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Comparing Mainstream Companies to SMD Partner Brands Products Performance First Hand Experiences


Thegrip6589

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I think you get more for your money with companies like soundqubed/Fi/PSI and many others that you can't buy in a typical big box store. I would check out the specs of each brand as far as performance for the type of music you like to listen to.

A sub that is super strong and burp 160db in your car for 15 seconds is probably not going to be what you want in a "daily driver" type of setup. I think each company has its pros and cons and those can be figured out by applying what the sub is designed to do with what you WANT it to do.

Look the manufacturers that are on here and see which ones are being used in what type of setup. Most of the guys on here love bass, got it well what do MOST people listen to? Rap. (some metal) But thats primarily the genre of music so something that is made to be good in the 20-40Hz range do that may not be right if you say listen to jazz or classical.

So the answer to your question is well difficult and requires some more research. I personally love alpine amps and their subs are respectable. I would guess your box is the major limiting factor right now. Use your current setup in say a custom ported box, sealed and maybe a transmission line if you're feeling like smacking you head against the wall. That way you can get the most out of your subs.

Later on if you want more bass or you blow your current subs step up to a custom sub from any of these companies that are endorsed on this forum. Point being if you start seeing names pop up that people are using over and over again it probably speaks to quality and ease of use.

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Name brands come with a long standing reputation whether it be good or bad.

Name brands also have a network of B&M stores so you can walk in buy what you need and walk out the same day and install your gear, as well as warranty to repair or replacement at that store, so if something were to happen you can get taken care of quickly and with someone standing at a desk and not having to rely on emails and unreturned phone calls from internet sales. I am not implying all vendors are like this but there are a few that will take your money and never be heard from again if something goes wrong. The vendors on this site have been here a while and have some damn good product and damn good C.S. to back it up in the event something takes a shit on you.

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The differences I am looking to achieve doing this is: Better power and thermal efficiencies, better sounding and smoother frequency responses, A more durable speaker, excursion capabilities (move more air in general), and finally getting louder!

My current system:

2011 Chevy Cruze LS

Big 3 Upgrade (140amp Alt)

XS Power D3400 Secondary Battery (Isolated)

Knukonceptz Kolossus Flex 0/1 Gauge OFC Wire (Battery & Amp)

Knukonceptz Kolossus Flex 8 Gauge OFC Speaker Wire

Audiocontrol Epicenter Bass Processor

Alpine MRX-M240 Amplifier (CEA Compliant Benched @ 2652watts rms on 2ohm load

2x Alpine SWR-12D4 12" Subwoofers Wired to 4ohm load (Aprox 750 watts rms per sub)

Prefabricated box: Attrend Bbox E12DV (Alpine Recommended)

Factory Radio

The factory radio and the enclosure alone may be enough to choke your system and have poor bass and subpar sound quality.

Also don't know how did you set your gains and if you are using a LOC or what to get the signal to the amp, not sure what are you using for front stage, amp for that as well? likely not... guessing right?

Setup makes or breaks a system, I wouldn't go blame all your stuff that fast. Your subs are used very commonly on here, are entry level but not particularly bad in any way.

I would recommend to learn by optimizing what you have before starting to buy other stuff, if you do want other stuff don't just go and exchange some 1000W subs for other 1000W subs, that won't be enough of an upgrade, furthermore, if you were to get some of the nicer subs and put them in your current box they would probably sound even worse than what you have.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you everyone for your time and input and I apologize for my lack of response but the past few weeks has been hectic. Overall you guys have pretty much hit everything that I have been looking for so I would like to clarify a few things just incase theirs anything else someone might want to add.

First and foremost the box issue is being resolved this week, I have always noticed the subs chocking essentially from a small port area and didn't realize that my box was that small for the type Rs. I just figured it was because the tuning was at 38hz and the speakers want to play lower

As for the factory radio upgrading that is out of the question. The cars computer system runs so many things through the radio that any attempt on my end to add and aftermarket would void my warranty in a heartbeat (The rest of the system is ok being I have friends in the dealership overlook the 0/1 gauge wire runs <_<)

the LOC is being fed a full range signal from the rear speakers and the epicenter processor restores the factory rolloff. so the subs get get 20-80 hz (amps set to cutoff anything higher)

At this time my 4 door speakers and 2 factory tweeters are not amplified, however, I will be adding a Audiocontrol LC7i to sum the factory signal and get myself set up to install a proper 4 channel to power everything and EQ/crossover accordingly.

