Solderless connection/connectors=SQ?

[Knocker]

How about this.

Purchase a few feet of pure OFC copper wire the thickness of your headunit wires and cut it into four pieces. Crimp two of them together using the copper sleeve you like from Lowes. Then properly solder the other two wires together using good electrical solder. Test them yourself and see if you can measure any difference in resistance. That way you can find out the truth for yourself so you can move on to the next step.

[Kyblack76]

Holy shit...........

[Jessica]

like i said, i twist my wires together and tape them up. no fucks given, never have burned a car down, never had a short, never had a disconnect. It's not like im twisting 1/0 together. Hate me if you like, I wouldnt do it to someone elses build but for my own, yep.

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

The solider won't have any more resistance than the wire itself. You are all hung up on something someone told you about conductance which is not resistance. Conductance has to do with the amount of free electrons and the speed of electricity. The surface area of a soldered connection is high because the solider surrounds every strand. This is a good thing. It means the connection is better and will carry more current and have less voltage drop under power. Your idea of crimping the big wires with copper tubing is a bigger problem than the solider vs crimp "problem" that you have for the smaller wires.

[Kyblack76]

Im lost as fuck.

Are you worried about wiring the deck speaker out puts to drivers? Nothing says PURE SQ like using deck power.

If your tripping on feeding the deck with HOT, TURN ON, and GROUND. ... well what the hell does that have to do with anything SQ wise.... or anything else for that matter???

Im lost as hell, like i am on most of your posts.

[jk13]

like i said, i twist my wires together and tape them up. no fucks given, never have burned a car down, never had a short, never had a disconnect. It's not like im twisting 1/0 together. Hate me if you like, I wouldnt do it to someone elses build but for my own, yep.

I do similar, but I use my crimper on the copper wires themselves to turn them into their own crimped connection. Strip about 1.5 inch of both wires (16awg), hold the two ends of insulation together with one thumb and forefinger and twist the copper together, straighten the insulated wires so it's a continuous line, wrap the twisted copper around the 'wire center' to create a small ball, and then crimp. Not adding any additional dissimilar metals or pollutants, not taking away the flexibility of the wire (which is why wire strands break away from solder joints), no possibility of a bad crimp or cold solder.

I've never had a connection done this way fail, and they last longer without corroding or breaking due to being brittle. Been a pro installer since 1994 so I've done thousands of all three types of connections.

This has nothing to do with conductance or whatever you might think SQ is or any of the questions posed here, but it's the most reliable connection method I've found here in the rust belt. Copper to copper crimped to make it's own unmolested connection.

[audiofanaticz]

Better not use speakers that solder the tinsel wires to the lead-out wires of the voice coil and that also solder the other side of the tinsel wires to the terminals because that is not SQ.

Oh wait, I guess you wont be running any speakers in your SQ install then since EVERY speaker is made this way... LOL

[audiofanaticz]

Lineman splice..

http://www.howtogeek.com/107238/how-to-splice-wires-to-nasas-standards/
If its good enough for Nasa, its more than adequate for your car stereo...
Its all I ever do when I solder small gauge wires, but I will admit I never pre-tin the wires because it makes it a pita to twist the wires tightly once tinned.
After all its not like we are soldering tiny gauge wires like phone lines which it was created for which are easily able to be twisted once tinned.
Besides solder always flows there anyways.

[DLHgn]

Lineman splice..

http://www.howtogeek.com/107238/how-to-splice-wires-to-nasas-standards/

If its good enough for Nasa, its more than adequate for your car stereo...

Its all I ever do when I solder small gauge wires, but I will admit I never pre-tin the wires because it makes it a pita to twist the wires tightly once tinned.

After all its not like we are soldering tiny gauge wires like phone lines which it was created for which are easily able to be twisted once tinned.

Besides solder always flows there anyways.

Those are what I did for my camera project minus the solder. Worked just fine for me (besides my data being wonk at first).

[Swordlordboy1234]

Thats basically what I do. Is similar to that lineman splice technique.. then heat the wires up really hot with a tinned solder tip. Then melt into the tip and slowly work into melting directly into the wire.