Dangers with going "too big" on Big 3?

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

The knu konceptz wire you are looking at is rated at 700 amps @20' for the 4/0

And 375 amps @20' for the 1/0

Two runs of the 1/0 equals 750 amps of current carrying capability.

1/0 is also easier to work with.

Multiple runs can look just as clean,

You're gonna have a bunch of wires to deal with anyways so don't get hung up on only having one wire because it's not gonna happen.

Do yourself a favor and go with 1/0.

[06RTCharger]

The knu konceptz wire you are looking at is rated at 700 amps @20' for the 4/0

And 375 amps @20' for the 1/0

Two runs of the 1/0 equals 750 amps of current carrying capability.

1/0 is also easier to work with.

Multiple runs can look just as clean,

You're gonna have a bunch of wires to deal with anyways so don't get hung up on only having one wire because it's not gonna happen.

Do yourself a favor and go with 1/0.

I was just checkin out the price on those two. Cost of just the wire would be slightly more per foot. 11 cents more per foot with the two runs 1/0. But looking at the wire accessories like terminals and stuff, the 4/0 accesories cost more. Cost vs uniqueness.....ive never even seen 4/0 before. Didnt know it went above 1/0 for car audio until i seen that 8/0 on SMD's youtube.

[WalledSonic]

Check out "Royal Weld Cable" at weld supply outlets too. Or google it if you arent near a weld supply store. Its OFC cable with a tough jacket that is much cheaper than audio brands. If its good enough for welders in industrial-grade applications, its good enough for my car. They also carry various sizes, with all the performance specs listed.

If you know anyone that does wiring installations for large electric equipment, there are other brands like Champlain that make high voltage, high strand, OFC cable. Although, this is more expensive so I only recommend the high voltage cable if you have a buddy with access to a spool, if ya know what I mean.

All the ampacity 'charts' you find online for 12V cable all have different values for ampacity bc the ampacity of a particular cable is based on the resistance (strand count, OFC vs CCA, length of cable-run, etc) and the allowable temperature rise of the cable (AKA the quality of the outer jacket insulation). This is why you are best off determining the ampacity from the manufacturer's information on the specific cable you are looking at.

If you end up using raw OFC bus bar, the ampacity is again based on the resistance and temperature rise of the particular cross section of bar you are looking at. For instance, a 1/2" x 2" cross section copper bar handles about a 1000A at a 30 degree C temperature rise, but 1550A at a 65 degree C temperature rise. If instead you needed 1000A of current but didnt want to bus a huge 1/2" x 2" bar, a 1/2" x 1" bar will work, but with a 65 degree C temperature rise. It depends on what kinda temperatures you want to have at your battery. www dot copper.org/applications/electrical/busbar/bus_table1.html

I digress. As someone said earlier, the only thing you hurt is your wallet. Space and temperature are the other factors.

[06RTCharger]

Those toolmaker wire accessories look awesome. Thanks for that suggestion Broke_Audio_Addict, much appreciated. Could you also help me with fuse locations on wires. Just within the big 4 upgrade, where are fuses needed? Not including any amp fuses or fuse ratings or anything. But where is it recommended to fuse between the alternator, battery and power distribution block input terminal?

[06RTCharger]

Check out "Royal Weld Cable" at weld supply outlets too. Or google it if you arent near a weld supply store. Its OFC cable with a tough jacket that is much cheaper than audio brands. If its good enough for welders in industrial-grade applications, its good enough for my car. They also carry various sizes, with all the performance specs listed.

If you know anyone that does wiring installations for large electric equipment, there are other brands like Champlain that make high voltage, high strand, OFC cable. Although, this is more expensive so I only recommend the high voltage cable if you have a buddy with access to a spool, if ya know what I mean.

All the ampacity 'charts' you find online for 12V cable all have different values for ampacity bc the ampacity of a particular cable is based on the resistance (strand count, OFC vs CCA, length of cable-run, etc) and the allowable temperature rise of the cable (AKA the quality of the outer jacket insulation). This is why you are best off determining the ampacity from the manufacturer's information on the specific cable you are looking at.

If you end up using raw OFC bus bar, the ampacity is again based on the resistance and temperature rise of the particular cross section of bar you are looking at. For instance, a 1/2" x 2" cross section copper bar handles about a 1000A at a 30 degree C temperature rise, but 1550A at a 65 degree C temperature rise. If instead you needed 1000A of current but didnt want to bus a huge 1/2" x 2" bar, a 1/2" x 1" bar will work, but with a 65 degree C temperature rise. It depends on what kinda temperatures you want to have at your battery. www dot copper.org/applications/electrical/busbar/bus_table1.html

I digress. As someone said earlier, the only thing you hurt is your wallet. Space and temperature are the other factors.