I did all level matching from the LOC to the processor to the amp via a DMM when I first installed and I have been very conservative to avoid clipped signals.

Sound deadening was something I had considered and dismissed initially but RainStryke has deffinatly got me rethinking this as I hadn't thought about potential loss from below the trunks carpeting, ie wheel well, itself.

It's not that Im looking for reasons to ditch my Alpines but it just seems like they are made out to be mediocre when compared DC Audio's and/or Sundown Audios "Signature" line

(just a comparison as im looking into RE, Skar, DC, FI, Sundown, and a few other brands as well)

Don't get me wrong my system sounds really good in person and any upgrades I pursue are purely because I just love the hobby and naturally WANT more. (and I have 1000 watts of unused power from my amp from not being run at a 2 ohm load B))

Its videos like the DC guys showing an install of 2 level 3 12's in a trailblazer (or similar suv) getting a 150 termlab when those subs are only rated to run off 900 watts. Again I know there is much more to getting a system to excel than just the sub itself (like me neglecting to have a proper sized enclosure) but it still makes me wonder if the brand of the speaker contributes to the night and day difference these other brands reputations seem to have.

Im not expecting much in terms of response since this thread is old at this point but I would like to thank everyone that did take time to offer their advice, but if their is any other things I should consider please feel free to add.

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Aftermarket audio can't void a warranty by the way...

I would find someone with a DD-1 and set all of your levels, might help to improve the overall quality of sound.

 

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Its videos like the DC guys showing an install of 2 level 3 12's in a trailblazer (or similar suv) getting a 150 termlab when those subs are only rated to run off 900 watts. Again I know there is much more to getting a system to excel than just the sub itself (like me neglecting to have a proper sized enclosure) but it still makes me wonder if the brand of the speaker contributes to the night and day difference these other brands reputations seem to have.

That's not a musical box, you won't get the same results at all.

And no the brand of the speaker doesn't contribute to a night and day difference, it's the installation/application.

Alpine Type R's are very good subwoofers for the money.

You said you upgraded your box, to what specifications/for what application?

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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So the answer to your question is well difficult and requires some more research. I personally love alpine amps and their subs are respectable. I would guess your box is the major limiting factor right now. Use your current setup in say a custom ported box, sealed and maybe a transmission line if you're feeling like smacking you head against the wall. That way you can get the most out of your subs.

I would definitely build a new box for $100-200 before I dropped a bunch on new subs. Instead of going enthusiast gear you could try an enthusiast style box first. I can't imagine what 2 type R's on 2400W would sound in a transmission line. It would be huge, but super super loud. They're really not that complicated, give it a try: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1828-quarter-wave-t-line-tutorial-updated/

2008 Subaru WRX STI

K&N Typhoon Intake

Invidia Polished Stainless 3" turbo back with cat

Cobb Accessport

Dyno tune from Kaizen Tuning

320awhp 330ft-lb awtq

MTX 421D Sub amp

American Bass SQ900 Highs/Mids amp

Sundown Audio SD-2 10 D4

JL Audio XR653-CS 3-way Components

3sixty.2

Second Skin Damplifier Pro

Custom fiberglass wheel well enclosure

Transmission Line quasi-floor enclosure

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/13-member-rides-builds-show-off-your-whip-show-off-your-system/

Bill Fitzmaurice TLAH line-array hifi towers

9 Goldwood 4" mids (each)

12 Goldwood 1/2" tweeters (each)

NAD 1020 Preamp

MiniDSP 2x4 Balanced processor

Thorens TD166mkII Turntable

Hafler DH-200 Amplifier

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192638-line-array-hifi-tower-build/

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I would definitely build a new box for $100-200 before I dropped a bunch on new subs. Instead of going enthusiast gear you could try an enthusiast style box first. I can't imagine what 2 type R's on 2400W would sound in a transmission line. It would be huge, but super super loud. They're really not that complicated, give it a try: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1828-quarter-wave-t-line-tutorial-updated/

