Autruche

23Hz is no problem. I don't lose cone control until about 16Hz.

Drill a hole through the floor, sand the spot to bare metal and secure the grounds to it using a nut and bolt with washer. Also try getting better spark plug wires if the noise still continues.

Side port will use less wood, be smaller, and be simpler to build/design. Side port is usually louder (from personal experiences,) but can cause loading issues in high power applications. Center port uses more wood, will be slightly larger, and can be a bitch to build/design. Also, they are a bitch to put long ports in. They are usually not quite as loud, but there is no risk of loading problems as long as you put a large enough pair of 45s in the back where the port splits to help direct air flow. I love the look of center ports, but I love the simplicity and efficiency of the side port.

I had seen half a dozen deer just walking right down the middle of main street in my town before. Deer in town don't seem to care as much as deer out in the county.

Cheap copper lugs? Okay... http://impulse-elect...let%20Terminals Depends if you are going to solder or crimp though. I still get those even if I intend to solder them, I just drill a hole in the top to solder through.

Her Legend of Zelda medley is my favorite one that she has done. Speaking of which, I think I might play some Ocarina of Time now...

Get a better set of RCA cables, try ground your amp in a different spot (sand to bare metal, drill through the metal, and secure it with a nut and bolt with washers) or try getting a better set of spark plug wires, or try doing the big 3. Those are the usual culprits and fixes.

Yep, I'm the one who does that. Exactly the same way the OP describes, but one thing is missing. You must lower the amplitude of both tracks before you mix and render them, otherwise they will both start to clip. Usually I lower the treble track more than the bass track. Also you will often encounter situations where running a HPF will clip the highs badly. In those situations I amplify the track by -50 dB, duplicate it, then use the EQ with the steepest roll off to boost the desired frequencies by about 45dB. In essence, doing the exact opposite of a crossover. You RARELY wind up with a track that sounds as good as the original though, it doesn't work every time. More often than not you wind up with a terribly choppy looking bass line, or bad harmonic distortion, or a waveform that does not want to go back together at the correct amplitudes. When it does work it is great, but it is a total pain in the ass to do because only about 1 in 5 songs would actually reconfigure properly, but most of the time it would just sound totally wrong. I've been manipulating songs like that for over a year now and I've only ever had it turn out the right way like a dozen times. I have more audacity projects in my recycling bin that I have posts on this forum.

Damn, that's going to be nice! We have two of those vans where I work and I've ridden in them and they have tons of open space and handle fairly well, even when all loaded up with 1500 pounds or so. Only thing that sucks is that there is so much open sheet metal, so you'll have to deaden the crap out of it.

Sounds good to me. Do the big 3 and you should be fine. Dropping a second battery in would be a good idea though. I am running over 3500 RMS and I have 2 batteries and 220 amps of alternator power and I can stay in the 13s all day as long as I keep it above idle. Even when I had just one battery I could keep it above 12, but I like to stay mid 13s, and I'm sure you won't have a problem. My friend had a similar setup to what you are talking about (270 amp alt and a single battery) and he'd stay in high 13s all day.

Clipping is a type of distortion, bro. If you intend on getting a scope just for setting gains, then just get a DD-1. If you intend on getting a scope for things other than audio (like testing circuits,) then a Velleman HPS-10 or TPi 440 are good for the money.

price to performance, you can't argue with 1/0. 2/0 is usually more expensive than what it is worth in my opinion, but there are many who would argue otherwise. If you have a battery in the back then a single run of 1/0 should suffice. I am running the same amp. I have 2 runs of 1/0 positive, and 2 runs of 1/0 negative with about 220 amps of alternator power with a single battery. It was fine with just one run of positive and negative before, but it did make a difference when I doubled up the runs.

They can share a common ground, but they will have to be charged with a stepdown or seperate alternators as they cannot share a common positive. 12 volt battery should be charged at less than 15 volts (14.4 preferably) and a 14 volt battery should be charged at less than 17 volts (16.8 preferably.) If you aren't running tens of thousands of watts, then just stay with a 12 volt system. Way too many headaches otherwise.

My GIF still wouldn't work. I tried importing it from Photobucket and I tried uploading it to the site. Said failed either way.

Nope, no adds. Not able to use GIFs as avatars though.

Ooh, I'm liking the changes. A little bummed that I can't change the setting for posts per page though. I loved having it set to 40 per page so I didn't have to keep going through pages constantly, but oh well.

Plain and simple, every woman just wants a real man. If you got friend zoned then you were being to nice and you need to play your game more straightforward. Women like it when a man gets to the point, instead of beating around the bush.

Before you go and drop hundreds on new woofers, I'd try building a new box for the level 6. I'd be interested in what it'd be like in a good 6th order. You know what they say; 10% equipment, 90% install.

How is your ground? Maybe a loose connection somewhere. I had an old Sony amp that did the same thing, turned out to be a bad ground.