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Need Help installing new stuff, Much appreciated 


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I need some help as I am installing some stuff into my 2012 Mazda 6 i sport.  I have a double din, and 2 amps.  The issue is I had 2 renegade amps installed and only needed to run a true 4awg wire to a block and then to the 2 amps. well those were not cutting it so i went and got a MB quart 800.4 for my door speakers and a Rockford T1500dbCP amp going to a JL audio 13w7 sub.    My big issue is my alternator puts out only 90 amps and i cant find a single place that will sell a HO alternator that is a drop fit into my mazda 6 and I didnt want to have to mod anything to get it to fit.   Can I keep the same stock alternator if I did the Big 3, and got a spare battery for the trunk? I am only asking this because I would figure from what I have read that the Big 3 and battery would be the very very minimum Ill need to push both new amps i have now, specially because i seen people saying they should have a battery for an RF 1500bdCP only and i have that plus the MB Quart 800.4 and a double din HU.     

I would ask about a cap but from what i have read that wont help much anyways because they that just puts even more of a drain on my alternator when I cant upgrade that anyway(dont really want to unless I have too and have no choice).

here is what I was thinking about buying to try but figured i would ask first and buy once....   http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html          and this         http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86030_Belva-BBG3KT.html

 

Thanks for the help in advance, its much appreciated.  

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The battery will help, but with that small of an alt, it might not be much. the alt will have to recharge the battery(s) after it's used for starting the car, as well as recharge them every time you drop into the battery resting voltage because the alt can't supply the demand of current needed for the car and the aftermarket electronics.

what alt companies have you looked into? Maybe we can suggest a couple whom you did not inquire with yet.

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Looks like you'll have to contact companies directly or fill out their online quotes. Only ones i could find that are ready to order is from Powerbastards or Qualitypower, they have one that they say will fit direct replacement. BUT do some research on what other people  have said about those brand of alts. You might wanna take time to talk with other well known companies and maybe they can build u one. 

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thanks for those companies,  I am going to call them today and see what i can get to drop in.  I really dont mind upgrading the alternator, in fact I really want to upgrade it. I just didnt want to mod anything and wanted to get one that dropped right in.  thanks for the info.  

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so I was able to find one at Qualitypower which says it bolts right in which is what i was looking for.  It is $400 bucks but i guess that is the price ill have to pay to have to run the amps I have.  So i guess my last question is if i get this alternator will I still have to add a 2nd battery in the rear.  I will be doing the big 3 no matter what which I would assume is 100% needed after upgrading to a bigger HO Alt and the amps ill be using. 

 

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_243/Mazda-6.htm

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you should check with Singer, Mechman, DC Power Inc, US Alts, & JS Ultimate if you haven't yet. Those are other known good alt makers

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Yah man, thats what i was saying, both those companies i listed have one that bolts right in without modifications. BUT i said u should read some reviews of those companies alternators to be sure before u buy. I see mixed reviews on those two alternator companies. Its up to u to take the risk.

I would really suggest u atleast contact one of the proven companies and see if they can make one. Like the companies reedal just listed. 

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I don't think you really need an HO alt for those 2 amps. But be careful, I'm not an expert !

Try to fit a group 34 AGM battery under the hood, another batt in the trunk (an AGM gropu 31), and do the Big3 in 0 Ga. You should be good to go !

Then check your voltage with an in-dash voltmeter. If you dig too low (under 12 v) regularly, you will need another upgrade (bigger alt, another batt,... ?)

 

 

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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Let me ask you all this.  If I get an HO alternator will I need a battery in the trunk either way? because if thats the case wouldn't it be smarter to try the advice above and see if getting a brand new 34 AGM battery under the hood and a AMG 31 battery for the trunk first and see if that works before getting the HO alternator ??  Of course I would be doing the Big 3 regardless.    OR is the HO alternator something I cant avoid getting.      

Just FYI my car doesnt have heated seats, or anything that pulls a ton or power besides of course the Heat/AC and the indash Double Din HU. other then that its really just the lights and normal stuff.   Just wanted to add that in just in case that plays a factor in someone advice.  Also I dont think Ill be pushing the T1500dbCP amp to the max, I only have 1 JL Audio 13W7 sub and the birth sheet for the amp is 1214@4ohms and 1690@2ohms. I will be running my sub @ 3ohms so right in the middle.   again not sure if that matters

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