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Nice build man! Do you plan on sealing the subs off firing forward? Would definitely help with your rattles, and gain a little in the dbs.

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25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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On 6/3/2018 at 4:04 PM, Joshdashef said:

I installed my volt meters today. Both the Stinger and Blue Seas volt meters are pretty sweet for the price. Now if I had even more put into this build I would have pony'd up some more cash for a VM-1 and others but for a daily system I think having a digital and analog variant is sweet. I have a toggle switch for turning on the digital and backlight of the Blue Seas one so when I am driving I can always know my voltage at a glance and when I'm parked I can see a more accurate reading from the Blue Seas analog meter. 

One thing I will state is that for looks I opted to hook these into my distro block and fuse there rather than some other place and hook directly into my amps. 

Now for dem pics

I soldered on after crimping these connections because I could. I am no expert but I know the basics of soldering, so this worked out pretty good. Only mistake I made was with the switch - I should have just used crimps and not solder because it melted some of the plastic... might end up needing a new switch later if this one ever has its prongs fall out lol

Back side

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o4_540.jpg

How I wired

Because there are basically +/- posts on the back of the Blue Seas Meter I used that to get my 12v constant for my switch and Stinger Meter. I also soldered the Blue Seas yellow ground (backlight) wire to the negative crimped and soldered connection for the Stinger. Next I soldered my Blue Seas red 12v constant (backlight) wire to the blue remote wire of the Stinger, connecting those two together on the upper blade of the switch. Finally I connected a scrap wire 16 ga (same I used to make the positive run from the distro to center console) from the positive Blue crimp and soldered connection to the other blade on the switch. I also found a ground and tested it with my dmm and then made a jumper with crimps and soldered blue connectors on either side (16 ga wire). 

Diagram  (Website Used: https://www.draw.io/)

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o8_r1_400.jpg

Pics of install

Car off

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o2_400.jpgtumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o7_400.jpg

Running

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o3_400.jpgtumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o1_400.jpg

LEDs (RGB) not just blue

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o5_540.jpg

Distro Block

tumblr_p9ryoyRAuA1xsodn1o6_540.jpg

 

Wow those volt meters are NICE the one that looks like the meters on a old macintosh amp or something lol. 

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On 6/26/2018 at 10:39 AM, Joshdashef said:

Rattle update: 

Turns out to be because of a short cut I have been doing to make the door cards easier to take off.

The handles each have a screw and a center pop clip but I never re-installed the clips so the handles have been rattling whenever the volume goes past 50s. My fix was to take the door cards off and put a penny to quarter sized piece of the damp rope and smoosh it in with my finger. Now no more rattles :D besides the one in my rear...

I found that i get a pretty bad rattle coming from my side mirrors. Havent addressed it yet but it seems that whatever the actual mirrorglass is mounted to inside the housing, the mirros rattling against it. When i press the mirror and hold it still the rattle is gone so i know its rattling. Check that out on urs too, might find another one to eliminate. 

Love the clean build man, super jealous of how fast ur gettin it done lol. 

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13 hours ago, 06RTCharger said:

Wow those volt meters are NICE the one that looks like the meters on a old macintosh amp or something lol. 

Yeah I like the Stinger for quick readings and the blue seas one for if I'm really wanting to see any dips in voltage. Pretty good alternative to the 80$ SMD ones


My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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13 hours ago, 06RTCharger said:

I found that i get a pretty bad rattle coming from my side mirrors. Havent addressed it yet but it seems that whatever the actual mirrorglass is mounted to inside the housing, the mirros rattling against it. When i press the mirror and hold it still the rattle is gone so i know its rattling. Check that out on urs too, might find another one to eliminate. 

Love the clean build man, super jealous of how fast ur gettin it done lol. 

Thanks man, and I will check my side mirrors out. I didn't even think about those as possible places to rattle.

Only thing left to do is take everything out and carpet it up and keep sound deadening my tin can of a car!


My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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17 hours ago, Hellbilly429 said:

Nice build man! Do you plan on sealing the subs off firing forward? Would definitely help with your rattles, and gain a little in the dbs.

I thought about sealing off the subs but decided not to. If I was trying to compete I most definitely would seal off the subs and move the box up in the trunk and mount the amps / batts behind the box but for a daily rig I thought the cooling would be better with the amps in front of the subs. Still thinking about putting some fans for circulation in the trunk but not sure yet. So far the amps stay cool with the back down except for the 4 channel gets pretty warm to the touch. I've just been using foam / damp rope / deadening to deal with the rattles one at a time.

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My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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I had my sub sealed off in my old Cobalt, amps in front of the sub, and it knocked down trunk rattle (trunk was deadened with Second Skin) and audibly was louder in the 30-below hz range.

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25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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1 hour ago, Hellbilly429 said:

I had my sub sealed off in my old Cobalt, amps in front of the sub, and it knocked down trunk rattle (trunk was deadened with Second Skin) and audibly was louder in the 30-below hz range.

How'd you manage to seal it off with the amps in front? 

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1

My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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Sub all the way to the back of the trunk firing forward, amps in front of the sub.

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1

25d9cf71-fff8-4b67-a8f5-28c80d5ea859_zps7d3fe7f6-90c4-4939-b709-43f0e5812212_zps

2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress)

NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors)
Stinger FAST Rings

Stock Electrical

SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers
Stock rear speakers

MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp
Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp
DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm
Box In Design Stage
Stock Radio
My Build Log

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13 minutes ago, Hellbilly429 said:

Sub all the way to the back of the trunk firing forward, amps in front of the sub.

what supplies did you use? expanding foam? some solid material trimmed to fit like abs with tape etc? 

Did you seal off the rear trunk lid where normally rear 6.5 factory speakers would go in my case?

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1

My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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