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buy a bigger amp the liitle bit of added power of a 1200 watt amp at .5 ohms is not worth the current draw you will face a bigger amp at 1 ohm will most likly pull less current and give ya more power

Here's how this works around here... I run .5 daily but will tell everyone else not to do it. Why? Because I, and everyone else who runs that knows there is a risk of blowing something and if it happens, we don't get pissed because we took a gamble and lost. But when someone else asks, we all say NO because there is a chance it can fail on you. We don't want to tell you to do something that can and will screw up you equipment. Here's my advice Do you want a reliable daily system? Yes - Wire to 1 and your amp will thank you No - Wire to .5, then enjoy the possibility of blowing the amp as well as a shit ton of draw on your electrical for not much gain Just remember... It wasn't all too long ago that wiring to 1 ohm was a new and scary thing

Full tilt I only drop to 14V while driving and my lights never dim. It might have something to do with my stock 155A alt, 1 run of +/- 1/0, and 2 spare batteries tho.

cant rape the willing adam

yep.... im gonna get loaded, and play some Mw3,.. on the PS, if your game...

playing too low, might be unloading on making some mechanical noise from loss of cone control. And if it is the last note of put on in decafs, it is ~24hz. could be a combination of many things like port area, tuning, filters on the amp, etc. (i think it is mainly port though). i can play 24 full tilt all day long but my port is like 11 per cube. (i have xl's as well). and i think i have heard what you are hearing but i get it in the 15-20hz range. edit: for those who dont know, F3 is not the box tuning. and bottoming out is FUCKING LOUD so you would know.

Sounds like trying to play at or below the F3 point.

you raise another valid point. its virtually impossible to "unclip" a song that was mastered at the studio by a dumb ass DJ. i dont care what anyone says. nor can you make a song that sounds like crap, sound less like crap. So, like Bieber. There is no good way to make that little girl sound good. EDIT: good point kylar, we thread jacked this shit bad lol.

he would stinn need to upgrade eletrical if he buys a second 1200 2400 watts on stock is not gonna fly

I know people who've had issues running the 1200 at half ohm. Plus, not sure how you can wire your subs from1 ohm to half ohm anyways.. It's iether 0.25/1/4 or 0.5/2/8

Don't do it.

SAY AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY WE WANT SOME PUUUUUSSSAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!!!!!!

if you noticed there was also kicker and those orange could be memphis. bottom shelf is an hcca

I just fell outta my chair dude......

You might not be a noob, but 16v systems(charging at 18v) are really only useful for competitors that are trying to milk every 1/10th of a db out of what they have. Why do you want to feed a sub that is rated for 2200w 3000w? If you want to do this, then dont but a 5k, and just get 2 3.5s while they are on pre sale. Trust me, stick with 12v it will work out better for you in the long run. 14v and 16v batteries get damn expensive in a hurry when you have to build a much larger bank than you do with 12v batteries. I am running 10 D1400s for 2 5ks with 2 350a alts. It takes every bit of that electrical to keep me from having voltage drop and I still have drop when at idle. With a 12v setup, you can run the D3100s or Xp3000s and get alot more reserve capacity than you will get with the 1400s or 1600s. This will keep your voltage higher for longer which is what you want for a daily setup.

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