ChevyBoy95

Like TSNSs...

Yea, if he did 15s. I was just going checking stuff for a shizzz ton of woofas.

I was just going over ohm loads, seems like if there were 16, the coils of dvc2 or dvc4 can both be wired to 2 ohms.

Check audiosavings.com , they have them around 1400 or so iirc. And with 10k, 12 or 14 L7 12s.

not really, if its ported 1 chamber is fine. but if you ever go sealed, you need a separate chamber per woofer. but your going ported, so you could go 2 chambers or 1, no difference really. and the 2 6in ports sound fine.

niether.... just my opinion.

Should be fine, might have a tad of voltage drop but nothing bad

2 kicker cvt 12s sealed on a pioneer gm7200m and loved it or it could be my newest system, DC LVL 4 15 @ 32.7Hz on a Soundstream TRX1500d @ 1 ohm. the DC shakes literally everything in my truck, some stuff very little, some stuff a lot, but it is all noticeable.

corret me if im wrong but isnt it pretty much to the xl? yes, but not exactly, it doesnt change xmax and some other stuff. its different i think, but only slightly. edit: it might be the same as the xl, but with 500 more rms in a lvl 4 package.

1995 Chevy c1500 ext cab power: 18ft (front left hood aka battery, straight back, all the way right, down under the cabin, up through the side rail, and to the back wall of the cab, finally then 3 ft to the left.) ground: 3ft rcas: 17ft

CCA = copper clad aluminum, OFC = oxygen free copper (better). there about the same unless your competing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Red-Ultra-Flex-1-0-Gauge-Power-Wire-50-/390276242463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ade46dc1f#ht_4541wt_1139 $100 for 50ft of some of the best wire out there.

the comps will move a lot more than you think too. i had 2 12s and always treated them like babies until i threw 1.5k at 2, with respectable gains of course, and they get moving. best "budget" sub Ive ever used.

if you mean just the regular one with the DC on the side, yes. 100% cotton and they are quite comfortable and feel nice.

yes that would be a waste on a fourwheeler lol. but 60 is the cheapest ive seen some componets there are Kenwoods, RFs, Kickers, Powerbass, Pioneer, MB Quart, Clarion, Infinity, and more that are around 60. (45-90) but why go for SQ when on a 4 wheeler...

lol mexican cars? yea. or the ones with a 6.5 under there hood so EVERYONE can hear there awesome music choice. I dont get it... not being racist or anything but, what is with a very few amount of hispanics who just love the fake chrome, chrome door handles, trim, tail lights, fake air vents, etc. And they have to be loud and gaudy like they are trying to make some huge statement that there better than everyone(me thinks they are self righteous...) (fyi: i live in south texas) not trying to thread jack... sorry.

214k on my 95 chevy truck and synthetic has never done me wrong.

Outside the car is a zero pressure zone.

Yeah i agree with you, im making my own box now and its way better than some pre fab garbage and better than i know the shitty car audio places around here would do for me, plus you save $$$. Give it a try x3, and when you finish, you get a sort of self satisfaction. and they are generally 1000 times better than prefabs(for ported), and sealed boxes are usually really easy to do, no tuning, or port displacement. AND YOU LEARN! thats my biggest thing.

if you have a torch or something that can heat up plastic, you could get a 6in PVC and flare it...

Das hawt.

Knukonceptz, bought 25ft a week ago and installed it. It's some beefy wire but also it can be tied in knots.

stuff called goo gone. it dissolves sticky ish like nothing.

Pics 1, 2, and 8 are amazing

could you reword what your talking about so i (and we) can understand what you are trying to say. (there are a bunch of typos in the second and third sentence.) edit: your battery needs to be completely disconnected, negative of first, then positive off. Run the power from the battery under the hood to the battery positive on the amplifier. Then run your ground from where ever your amp is (i.e. if it is in the trunk, ground the amp in the trunk to the FRAME or the best place possible.) to your amp. Put the remote turn on in and reconnect the battery, positive first, then negative. I COULDN'T UNDERSTAND THE SECOND SENTENCE(So i out the power and the ground to the Battery sence it is in the trunk.) SO IM NOT SURE WHAT IT MEANS, LIKE IF THERE IS A BATTERY IN YOUR TRUNK? OR POWER WIRE FROM THE BATTERY TO TRUNK?