AA98hoe

No way your going to fit 8 18s at c pillar...4 18s won't work ideally I've researched..my opinion to you op is sell m1s buy 4 -6 m2s on 20k.. remember just because you have a 5k amp doesn't mean your goin to get 5k..there's box rise and voltage an amperage to consider.. I have over 5k in my electrical and it barely cover my 17k watts..I only use 4 -18s on 2 -dc 7.5s in a nonwall box..and do 156s.I won state championships and placed 4th in the nation at dbdrag world finals..so its not always about a lot of subs and huge power..its 80% enclosure and design... the electrical subs amps and so on..prime example..corona jeff doing 159.2 with 4 m2 15s on 2 ab 1100s.. and a huge battery bank..

Check coils...sounds like it blew.if its seized up coils came off former and are binding in pole gap...

He never made it right? He's always helped me..from modding amps to repairs... I know 1st hand some diablos are beyond repair because they have so many issues from bad soldering to driver board power supply problems.... the chinese just built them like crap

It use to be that you wanted your grounds as short as possible...so grounding all amps or batterys to the same point would mean some awfull long ground wires... I ground to frame and use 0g front to back

What's that shit on the pole? Or is it chipped? Can't tell from my phone

I use the dd-1 for newbs that have no control...unclipped isn't loud enough for me. :-) just got to know your system and back off like foxracing said..

Gotts love n8:-) he's on it... and how this guy get a lvl6 and 5k

He protected when the coil burnt and shorted..its happened to me many times... that I cois a clipped...square wave did that..I've done that a few times also..turn gains down...zero bassboost...watch voltage you should be ok

I run 14v with no step downs also... but I do have a sterring sensor issue at 16.4v so I charge at 16.3 when driving and top off batterys weekly with xs intellicharger...most mid highs amps won't operate above 16v so check which ones do... if your new just stick with 12v a good alternator and some quality batterys

Vids of both playing? And all older m1s didn't have hole I actually drilled mine out when I reconed..shouldn't make a difference that you will notice. Plus your running low power

I love DC but ascendants are on another level... I would of reconed the xls a dozen times already they way I beat on the mayhems.. I can get them almost hot to the touch and sometimes stinky ...but they keep on playing lol....

They work and take a lil clipping.. :-) I beat the crap out of mine sometimes fullclip 30hz..they get warm and a lil stinky but keep going..oh I have like 4300watts to each sub also

What vehicle? A mini hairtrick is possible... got to move a lot of air..depends on car box subs power etc

I remember I wanted one of those when it came out couldn't afford it or the nakamichi or denon high end stuff

How's does aluminum not like copper...? I use them together all the time..the gold connectors are brass a shitty conductor..zinc is better than brass..just check exposed lugs in engine bay or on frame frequently for rust

People will disagree with me.. but I believe your alts power your system then batterys are there to pick up when amperage runs out..for example with 1 alt 350a I will drop a full volt when railing on it hard you can actually watch it drop with each bassnote.. with all 3 alts and 1020amp of alt I drop .2 fulltilt... the caps I have will discharge all there power during my burp and take a while to charge up..I talked with eric earlier and we think my alts are becoming heatsoaked sitting there idleing like I said when I drive and they kool off its fine... I wish I had more batterys but as of now I never drop below resting voltage unless I want too.. my system is tuned for 16v and just sounds better..when it drops I can tell the bass is less and the meter confirms this..solution? I have no idea maybe more alts or new ones..

Tinned or copper doesn't really matter unless its exposed...then id use tinned which is just anodized copper

Yes I have intellicharger and I top them off...just curious as to why if I'm driving my voltage will go back up fast as too parked an revved up..is it cause I have kool air blowing through them when driving....as opposed to heatsoaked alts sitting there when idleing

You don't need 2/0 lugs for 0g I use 1/0... and pay 70 cents each from a battery wholesale house

Yesterday I was doing some testing on the termlab...matt an eric as you know I have 3 of your alts on my hoe and 6 xs14v batts I got from you guys...well anyways my voltage was at 16.3 then I burped it and it dropped to 15.7 and stayed there..I burp at 2k rpm..I also have 2 banks of maxwell caps that I assume are good for 1 burp then charge up.. my question is I sat there with rpms at 2k to try an get voltage up for 15-20 mins and it didn't....now when I started driving after about 5 mins it went back up... do my alts turn off when hot? I noticed on the freeway or just driving my voltage is golden..but if I'm parked and try and demo it doesn't hold as good even reved to 2k...why is that?

Buy 2inby 3/8 flat stock drill holes for battery terminals and as many holes as you want for 5/16 x11/2 bolts then use 0glugs and bolt to bussbar

I wouldn't say increase spl..but I know some sound better than others..I love alpine..allthough kenwood is decent too.its all in your preference like ford chevy dodge etc

Wow...that's classic....hope to see him get another spl build going

Are you just drilling holes and using bolts to hold a ring terminal on? That's what I have..I get my aluminum from a farm machinery parts house..they have every nut bolt atc..I use 3/8 x11/2..just use steel wool on it they should clean up nice