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Triticum Agricolam

Implementing Bracing

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love it!!! honestly speaking,i´m having major issues with my wall, it has threaded rods and 2x4s inside the sealed chamber and a few 2" poles on the ported chamber, i was thinking about ditching all that and maybe use the shelf braced panel idea wth some iron angles????? opinions? or maybe using a bunch of wood braces instead of the angles

Walls can be tough to brace due to their size. Bracing techniques that work well with smaller boxes aren't always practical with wall sized stuff.

I assume everything is at least two layers thick?

2x4's and threaded rods can work fine, as long as you use enough of them and they are well placed. The goal is to reduced unsupported spans. I'm a woodworker at heart so I would make the bracing out of wood if it were me. What I've done in the past with boxes that size is to use a lot of triangle corner braces around the perimeter of the box and then use a couple large window braces towards the middle of the enclosure. You want to be care to arrange them so they don't restrict any airflow through the port. Off of the large window braces you can put more corner braces to help spread out the forces.

With any brace that is going to have greater than a 12" unsupported span (like large window braces) I'll make them out of double thickness material.

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"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
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Love the testing work you're doing Triticum :good:

I'm running a Zv4 10" d2 on a scv2k in this enclosure built with 1" mdf. Would have adding bracing done me any good?

zv410%20box_zpsydgelrpr.jpg

Sub is pointing upwards (didn't tick that box off)

I didn't bother with any as my thought was that there is no span long/wide enough that would benefit much if at all from it.

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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I like to error on the side of caution so I would have added a brace or two, but with the dimensions of your box, and the thickness of the material you are probably OK. In your case I most likely would have used a couple dowels, one on either side of the sub cutout and that would have been it.

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"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Amazing write up, thanks for taking the time to do this. I know a lot of people come to this forum looking for suggestions and may have already purchased or used a prefab but this helps give them more info on if/when they are ready to build a custom enclosure on their own which we always tend to suggest due to performance but so many I feel think it's all over their head building their own enclosure, this definitely helps, so thanks!

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I like to error on the side of caution so I would have added a brace or two, but with the dimensions of your box, and the thickness of the material you are probably OK. In your case I most likely would have used a couple dowels, one on either side of the sub cutout and that would have been it.

I was contemplating doing that when i was building it using four pieces at the 2,4,8 & 10 o'clock positions around the sub about an inch or two away from it.

If i get rid of the removable reverse flush mount baffle i have the sub in i may still do it, just gotta flip the box over and lay the baffle on the bottom and pop a few holes in both at the same time to keep the holes lined up.

It (baffle) has a noticeable air leak at higher volumes so it something i should take care of i suppose.

Thank you for the reply and input :good:

edit - I just tried it out in torres and added the volume that four pieces of 1" doweling from top to bottomand it would increase the displacement by 0.022ft3 and i'd just have to add another inch of port and i still get 16.13in2/ft3 port area with 1.49 ft3 net volume and that makes the tune 31.95hz

Edited by Markous

'07 Ford Ranger - Soundman SS | iStreamer | AudioControl | Sundown Audio | Stereo Integrity | Mechman | Northstar

On 5/21/2015 at 7:07 PM, boom50cal said:

of course he gives no fucks. it's a ford ranger.

only bad mother fuckers drive ford rangers

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love it!!! honestly speaking,i´m having major issues with my wall, it has threaded rods and 2x4s inside the sealed chamber and a few 2" poles on the ported chamber, i was thinking about ditching all that and maybe use the shelf braced panel idea wth some iron angles????? opinions? or maybe using a bunch of wood braces instead of the angles

Walls can be tough to brace due to their size. Bracing techniques that work well with smaller boxes aren't always practical with wall sized stuff.

I assume everything is at least two layers thick?

2x4's and threaded rods can work fine, as long as you use enough of them and they are well placed. The goal is to reduced unsupported spans. I'm a woodworker at heart so I would make the bracing out of wood if it were me. What I've done in the past with boxes that size is to use a lot of triangle corner braces around the perimeter of the box and then use a couple large window braces towards the middle of the enclosure. You want to be care to arrange them so they don't restrict any airflow through the port. Off of the large window braces you can put more corner braces to help spread out the forces.

With any brace that is going to have greater than a 12" unsupported span (like large window braces) I'll make them out of double thickness material.

yes it´s double layer everywhere, I fucking hate the bracing i did, didnt have the time to build it properly at the beginning and now im paying the price!

20150121_183054.jpg

20140427_223125.jpg


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Used Triticum's information to build my internal bracing, which resides right behind the subs. Donut brace mixed with window brace. Dual 13-ply birch glued and screwed. I am also concerned with weight, so I removed as much material as possible while still maintaining ~2" thickness in the X and Y directions. The front-to-back thickness is 1.5".

IMG_5628.jpg

Edited by mcanderson0
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Would you brace this little box for an 8" dc m3-8? I still have time to do it before the top goes on but just wanted to know if bracing is needed or if its only for bigger boxes with bigger heaver subs? Thanks man

Its 11.5 H 26 w 10.5 D sub up port up. Here is a pic of the inside. The box is 3/4" real Baltic birch and the bottom is 3/4 mdf. The bottom and back panels along with the back side of the port is all screwed and glued. The front is glued and 1/ 14" finish nails. The top is one piece of 3/4" Baltic then I will add a piece of 1/2" Baltic birch as an extra baffle but the cut out on the 1/2" will be to outside diam of the sub. And I will be adding a 1/2" 10x12" polycarbonate window on the top next to the sub rabbited into the 3/4 and the 1/2" over the top to seal the edges.

20161205_113856_zps4yefbvaq.jpg

20161205_115652_zpsj5xlzdfh.jpg

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Used Triticum's information to build my internal bracing, which resides right behind the subs. Donut brace mixed with window brace. Dual 13-ply birch glued and screwed. I am also concerned with weight, so I removed as much material as possible while still maintaining ~2" thickness in the X and Y directions. The front-to-back thickness is 1.5".

That braces looks excellent, very nice work!

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"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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