audiofanaticz

Just find images of the cables for sale for them, look at the ends. Almost every cable is reversed no matter which brand.

They are reversed! So it should be |Blue Yellow Green Red Black White|-|White Black Red Green Yellow Blue| Of coarse the colors of the wires or what color is used in which position doesn't matter, all that matters is that they are reversed when on the other side.

JL Audio!

You really need to get in the car, and gut all the interior from the B pillar backwards and then grab a tape measure and see what you have for room. Without that no one can really give you specs on what to build because we don't know what kind of room you have to work with. Besides that when building a wall you typically build the shell of it as big and strong as possible, once the shell is built you can than worry about measuring its internal dimensions and coming up with a game plan on what and how to build it.

It's possible to do, but they will most likely want you to send in said alternators and have them do it in house for warranty reasons. They also don't sell parts outright to the public either so that would be another reason you would have to send them in.

Drew Jones aka Bassaholics https://www.facebook.com/BassahaulicProductions

Try changing the unit from network mode to standard mode, or vice versa. Also make sure the green parking brake wire is connected. From what I can recall this can cause issues after a factory reset of the radio and it not giving you access to all menus/settings if it is disconnected.

Some lithium chemistry's cant be ran with agm or lead acid batteries. The D4S LTO 6.0 can be though, I have a few different people using them with mixed setups using XS Power D3400s as starting batteries and the LTO in the back by the amps with no problems, no isolators, and no other converters like people are rambling about. Now if it was a chemistry that cant be ran with agms, then you would need some sort of isolator, but then its still stupid because you just delete the front battery and run everything off the lithium and be done with it. Which is why you see people build dumb wooden boxes the size of a battery and call it a battery delete, all you really need though is just a distribution hub under the hood to connect the factory 12v electronics too. Simple buss bars do that just fine.

Just ordered more the other day and it came today!!

Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.

Your alpine has crossover options for the sub too, and it can do more than that outdated eq from the late 90s can. Just use the alpine, That old eq will probably add noise to the system if you try and use it! 🤣

That is also another possibility as well, sometimes just removing the screwdriver after setting it is enough to make a difference. Even if you think you barely bumped it you can change it. When I was driving my truck my amps would have to be rechecked every few weeks due to this and it got annoying fast, I even thought about squirting a little hot glue on the knobs after tuning..

With out knowing the system layout and all the components in the system its a crapshoot at best on why. Maybe something with your radio settings got changed, subwoofer output volume, bass settings, or crossover on the headunit got changed since you set it. Maybe you set the amp at a different volume setting, maybe the remote bass knob wasn't all the way up, maybe your batteries are not fully charged and its creating less power. It should have nothing to do with it being a lithium or agm issue. There's so many actual possibilities to why its testing different from when you first set it up.

drooooooooooooools

Did it work? Chances are a lot of these LOC boxes just add constant distortion right off the bat to the signal with minimal to no volume and no matter what level you have the gains adjusted on the LOCs so you will never get a clean reading. Your best bet would be to find the maximum volume level of the factory radio using the speaker wires you will use to tap into the LOC with (without the LOC hooked up) just so you know you have a solid accurate reading. Then go ahead and hook up the LOC and use the DD-1 on the rca outputs of the LOC, turn the radio up to the the volume that you just previously found with 0 gain settings on the LOC and slowly turn them up until distortion is reached (that is if it doesn't show instant distortion). If all is still good with no distortion find the max on the LOC, then hook up the DD-1 to the amplifier and slowly turn the gain from 0 up to distortion. This is really the best way to go about it, sure it is a few more steps but this way your checking all the bases to ensure it's a good signal at every step of the line when you have multiple adjustments that can be made. If you have distortion right away from the LOC then I would invest in a better LOC, not all of them are poor quality but a lot of them are. I know Meade has done a few videos on the cheap ones that just constantly output pure distortion making the DD-1 useless because there is no way around it, but he also done a video on quality ones that are good to use. I think Kicker made a halfway decent one that was under $30. I personally love the AudioControl LC2i and are my gotos for simple single sub amp installs as they offer a little more adjustment and the ability to run a remote bass knob on the newer ones but they are typically $90-120