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CJ18

Just a thought on batteries and charging systems.

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:bandwagon:

Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. :(

I want bad.

And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff.

But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. ;)

Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around.

Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head.

"i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt"

"How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?"

and such....

Maybe this needs to be PINNED ???

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Thread of the year nom


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(2) Jolt 150ah

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id like to add to cj. you do need a certain amount of batteries to act as a buffer for yuor alternator. what I mean by buffer in this case is pretty much giving the alternator voltage regulator time to say "oh i am producing amperage, keep voltage up now". generally when you draw from the alt your voltage drops. this is either becuase you are pulling more than your alternator can supply, or you dont have enough amperage to absorb the initial peak hit of the sub amps. to keep it simple and not get into details about how the alternator functions, the voltage regulator adjusts current going into the rotor to produce certain voltage. it doesnt adjust instantly like the hit of music. thats why when people are told to add a battery if their voltage drops down low or spikes up to 15-16 after they let off. this is the voltage regulator "catching up".

why we add batteries , or even better, why we add capacitors, is to help level off this voltage and give the voltage regulator an easier time and more time to adjust to the ever changing electrical demands. so the reason why we need at least 1 battery or more sized to the system is to hold a steady voltgage and to keep a lot of the peak demands off the alt.

the best test of this would to put a multimeter on min hold and put at amp. a good meter will catch your actual voltage drop and you will see how good your buffer actually is.

if anyone has more to add to this or to clear it up a bit please add.


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:bandwagon:

Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. :(

I want bad.

And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff.

But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. ;)

Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around.

Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head.

"i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt"

"How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?"

and such....

Maybe this needs to be PINNED ???

Take me to bed, uh, I mean send me pics or lose me forever!

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It would be pretty cool to have a bank of caps, assembled with balancing circuit, inside a group 31 casing. Just buy the unit and install it

XS power wink wink nudge nudge :)

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:bandwagon:

Ive wanted a legit cap bank for months now.. :(

I want bad.

And Rockford-Expedition, ...... i have a pic or 2 of some stuff.

But, im gonna work on adding SUPPLY first. ;)

Great info. This subject gets a lot of members spun around.

Seems everyone else is seeing the same questions and posts, and like me, scratches there head.

"i run 8000rms and i stay over 13.5 on my 200amp alt"

"How many bats do i need to stay over 14v?"

and such....

Maybe this needs to be PINNED ???

Take me to bed, uh, I mean send me pics or lose me forever!

Lol. Naw dude. I just have MAXWELL pics, some from slamming and Chris. I gots no hush hush stuff.

I'm gonna add alt before I do anything else.

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Finally had the time to go through this whole thread. Just have to say thanks to all who put in great info, truly appreciate it, and must say that I Love this thread.


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2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

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4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

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Hmmm . . . In drag racing, if one racer comes up with an idea to improve the efficiency of their combination, they'll use the drag strip to prove it. By comparing time slips, one can easily determine if a change made was a good one or a bad one. Maybe it improved E.T., mph, 60', or even the interval times. Bottom line is, changes that work can be readily identified. The same can be said for changes that don't work.

In car audio, we really need to become better at proving our theories. Recall your 7th grade physical science class - begin with a hypothesis then go to work to prove whether it is correct or incorrect. None of what I've read here is outside of the scope of "proving" for any clever SMD member with access to a quality DMM.

Remember, you'll learn far more when you've got such conviction on an idea and then prove to yourself that you were wrong. Then the fun begins - why was I wrong?


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