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Do you run individual remote wires or run 1 in series for multiple amps?


JEFFYBOI

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5+ probably comes from a relay. Remote outputs on a headunit can only support so many devices.

5+ probably comes from a relay. Remote outputs on a headunit can only support so many devices.

After so many devices (amps)? the signal from the HU becomes to weak so a relay is put it to beef up the signal?
The reason why you don't want to run more than 1-2 components on the HU's remote is because most electronic components need about 125mA to turn on. On average a HU supplies about 500mA and as years go by, the current draw can be even higher. The turn on circuit can burn out completely if the current draw exceeds the HU's rating. So if you are running multiple components it is best to use the relay method if you don't to want to fry the turn on circuitry on your HU.

So basically the components will try to suck more current then the HUs remote output can put out and the electronics will fry in the process? So in other words the HUs remote would be some what be clipping? :shrug::lol2: Thanks, good to know this info. I never knew that, I learned something new.

Yes sir, I think we got carried away from what the actual question was...lol but here is a quick example to put it into perspective.

The remote wire provides 12v to the first amp, and then the second amp gets about 10.5v with a 1.5v drop from the first amp, then to the third etc....the second amp needs that 1.5v drop to actually see that the head unit is on. The HU sees this and tries to send more current to help out the second amp, then the third amp etc....the HU is now overloading and trying to do more than what it's capable of....then bam!!! Amps stopped working because you just fried your remote wire....

Hopefully that was a good example....

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Wow, this thread blew up for a stupid reason.

its simple as this

remote wire --> relay

12v power source (battery imo) --> relay

relay --> amps

of course ground

fuse if you want but its a small power draw and should be safe but fuse is greater then car fire.

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Why not run the normal one remote wire to a relay in the trunk and take 12V from one of the amp power wires? That would make wiring much simpler than running multiple remote wires to the trunk from a relay up front.

I am still interested if my idea is a good one or not.

Current: Two old school Orion HCCA 12's, No amp currently. Did run DAT Hellfire Prototype.

Old set up: Orion 2NT 15", Logic Soundlabs GSX32D,

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Why not run the normal one remote wire to a relay in the trunk and take 12V from one of the amp power wires? That would make wiring much simpler than running multiple remote wires to the trunk from a relay up front.

I am still interested if my idea is a good one or not.

its fine...

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Series wiring indicates running pole to pole through... you are definitely not wiring + to -

If you hooked up 5 subs in a row but parallel, and the wires burned up between subs 1 and 2, you'd lose 2 3 4 and 5. Doesn't make it series.

wiring up drivers and wiring up amplifiers are to TOTALLY different things brother. can't compare the two.

drivers have a separate ground from the chassis, amplifiers do not ...

It's still electricity. You are not connecting these in series if it's + to + to +

It would be series if it were + on one end to - on the other. The negative ends are all connected together (the internal relay inside the amp uses a coil wired to both + and - so it is indeed a circuit)

+ + +

- - -

* parallel

+ - + - + - + - +

^ series

Not series

Would have to use the amp ground to the next remote for it to be series.

It parrellel

Answer this question to yourself, will the amp power on with just a remote wire and no ground?

With that in mind, can you conclude that the board would have a path to ground itself internally thru the ground input terminal to complete its circuit to tell the amp to turn on?

Just because there is no external ground doesn't mean the board itself doesn't use the ground internally, which it does.... which makes it a series!

You just explained why it's parallel, bro.

I can see why you'd make the mistake, though. The topology resembles series topology except that the wires are connected at the terminals, unlike true series where the + on one unit would connect to the - of the next unit.

Think of it like this, if it were truly series, 3 amps would split the turn on voltage, for about 4 volts each, and nothing would turn on.

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