS) in a sealed box.? (Assuming both are part of different setups) I am having this confusion because, I read at many places that 18" subs are not efficient in playing double bass. I don't want competition SQ, I am still more towards moving maximum air.. Just want clear notes & loud sound.. For different kind of music which includes metal (double bass) & electronic music (low bass).. They don't handle double bass because they have to travel farther. That's why concerts and DJs use 4" subs. if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know
n8ball2013 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 The whole 18s aren't accurate thing can be thrown out the window just like 8s don't play low THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Aj11 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 i wish i had the room for a forth! i really do! maybe next time. or at least when i put my big boy pants on And build a wall! jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)
PolishThunder Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 op needs to realize its all in the box. crappy prefab boxes sound like poop. there small and tuned high. so there "loud" at one note with 0 sq. any sub on any power can sound amazing with a good box. the box Is just as if not.more.important then the sub And amp. I'll put it this way, a ten inch sub in a 2cubic foot box on 1,000w be louder and sound better then a 18inch sub in a 2 cubic foot box on 2,000w You just read my mind, I say this a lot but the box is extremely important and way too many people don't realize that.
bkolfo4 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 It will sound great if the box is designed correctly.Care to specifically lay out how that is done? Concerning the OP's goal, and seemingly mine as well.I see a lot of "ohh it can hit 20hz - 70hz nearly flat if you do it right", but then no more explanation. I assume he knows that whatever he builds should be designed correctly, it's the details that we need. I know it might be a generalization, due to all the factors, but I'm sure there is some bullet points, no? This question is posed sincerely, because I, and I'm sure other, don't know. Just have to go on a case by case basis. Many people's biggest mistake is always trying to use the largest sub possible and they don't have the proper airspace for a good design, or using a smaller sub and trying to get too much out of it.Like stated above, 8's can play low, but most people don't realize it because they want loud more than they want frequency response so the subs never have a chance. My suburban played anything I threw at it, and played pretty darn flat from 30 to 80 Hz. Rock, country, jazz, rap, whatever. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
Joe X Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 Way too peaky alignments many times will limit useable bandwidth too.
slowfkncar Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 My previous setup was 4 way active. 15" diamond tdx 3.5 gross 30hz ported 20-50hz / 10" mmats pro3 sealed 1 cube 50-120hz /6.5 diamond hex mids 120-3.5khz /cdt dr26 tweets 3.5khz-14khz. All speakers have been actively crossed over via pioneer 80prs. 15" sub crossed over from amps lpf. 10" procast had to have the phase swapped 180°. It sounded awsome,everything was tight with no cancellation. Best thing to do is play around with speaker placement and phase angles. Make sure everything is crossed over properly or your woofers will have a hard time playing certain frequencys.
bkolfo4 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 Way too peaky alignments many times will limit useable bandwidth too. Definitely - which is what happens most of the time when a large sub is placed in a box that is too small or is tuned to high. I would assume tuning too high would be an obvious issue vs. the box being too small might not be, since most people just associate smaller box = more power without regard to what it is doing to the frequency response. Many times it is trial and error and doing what sounds good to you. Like the posts above on ported vs. 4th order - as soon as I read "in my opinion", that was all I needed to know. Many times people judge by what sounds good to them without knowing why, if it could be better, if it could be worse, why it sounds the way it does, etc. Reminds me of all the port area arguments. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 13, 2014 Report Posted March 13, 2014 As for now i'm planning to go with Fi TEAM 18" at near its rated rms (4000W) in a ported sub with maximum recommend volume & tuning somewhere between 27-33hz. I already have Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 for crossover & EQ'uing it. But my question is, how would it sound when I turn down the gain to daily listenable level, compared to a 12" Fi SSD (rated 1000W RMS) in a sealed box.? (Assuming both are part of different setups) I am having this confusion because, I read at many places that 18" subs are not efficient in playing double bass. I don't want competition SQ, I am still more towards moving maximum air.. Just want clear notes & loud sound.. For different kind of music which includes metal (double bass) & electronic music (low bass).. Once your gains are set, you shouldn't mess with them. They shouldn't be used as a volume knob. You can use a PAC LC1 or something like it to adjust the level of your bass. I can tell you this though, 4k + 18 + ported box will be a lot louder than 1k + 12 + sealed box. The 18 will sound great. It's the enclosures job to control/limit the movement of the sub and as long as it is built solid, no leaks, good tuning and placement you won't give a 2nd thought to your other idea. Go to the next/nearest show in your area. Listen to different set ups and see what you like. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
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