TheBetterMethod

Cool, I was planning on 3in. for the 45˚s anyway. Thanks for your input! I'm gonna be building this in the next week or so. So if anyone else has input, I'm all ears.

I've got to build a box for my '05 Subaru Outback Wagon. I've got the sub from my last car, but I'm starting with a clean slate for the box. So I have a few questions. But first I'll give some background. The sub is a Fi Q 15. The box will be ported and tuned no higher than 33hz. I'm not sure exactly what the tuning will be yet. The volume of the box will be about 4cu.ft. after sub displacement, and the port will be one 6in. aeroport, all external. I'm going to use 3/4in. birch ply for the enclosure to save a little weight over mdf. The sub is going to be on the driver's side pointed up at the roof, and the port will be on the passenger side, pointed back toward the hatch. So the questions... I know there's a rule about not putting the exit of the port too close to the hatch, but it seems like there are a lot of different opinions about what too close is. I think I'll have about 3in. between the exit of the port and the hatch. Does that sound alright? Next thing is, I plan on adding 45˚s in the 4 vertical corners of the box. Is there a rule for how big the 45˚ should be?

I saw this stuff on ROE. Awesome design Jacob. Keep us posted.

x2 What amps, how much power?

I had a d2 Champ. Pro 12 for a month on 1200 watts, it burned out after maybe 10 hrs. of play on it. You fried the sub, and the amp. It's probably not a manufacturer defect. But I do think those subs have cooling issues.

Inane flex on that Odyssey! Where was this show, TX?

Maybe he just doesn't like the music. Was there any profanity? People tend to have a problem with that. That being said I would have asked you in person rather than calling the cops.

Sounds to me like the guy doesn't know what he's talking about. That's very common in this hobby. Let him do stupid stuff and maybe he'll learn from his mistakes.

Adversity is the parent of virtue. Stay positive, and get your name out to as many places as you can. Always present yourself with a smile and a firm handshake. This is gonna be a tough time for you, but it'll pass. It's just another page for your book. My best wishes to you and good luck with your endeavors.

I can't help you find the HU, but for power wire there's always TryStar. Go to eBay and find CopperCableMan (I think that's right). He sells it for a good price. Also JSC Cable, from Parts-Express is very nice cable and wire that's made in the US.

There are several new Pioneer single DIN units that are adjustable. Including my 9400BH. It's got a bunch of preset color options.

I would assume it blew because it had been used for 11+ years.

Awesome!

I think you've got a SVC Thunder 9500.

Did you check the resistance of the coils individually? Make sure they're good and reading at 4 each.

It might not read exactly 2 ohms with a meter. But if you wire the coils in Parallel you're good to go.

If it's d2 you won't be able to if it's d1 or d4 you can. Wire +to + -to- Parallel.

Yeah I'd fuse between the battery and bar. If you're only going a total of about 20 inches you might be better off just using 2 runs of + and ditching the dist. block, All those extra connections will be a bit of a pain.

It'll work fine. The double input reduces resistance in wiring slightly. There probably won't be any difference between using 1 run or two over such a small distance, but a little extra wire can't hurt.

I thought you played Steve? I've noticed the guitar in other vids. I've been playing since 98. Never looked back, I'm a lifer.

Pacman Jones? You like the Cowboyz??? I mean I liked him when he played for WVU, but I didn't know he was into car audio. That's cool, but it doesn't make up for Dallas.

So you're renting this space?

Thanks for all the replies fellas! I still can't find the 7in. cement formers, and the search I did for irrigation pipe was fruitless. I came across the stove pipe a few days ago, and thought about it. Since you had good luck with it maybe it would be worth a shot. Thanks a bunch!

COOL! Thanks for the info. I looked for cement forms and couldn't find the right size, but I'll keep looking. And I'll check on that irrigation thing too.

I looked at the schedule 8*0 and the ID would be fine but the OD is very big and takes a lot of box volume, plus that stuff weighs about 8lbs/ft. Since the port would be about 27in. long that would make the port about 20lbs. And I think I would have trouble heat forming flares on the ends of schedule 8*0. As for the area I want. It's going to be an aero port so from what I understand 9-12 per cube is ideal for daily. I may be wrong. But a 7in. ID schedule 40 would be ideal for it's ID and OD and the length per 30hz tuning. But I can't find any. Thanks for all your input guys!