Jump to content

reedal

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4310

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

 Content Type 

Everything posted by reedal

  1. reedal
    Ground is ground is ground is ground you should be fine.
  2. reedal
    My DD-1 manual says to use the amplifier ground, not the speaker negative output.
  3. reedal
    D6500 was the size for my 97 explorer, and D3400 is the size for every GM SUV/Truck in the last twenty years, so I'm sure ford probably is the same Edit: same as in D6500 being the correct size for ford SUV/Trucks over the years
  4. reedal
    What truck do you have? you could always measure your current battery and compare specs to the D6500
  5. reedal
    Maybe if you're going by the MSRP they have listed on their site... http://skyhighcaraudio.com/xs-power-d6500/
  6. reedal

    Two and four channel amps have the signal exiting from the negative speaker output of the second and fourth channel, so wouldn't that mean that the speakers on those channels are out of phase from channels 1 & 3 if you wire positive to positive and negative to negative?

  7. reedal
    This is late (considering it's been almost two weeks since I put the meters in, but here's a video of them at work.
  8. reedal
    Thank you! I can only hope to have my front stage look and sound as good as yours and many other members do. I have a lot of work to do in order to get it there. My next "major" purchases will be everything needed for proper deadening, which should have been my first step when I bought the Tahoe.
  9. reedal
    Thanks man. I still haven't gotten around to finish that blemish unfortunately. But hopefully soon. That, and getting started on pillars and doors for the HATs
  10. reedal
    The DD-1 presents a reactive load to the amp, it's designed into the circuitry. No need to wire a sub to the amp, and i highly suggest any DD-1 user doesn't do so, especially when OP can go maximum gain without reading distortion, as he's likely to fry the sub.
  11. reedal
    That seems like a crossover setting issue to me, thinking back at past problems other members have had. So I'll run through the proper steps for you to follow to ensure everything is setup completely. All filters and EQ's on HU set to off or flat. Sub/low level set to zero. Subwoofer amp RCAs connected to HU's sub out preouts. On the amplifier, low pass filter turned completely clockwise, subsonic filter turned completely counter clockwise, and gain (line) turned completely counter clockwise. DD-1 on, red probe inserted and tightened down on amplifier speaker out positive, DD-1 black probe/clip connected to amplifier ground (if all steps before and after this step have not worked, connect black lead to amplifier speaker negative and retry) Play 40hz tone with the desired attenuation Adjust gain/line potentiometer clockwise slowly until distortion LED lights and remains lit, then back down gently until LED extinguishes.
  12. reedal
    From a member here very knowledgeable in enclosure design. maybe this will help you some in finding out what you want. I'd recommend reading the whole thing and doing a lot more research, and download an enclosure design software in order to model out the predicted response of the enclosure you want with the subs you want. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/126478-basics-of-a-4th-order-bandpass-enclosure/page-9
  13. reedal

    OM-1 set. Now, I can safely play the one song that has given me coil smell in the past. Stevie Stone - The Reason. Woo-hoo! Now it's time to go vacuum up some plastic shavings from cutting the pocket so I could access the meter..

  14. reedal
    Good temperature today got the meters wired up!! Edit: and I just realized something... I forgot to adjust the OM-1 before mounting it. Soooooooooo that will be tomorrow's project. It will require my dremel and a cutting disc, so I can cut out the back side of the pocket that the meters are mounted over. Damn. Oh well.
  15. reedal
    And the collection for my front stage is complete Four way active front stage, five way active including subwoofers. L1 pros and L4's in the A-pillars, L6's in the doors, L8's in the kicks is the plan, but I may change the L8's to the doors as well depending on space available for the drivers side kick. Still deciding on crossover points to start with, but that will come whenever I get everything fabricated and ready to play. Until then, it's time to buy some deadener. Time to do my doors the right way
  16. reedal
    HAT L4's Only the L6's and L1pro's are left, which should be here tomorrow, and then my HAT front stage will be complete (minus grilles and thermal protectors for the tweeters, which will be next payday). It feels shameful to put all of these great speakers in a closet to sit until I have the time and weather to get to work on their placement. But today is mid 50's, just "warm" enough to make me want to go outside and pull out some seating and carpet and run my wiring for the SMD meters. Hopefully I'll have some completed pictures of that later
  17. reedal

    Just bought a pair of HAT L6's and L1pro's.