Hahaha :rofl: as much as I would love to give the t-line a try and hear what the box is capable of in person for my application there is absolutely no way I could fit a box that big in my cruze's trunk (I still need "some" space for my girlfriend and her kids bags or else I would have considered it an option)

I am kind of dumbfounded at how many responces pointed directly to ditching the prefab and going custom and quite honestly I feel kind of dumb/ignorant that I bought a box based on Atrend and Alpine's partnership claiming their boxes were made for one another. Looking my Type Rs specs and T/S parameters up again and realizing that I am without a doubt running my subs in a box that's too small and tuned to 38-40hz (This was my first ported box install and with my experience using it I've decided that that tuning is just bad for what I want out of a box. My good friend happens to be a master carpender and after speaking with him briefly earlier he's agreed to help me go big and do a custom box setup specific to my trunk that will incorporate an amp rack and allow for a clean fiberglass finish. Ultimately this in itself would be a summertime project so this isn't going to get my box issue fixed now.

Being I want to address this now I am down to two options to get my subs in a better box faster.

*I am looking for a box that can play low and get loud in the process. I listen to Rap, Rock, Metal, Electronic [House, Dubstep, and Trap] *

The first option would be pay one of the local car audio shops around me to build me a custom box. The downside to this is out of the 5 places I've called the price for their service is ridiculous. ($600 for a simple non carpeted sealed enclosure and a price range of 800-1400 for a dual ported box make out of 3/4" MDF with 1" available for an upcharge) This route is not completely out of the question but in all honesy it seems ridiculous and really hard to justify spending that type of money for a box that I would want to scrap when I get into my own custom work.

This brings out the second option and my personal preference. RainStryke had linked a custom box on ebay that surprisingly measures up perfectly to meet my trunks space requirements. After searching around I had managed to find that exact box on mobilesoundworks. Can anyone offer any advice on this enclosure? If this box gets the thumbs up from you guys I will be placing the order before tomorrows business day end.

Link: http://www.mobilesoundworks.com/product_p/4_0-msw-212-round-box.htm

(If link does not work or is not allowed I apologize Ill include the specs below)

Dual 12" custom slot-ported enclosure * Single Chamber design * 4.0ft^3 slot-port tuned @32Hz * Solid MDF construction *

1-1/4" Reinforced MDF front baffle * Carpeted * Gold Plated binding post terminals * (2) 11" round woofer cutouts

Box Volume (net. int.): 4.0 Cubic Feet * 32Hz Tuning * Box weight: 51 lbs * Dimensions (W x H x D): 33" x 16-1/2" x 21"

Just for reference here is the specs on my current pre-fab

Atrend Bbox E12DV (Dual Vent Divided Box)

https://atrendusa.com/12-dual-vented-divided

[Width] 32" x [Height] 13.75" x [Depth] 17"

Gross Cubic Feet: 1.75 - Net Cubic Feet: 1.35 - Tuning Frequency 38Hz

Thanks for the continued help and support and sorry for the length of my posts.... I am just trying to be as thorough as possible

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So the answer to your question is well difficult and requires some more research. I personally love alpine amps and their subs are respectable. I would guess your box is the major limiting factor right now. Use your current setup in say a custom ported box, sealed and maybe a transmission line if you're feeling like smacking you head against the wall. That way you can get the most out of your subs.

I would definitely build a new box for $100-200 before I dropped a bunch on new subs. Instead of going enthusiast gear you could try an enthusiast style box first. I can't imagine what 2 type R's on 2400W would sound in a transmission line. It would be huge, but super super loud. They're really not that complicated, give it a try: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1828-quarter-wave-t-line-tutorial-updated/

They would sound like they ripping to shreds, that's how they would sound like on 2400W in a Tline.

To the OP:

A new box only costs about 60-80 dollar in materials if you make it out of MDF.

Since your friend is a master carpenter, he could easily cut up the pieces, route a few holes and it would only take him less then 1 hour after you supplied him measurements.

And you could glue it together and there you go.

That box from mobileaudio is a bit on the small side for those woofers on that amount of power. (and too little port area judging by the pictures.)

But it's already quite a bit better then the other box you have.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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