rusty959

I spent this last summer at OCS, if you feel like counting that. You asked where the marines were stationed at, but how about yourself?

Well, the ol probe hasn't had anything in it since I took the wall out and let my sister drive it for a year and a half, but now I have it back and figure I might get around to fixing it back up. Enough talk, pics. Anyways, a double din wasn't in the plans when this car was built, so I had some rearranging to do. I forgot to take before pics, but imagine the air controls in the second slot down. moved them down to where there was a pocket. It isn't pretty yet, I might make it prettier later Cut the divider on the inside till the thing would fit. Then cut the trim panel. This one actually came out of my old probe, so I can always throw the stock one back in if I take the double din out. I trimmed it a bit better later, eventually ill probably do some glassing work to get it looking good. But not important right now. Ran wires for the bluetooth mic and alarm reciever through the a pillar Wires, wires, I love wires! Cutting some wood Dirty probe. More later.

Pretty sure I see a M before the omega, don't think thats 22.94 ohms

If for some reason you are still working on this 11 days later... Why remove them? You could just add a single if statement and only print it if the value in the array isn't 0. At least this is the easiest way. You can't simply "remove" them from the array, you would have to make a new array the size of the number of primes you have and copy the primes over.

Can't you get a cassette to 8 track adapter? so mp3->cassette->8 track->6x9's->profit. Also, nice ride.

I figured, I was just throwing out info for the OP so he wouldn't do a similar scaling

a 6" length 45 is too much for this, that is restricting the airflow. When I did mine I made the center of the 45 the same distance from the corner (diagonally compared to the ports) as the width of the port. Im not sure if this is the best way but it won't be restricting airflow and it is assisting in changing the direction of the air

Good work, sketchup is pretty nice, definitely a good skill to have.

http://sketchup.google.com/ It is a big help, especially when communicating ideas. Id help but Im not really sure what you are saying. Drawing a picture could work in a worst case scenario as well

I don't know about most people but I don't consider 64 10's 5026 in^2 of cone area... the loss due to what isn't a cone is much more pronounced on smaller subs than larger. Depending on the sub, I consider 64 10's somewhere under 4000 in^2

This might be something you have already tried, but maybe try moving your wires. Maybe not even have them installed, run them strait out of the vehicle and around, moving pieces one at a time. Sometimes rca's or power wires can get close enough to another signal line that just messes with it. Happened with my wideband sensor.

Looking for either a 1.2k or a 2k, shipped to 47404 Thanks!

Also, I suggest not replying to it either, because then they will have your email.

Ive had my eye on this one for a little bit now

Hometown bloomington, go to school in Terre Haute

Sounds like your problem isn't oreillys, its the people working there. Go somewhere else if it bothers you that much to look up the parts yourself.

Sure you could bypass it, it just may not be easy. All you have to do is give it the same signal it would get from the sensor. However, finding out what that signal is may or may not be easy depending on what it is, and then recreating that may or may not be easy. However, being a cheap thing as it is, I doubt it is anything too complex

You could always wire it differently. I didn't really read how you had it hooked up but if you have the two coils hooked up series and the woofers in parallel you could rip all the wire out and wire the subs in series and the coils on each sub in parallel to get the load back. or vice versa. That way there is very little chance you screw up the exact same way again if something was wrong.

EE would be a good place to start for the amp side of things. It would branch a little bit to the computer engineering side of things, depending on how you define computer engineering. The subwoofer side of things is a mix of a lot of things. You would probably start off mechanical engineering then branch off at some point to concentrate in something audio. Im not really sure there, Im only a junior electrical/computer engineering major. If you want to do anything engineering related, I hope you are the type of person who takes school seriously. If not, don't waste your time and money.

Thats pretty sick. And yea, those rapid prototyping things are pretty sweet. At my college the fsae team just had an intake made similarly, and it looks amazing. Good work on the car, be sure to get some vids of it pwning the competition.

Yea, try to get part numbers or something too, no clue how to help if we don't know what it does or where it came from, unless someone has seen something like it, and I sure haven't.

Sounds like an awesome idea. One suggestion... seems like the video is more important than the camera... so maybe have some people here and there back up the sd card on their computer so if the worse happens (including things like lost shipments etc... large chance of that considering how many hands it will go through) the latest backup could just send you the files? Also something to keep in mind is the sheer time it would take if everyone is sending it far away... people who might not have a system now would before the entire thing is done!

From the sound of your post.... and a 5-6k budget id definitely ditch the alpines and jump for something a bit more powerful. Personally Id jump for the 2 18's option. But, since it seems like you may be new to the installing part of car audio, don't jump ahead of yourself. When you start moving a lot of power things can go wrong quickly, and this usually means it gets even more expensive. That being said at least in an Escalade you aren't extremely cramped for space which is good for starting out, so if you do install it yourself, just go slowly and be careful. etc. Edit: Reason for suggesting you switch is to get some more cone area. This will help out with the deeper bass you want. Not that it can't be done with a couple 12's but it is easier and usually louder with more cone area. I personally prefer subs bigger than 12's, don't like odd numbers of subs, and no reason to go with 2 15's if you can do 2 18's IMO. Others might not agree. But this is why I suggested 2 18's

Ill wait for your more in depth response but I bet you know how you could test different theories

Good work on this test. Yay for having a few comments. I think one of the things sani was getting at is if this was a sweep, obviously there are lower frequencies at the beginning and higher towards the end. It would be interesting to see what these frequencies are at what points. Also something I find interesting is it seems like the deadener seems to increase the frequency the peaks occur. I think a 200% coverage test is in order just for consistency's sake And finally, your statement about how the deadener can be applied in however size pieces you want seems interesting to me. In my head, part of the purpose of the foil is to be another rigid structure set a bit off the metal to form a similar concept to a h-beam if you know what I mean. Therefore, some patterns would be more effective than others in deadening, especially at lower frequencies. For example, long slender strips spaced for 25% coverage would increase rigidity more in the "vertical" direction than "horizontal". Similar to one of the wooden sliding doors on a desk or something if anyone knows what im talking about. Thoughts?