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Anyone have any experience with panel bond adhesives such as lord fusor or 3m 8115? I'm looking for real world experience and workability in tight spaces etc. reason I'm asking is I have a hump under the one side of my wall and it's totally throwing off my ability to line up my battery rack and I'm now debating the removal of the sheet metal and then tacking In a new piece of sheet metal to flatten the hump down. There is no reason for it to be there and it's just a single piece of sheet metal. But I can't hammer it flat either. I'd have it welded but mdf and sparks aren't really a good combo plus the gas tank is about 8 inches above the tank. If I can cut it out and panel bond it back in place to seal water leaks I'd be happy.

This is not a Load bearing spot on the floor either

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Would using rtv silicone not be a good option for you?

I only say that cause it does what you need minus the bonding of the piece but you could use a mechanical fastener to do that.

I know that when you put rtv on something clean it is a total pita to remove the shit after it has dried.

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Next time I'm home I'll check with the neighbor.

He rebuilds model ts but he can't weld, so he uses a 3m panel bond to re-adhere the body panels after he disassembles the car.

I know its a 2 part that takes a special gun. He did show me a panel that he had used that on and its strong... really strong

1349713160_rte.png
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I have used Fusor 108(?) to do a patch panel on my older VW. Had to get the gun that dispense the stuff. Once that stuff bonds and dries it's strong as all hell. Just needed a few screws to keep the panel tight while it dried. It was a pretty quick dry time too.

If it's worth building, it's worth over building.

image_zps27zlqdnx.jpg

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TV would probably work by I don't want it to fail. If it does fail I'll have to pull a ton of stuff or to fix it and I'm not playing that game. I was actually all set to cut and weld then realized I'd have to drop the full tank and I'm not playing that shit either

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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TV would probably work by I don't want it to fail. If it does fail I'll have to pull a ton of stuff or to fix it and I'm not playing that game. I was actually all set to cut and weld then realized I'd have to drop the full tank and I'm not playing that shit either

Ok this may seem ghetto but it works. Used it on my blazer when the parts store didn't have the gasket I needed in stock.

Felpro makes the create your own gasket sheets. About 6$ combine with rtv and a mechanical fastener and I would think you wouldn't have any issues. Depending on the size of the panel of course.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/fel-pro-gasket-sheets

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N8, I used 3M panel bond on bracing for my cab and it's really badass stuff. I have many auto body guys in my family that suggested using it and I'm VERY happy I did. I've been beating the he'll out of it and there are no signs of stress anywhere(i check regularly).

Fickling used some on his subwoofer baskets in that beast van of his and it worked well for his application too. Smoove here on the forum used done with success also.

What you may need is SEAM sealer and not panel bond, although whichever you choose I'm sure would work. I used 3M:

20150213_125852.jpg

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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The RTV shouldn't fail you, not for sealing that area up from leaks. We use it to keep moisture from getting into the radomes for the antennas that require them. The stuff I used the other day on my radome didn't take long to start getting tacky and set. I'll try to get the brand name of it tomorrow when I get back to the ship.

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Fusor is close to what manufacturers use but the 3m is just as good

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