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. reedal

      reedal

      And then I said to hell with the used L3, I'll get the pair of L4 BNIB for $50 more. Now to just get the grilles for them all.

    3. ToNasty

      ToNasty

      I got my grilles from audiointensity.com. like 20 bucks a set

    4. reedal

      reedal

      Nice. I'll look into it. Thank you.

  18. reedal
    I don't think anyone with any sense will recommend playing your system with the engine off and the batteries not being charged for "as long as possible", over and over again. That will stress the batteries a lot shortening their life span dramatically. And then the alternator(s). Using an alternator to bring batteries at low voltage back to life isn't good. Leave the engine running, and bring extra gas with you. That's my suggestion.
  19. reedal
    Here is the "finished" product I don't know what pressed against it when I was installing and wiring up the RCA's for the LC-1, but something pressed against it to put that dent on it, and I saw it once I put everything back together. So I'll pull it back out when it's warmer and can redo my doors. I plan to pull all the seats and carpet out to rerun the wiring, and wire up the meters. But until then, I have it in, and can use the LC-1 when I need to. It was such an achievement and then I screwed it up.
  20. reedal
    passive ok. I think you'll be fine personally, but as I suggested, listen to music without the sub(s) playing (assuming you have a sub stage) after setting the gain, and dial it down as needed. Without seeing the actual power coming out of the amp, it's hard to say if you'll be over powering the mids/highs and the crossover that came with them. I'm unsure of the power ratings of your amp and those components
  21. reedal
    Try it out. Don't go hammering on it right off though. Slowly turn it up after setting with the -5dB and listen for any popping, distorting, smells. Make sure sub-bass is off so you can really concentrate on what the mids and tweets are doing. But all in all, I think you should be good to go. You may have mentioned it already, but are you doing active or passive?
  22. reedal

    Working on that dash piece still. Taking my time (which is hard because I'm impatient and excited for the finish of it), and every time I sand it, primer it and look for blemishes, I find more that I didn't see before. Round 4 is done, hopefully the last time.

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. reedal

      reedal

      This is probably the best "body work" or fabrication I've done since I started. Which was may/June time frame last year. So it's a learning experience still. It's frustrating to see imperfections, fix them, spray, dry, and find more imperfections, but I guess it's all part of the process. Hopefully the more practice I get in the less imperfections in the future on other things.

    3. OrionStang

      OrionStang

      Still scurred to do my own doors.

    4. reedal

      reedal

      I don't mind making pods that I can remove whenever I want that form to the factory speaker location/grille contours, but I'm definitely scurred to cut my panels like a lot of people do. Because worst comes to worst the way I do it, I have holes in the panel where no one will ever see it whether I have the factory grill or my pods. If I cut the rest of the door, well, I don't want to buy a new or a used one.

  23. reedal
    Alright. Here is the USB female extension getting mounted onto the SMD bezel. First, I cut the tape to the size of the end that will be in the bezel Then, I horizontally centered it underneath of the LC-1 i used a blade to mark the outside of the tape, then removed the tape, drilled a hole inside of the lines, then started filing 6475930262538263638392 strokes from 4 different files later (trying to find the one I felt was best suited) it's almost there!! The finished filed hole And what it looks like with the LC-1 I like it. I'm happy. Now to get started with the dash piece..... Oh, here's where the double-pocketed dash piece sits scooter, for reference of how much space I have available to cut and flush the bezel. Maybe 6 inches at the top and 8-9 at the bottom? Don't mind the dirt. I don't do any cleaning of the vehicles during winter. It's pointless. I don't understand the people at the car wash the day of and after the snow has melted off of the roads, because all the sand on the roads is just going right back on your car when you leave there. Ok. Sorry. End of the "oh look, a squirrel" moment. Stay tuned.....
  24. reedal
    Stop undressing my new mids with your eyes...
  25. reedal
    yeah ok! Sure thing, for $400 and cost to ship
×
×
  • Create New...