_paralyzed_ Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy.Depends on how they're facing, though. Right? Like everything when dealing with spatial loading, or more commonly known here as just loading, it is frequency dependent on when your going to get more or less of a gain in dB. When looking at direction, it is hard for a speaker to produce the same of-axis response as a on-axis response. There are however optimal size speakers for given frequencies for the most optimal off-axis response. I believe that it goes tweeters:1-inch midrange:6 to 6.5-inch midbass: 10-inch, woofer:12/15-inch and for subwoofer I think anything 12-18 is close to the same. Currently researching this for my own doors. This link suggests a 1", a 4" an 8" and a sub... http://education.lenardaudio.com/en/05_speakers.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy.Depends on how they're facing, though. Right? Like everything when dealing with spatial loading, or more commonly known here as just loading, it is frequency dependent on when your going to get more or less of a gain in dB. When looking at direction, it is hard for a speaker to produce the same of-axis response as a on-axis response. There are however optimal size speakers for given frequencies for the most optimal off-axis response. I believe that it goes tweeters:1-inch midrange:6 to 6.5-inch midbass: 10-inch, woofer:12/15-inch and for subwoofer I think anything 12-18 is close to the same. Currently researching this for my own doors. This link suggests a 1", a 4" an 8" and a sub... http://education.lenardaudio.com/en/05_speakers.html That it what I was remembering. I sad slightly off on the midrange, but everything else was within the given range. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 SO would 1", 6.5", and 8" be so much more different than 1", 4", and 8"? SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 SO would 1", 6.5", and 8" be so much more different than 1", 4", and 8"? Nope, I was giddy that I was just researching this and was able to share a link. Some like to know the principal behind the theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Good, cause im trying to use what I got, not buy more gear. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 24, 2014 Report Share Posted September 24, 2014 SO would 1", 6.5", and 8" be so much more different than 1", 4", and 8"?for an active setup ... You would be seriously lacking in midrange ....Just saying Guys, please learn one thing from me. Mid range is your basic starting point for an audiophile system. Everything revolves around your midrange curve when tuning. This is why my truck excelled over many SQ setups ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted September 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 SO would 1", 6.5", and 8" be so much more different than 1", 4", and 8"?for an active setup ... You would be seriously lacking in midrange ....Just saying Guys, please learn one thing from me. Mid range is your basic starting point for an audiophile system. Everything revolves around your midrange curve when tuning. This is why my truck excelled over many SQ setups ... for an SQ application what would be the best three sizes to pair up. not talking brands here only sizes? should you piece meal out the whole thing individually? I know I have seen ford F-150 with an 8" in the factory location with a slight modification. also I have heard you should match the cone are of the subs with cone area of all your midrange? I was skeptical about that though. for that matter what are the thoughts on a pro audio midrange with a dedicated midbass and a tweeter? (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 8.4.1 8.5 1/4. 1 6.5. 3.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 *** sorry in advance, I've had lots of coffee ***Hotdog, I'm actually doing a bit of a re-wire and speaker placement change in the van right now. And just like Orion said, I'm working with the equipment I have and am not getting any new stuff right now. I've had the honor of hearing CableGuy's Truck (awesome, music the way it is supposed to be, and yes- now that I think about it, a very strong midrange) and michigancapri92's setup in his capri (not his new one in his Edge) and I was blown away- so as far as SQ goes, I listen to them because they've been there, done that- so they have a wealth of knowledge. As it happens with my equipment, I have 1" silk tweets, 4" mids, and 8" woofers. What I'm changing to is keeping the 8"s in the doors crossed over as high as I can get away with (I'm thinking 325, maybe even 400) and then I'm moving my 4"s and tweets right together in the Kicks- as close to the 8"s as possible. This gets them all together and *should* help phasing. What I keep on coming back to is how close the driver's side speakers are when they are on the A-Pillar. (Vehicles are different, but in an Astro, it is right by your face). The distances are all wrong in my application when I try splitting up speaker placement. So the problem becomes how do you fit big enough speakers ALL in the A-Pillar (or up front) to give you strong midbass?? IMO- you can't and still keep any real "stock" appearance. It takes major work to get that strong midbass where it should be (cableguy's truck ftw). So that forces the only real option in my application: to put things in the kick and door. What I do know is that you want things as far FORWARD and OUT as much as possible. Just like michigancapri92 said, door and kick placement gets stuff centered up, but then the soundstage can have the very real tendency to loose depth. This is where I am banking on a bit of Time Alignment and proper speaker phasing help. I may *MAY* have to sneak some tweeters up on the dash. Much like CDT Audio's "Upstage" concept- put some tweets up there, crossed over very high just to see. Something to think about: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_old_telephone_serviceThe OG land based phone lines only really worked over the frequency range of 300hz-3400hz. Why is that? Well, that is where the majority of the program material for the human voice is. Why would they waste at trying to produce subsonics and high frequency when it wasn't really there? Often we forget about what we just assume is always there- the part we take for granted. We get all focused on how low a system can go and how high the tweeters can play, ...but we just assume the midbass will be there. I think Cableguy nailed it when he said everything hinges off of your midbass. Go for the cleanest and strongest midbass you can get, then work to integrate the tweeters, woofers, and subwoofers into that. If the mids are there, you can make the rest fall into line.Thoughts? 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never knows best Posted September 25, 2014 Report Share Posted September 25, 2014 I would test both locations with some sort of temporary enclosure... even if it is just a MDF ring and some blankets stuffed around it to separate the front and rear waves... also consider that the kick pods will have very little air space for the driver... will probably have to be heavily deadened... may even have to vent into adjacent panels/fender to achieve more space... keep in mind that the kick pod is on axis and the door is off axis... this will effect the placement of the accompanying speakers- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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