Thanks for the recommendation. Yah i like charts of general guidelines tho, they help me narrow my options down, then i can check my specific choices specs. I literally just found out what a bus bar is when i was checking droppinhz a couple mins ago. Is that just another word for a distribution block? Its just called a bar becuase of its shape? Is there a benefit to a bar over a block, if inputs and outputs were equal?

[Smoove]

Dangers with going "too big" on Big 3?

Sucking $ out of your wallet.

There are so many people who dont belieive this

[06RTCharger]

Dangers with going "too big" on Big 3?

Sucking $ out of your wallet.

There are so many people who dont belieive this

I approached car audio knowing its gonna cost alot, even so much as to say i can only buy sections of the build at a time. Im not planning on going from complete stock to full blown system over the weekend, not even within a couple months. This is gonna take me maybe a year or even a lil more. So far all i have ordered and received is all the deadener, and a HO alternator. Im taking this one step at time, next step big3-4.

[_paralyzed_]

Check out "Royal Weld Cable" at weld supply outlets too. Or google it if you arent near a weld supply store. Its OFC cable with a tough jacket that is much cheaper than audio brands. If its good enough for welders in industrial-grade applications, its good enough for my car. They also carry various sizes, with all the performance specs listed.

If you know anyone that does wiring installations for large electric equipment, there are other brands like Champlain that make high voltage, high strand, OFC cable. Although, this is more expensive so I only recommend the high voltage cable if you have a buddy with access to a spool, if ya know what I mean.

All the ampacity 'charts' you find online for 12V cable all have different values for ampacity bc the ampacity of a particular cable is based on the resistance (strand count, OFC vs CCA, length of cable-run, etc) and the allowable temperature rise of the cable (AKA the quality of the outer jacket insulation). This is why you are best off determining the ampacity from the manufacturer's information on the specific cable you are looking at.

If you end up using raw OFC bus bar, the ampacity is again based on the resistance and temperature rise of the particular cross section of bar you are looking at. For instance, a 1/2" x 2" cross section copper bar handles about a 1000A at a 30 degree C temperature rise, but 1550A at a 65 degree C temperature rise. If instead you needed 1000A of current but didnt want to bus a huge 1/2" x 2" bar, a 1/2" x 1" bar will work, but with a 65 degree C temperature rise. It depends on what kinda temperatures you want to have at your battery. www dot copper.org/applications/electrical/busbar/bus_table1.html

I digress. As someone said earlier, the only thing you hurt is your wallet. Space and temperature are the other factors.

Thanks for the recommendation. Yah i like charts of general guidelines tho, they help me narrow my options down, then i can check my specific choices specs. I literally just found out what a bus bar is when i was checking droppinhz a couple mins ago. Is that just another word for a distribution block? Its just called a bar becuase of its shape? Is there a benefit to a bar over a block, if inputs and outputs were equal?

A buss bar joins multiple batteries together. Since they are large people often just use the buss bars as there distribution block.

[06RTCharger]

Check out "Royal Weld Cable" at weld supply outlets too. Or google it if you arent near a weld supply store. Its OFC cable with a tough jacket that is much cheaper than audio brands. If its good enough for welders in industrial-grade applications, its good enough for my car. They also carry various sizes, with all the performance specs listed.

If you know anyone that does wiring installations for large electric equipment, there are other brands like Champlain that make high voltage, high strand, OFC cable. Although, this is more expensive so I only recommend the high voltage cable if you have a buddy with access to a spool, if ya know what I mean.

All the ampacity 'charts' you find online for 12V cable all have different values for ampacity bc the ampacity of a particular cable is based on the resistance (strand count, OFC vs CCA, length of cable-run, etc) and the allowable temperature rise of the cable (AKA the quality of the outer jacket insulation). This is why you are best off determining the ampacity from the manufacturer's information on the specific cable you are looking at.

If you end up using raw OFC bus bar, the ampacity is again based on the resistance and temperature rise of the particular cross section of bar you are looking at. For instance, a 1/2" x 2" cross section copper bar handles about a 1000A at a 30 degree C temperature rise, but 1550A at a 65 degree C temperature rise. If instead you needed 1000A of current but didnt want to bus a huge 1/2" x 2" bar, a 1/2" x 1" bar will work, but with a 65 degree C temperature rise. It depends on what kinda temperatures you want to have at your battery. www dot copper.org/applications/electrical/busbar/bus_table1.html

I digress. As someone said earlier, the only thing you hurt is your wallet. Space and temperature are the other factors.

Thanks for the recommendation. Yah i like charts of general guidelines tho, they help me narrow my options down, then i can check my specific choices specs. I literally just found out what a bus bar is when i was checking droppinhz a couple mins ago. Is that just another word for a distribution block? Its just called a bar becuase of its shape? Is there a benefit to a bar over a block, if inputs and outputs were equal?

A buss bar joins multiple batteries together. Since they are large people often just use the buss bars as there distribution block.

Ok cool, so no real power advantage to a bar over a dist block. Just pretty much used for the available space on the bar, like an over sized dist block.