Leaderboard

http://bit.ly/MtQqhs

The deaf guy video made local news in a lot of places, other then my OWN local area - but i have heard sitings from Indiana all the way to Oakland...even got a text from B-Legit telling me "hey man your shit is on the news". http://www.rightthisminute.com/video/can-you-hear-bass

rolling with the pumpkins in the Astro

I just fell outta my chair dude......

Difference in .35 and .5 nominal, the gain would be minimal when building a daily system. If you are chasing numbers, then it's a different story. I am all for wiring below 1 ohm nominal, if you know what you are doing and are willing to take the risk and pay to have your equipment fixed if something goes wrong. I'm not going to go running to rusty if something happens to my 9ks when I am wired at .5.

Andrew, arent you at finals? Shut up and get in the lanes lol

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty. Now lets get to the lesson. If you are asking this question, then you have no clue about nominal and reactive ohm loads and should not be wiring any amplifier below 1 ohm. Nominal Ohm Load= What you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohms subs wired in parallel, then you would be seeing a .5ohm load at the amp. Reactive Ohm Load= actual ohm load seen by the amp once a signal is applied to the sub. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired in parallel down to .5 ohm nominal and then apply a signal to the subs, now the subs are effected by different variables that cause impedance rise. Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts. So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v. If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom. lmfao Please explain to me the point of your very first post on this site being "laughing my fucking ass off" I am going to report you so the mods can keep an eye on you to see if you are going to be a useful member or just a douche bag with nothing useful to add. hahahahahahah u mad bro? i didnt kno we couldnt laugh i dont see that on the forum rules. if u rly wanna know i was lmfao @ i thought ur post was good til i read the dozens after it. please dont reply to me with any nerd rage kthxbye

i'm kinda laughing at the tool bags worthless ramblings myself. Trying to tell us that an amp wired below one ohm will automatically protect is pretty stupid since we have all seen it done many many times and the majority of us have probably done it ourselves and still have the equipment running to this day. And .35? We have seen that ran in daily set ups with out the magic smoke coming out. Not all amps are built like the sony amps that i am sure this dude is so used to using that is trying to give us the "Lesson."

Mounting Specifications PAX-6.5" Mounting Depth : 3.1" Cut-Out Diameter : 5.8" Outside Diameter : 6.6" PAX-8" Mounting Depth : 3.6" Cut-Out Diameter : 7.2" Outside Diameter : 8.3" PAX-10" Mounting Depth : 4" Cut-Out Diameter : 8.7" Outside Diameter : 10"

derp you must have put stupid water in that smart water

First off let me start with this. If you run any DC amp below 1 ohm, you WILL void your warranty. Now lets get to the lesson. If you are asking this question, then you have no clue about nominal and reactive ohm loads and should not be wiring any amplifier below 1 ohm. Nominal Ohm Load= What you are wired to at the amp before any signal is applied. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohms subs wired in parallel, then you would be seeing a .5ohm load at the amp. Reactive Ohm Load= actual ohm load seen by the amp once a signal is applied to the sub. Example- If you have 2 Dual 2 ohm subs wired in parallel down to .5 ohm nominal and then apply a signal to the subs, now the subs are effected by different variables that cause impedance rise. Moral of the story is, if you dont have a reactive ohm load of 1 ohm, the amp will protect and it will put out 0 watts. So you still want to know how much power the 7.5k will put out, 7500w at 1 ohm reactive and 12v. If you see .35 ohm reactive at the amp, then you probably just cost yourself $1000 repair bill because your amp is gonna go boom.