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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/18/16 in all areas

  1. Big question, how much power are you going to run? That is going to greatly affect what subs you should pick and how flat of response you can achieve. Here are some things to think about: 1. Ported boxes boost output around tuning. Once you get about an octave above tuning, the port has no effect. So at 70 Hz a 25 Hz tune is going to sound exactly the same as a 32 hz tuning. 2. The larger you make a ported box, the more boost in output you get, but only around tuning. If you want smoother frequency response, making the box smaller is one way to do that. 3. If you care about frequency response, don't run 8" subs unless you can't fit anything else. The problem with 8" subs is if they have moderately high power handling (which for 8"s is anything above 300 watts RMS, IMHO) they generally have really stiff suspensions and high motor force to cone area ratios, both of these things are bad for getting smooth frequency response. Compared to larger subs 8" subs will also have limited Xmax due to the fact that you can only fit so big of a spider on them. I'll say it again, there is no reason to run 8" subs if you can fit something larger. 4. If you are after smoother frequency response there are several ways to accomplish that goal. - Run larger subs, larger subs GENERALLY have lower motor force to cone area ratios, makes it easier to get smoother frequency response. I'd take one 15" over two 12"s or three 10"s almost every single time. - Make the ported box smaller. Smaller ported boxes boost the low end less, making it much less likely you will end up with peaky response. - Run sealed. With a sealed box you don't get any low frequency boost. The low end roll off of a proper sealed box closely matches the cabin gain you get in most vehicles, giving you pretty flat frequency response. - Do like strangeduck suggested and run a ported box and EQ it flat. This is the mostly complex option, but its also the most flexible. You can get whatever frequency response you want and you can change it around really easily. Just keep in mind its easy to turn down peaks with EQ, its almost impossible to fix dips in output though. DSP/EQ is pretty cheap these days, you can get a miniDSP for a little over $100. This is what I'm doing in my own vehicle. If I were in your shoes I'd probably try to cram two 12"s subs in a ported box if at all possible (what's the max dimensions of your space?), if its not go for two 10"s. I'd be picky about what subs I used and I'd probably use EQ to dial in exactly how it wanted them to sound.
    3 points
  2. You have found out why 8inch subwoofers are useless in cars, even though they exist, they shouldn't. Sealed enclosure (1 12inch) or 10inch ported are probably your only good options with the space you have available. Anything else will not be efficient.
    2 points
  3. Lol... my wife walked by stopped and read the topic of this thread, laughed, started to walk off and said "uhhh size duh"! Just thought that was funny and figured maybe someone else would get a kick out of it. Her mind stays in the gutter but I love her
    1 point
  4. 1/2 material can work well, but you have to do it right. First off, don't use MDF, use real baltic birch plywood, its a lot stiffer than MDF. Home Depot won't have it, you have to get it from a plywood supplier. I pay about $32 for a 5' x 5' sheet of it. Secondly, you will need to brace it well. Try to keep unbraced spans less than 10". I've built quite a few enclosures out of 1/2" material, it works fine as long as you approach it correctly.
    1 point
  5. Turned out really nice. Great job. Your hard work paid off.
    1 point
  6. Thickness shouldn't matter too much, it will cure as long as the sunlight is shining on it. However your only going to be able to layer it so much before it starts to run unless you do 1 side at a time. As far as pigment, it depends on the pigment since all are not the same. So for that I would mix just a little in a cup with some pigment put it in the sun and try it.
    1 point
  7. Another coat of primer: Wetsanded that primer stage with 600 grit No more roof rails! Finally the moment you all (and myself) have been waiting for Then the whole basecoat was wetsanded also with 600 You can see the blue spot on the fender where it rubbed through. Thats ok because im doing another layer of color before clear anyway. This was friday night, more color and clear finally! better without the tire covers! And this is how she was Saturday night. Got 3 of the 4 new tires mounted and balanced. 2 lugs on the last wheel fucked me so i had to make a run home for more tools. Sunday was cleanup day and monday night I drove her home!
    1 point
  8. look into 6.5s! ive got 9 6.5s on a ct sounds 1400 and it plays 20 hz to 80 hz. pretty loud and good sq! heres my build to look at http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200087-9-massive-summo-65s-ct-sounds-1400
    1 point
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