audiofanaticz

Probably another idiot not knowing how to use a simple tool.... Ive set over 30+ amps, more realistically closer to 50 if not more in the last year of various brands, inlcuding a good 15 sundown amps such as 1500s,2500s,3500s, 4500s, NS-1s (not including doing some a couple times when installs have changed),and not once have I had an issue with ANY Brand amp frying from the DD-1.... If amps blow from using the dd-1, than they will blow from using a Oscilloscope, or a Digital Multimeter, or any other time you set the subwoofer gain with the amp turned on and the woofers disconnected. I had some old SPL Dynamic's amps do go kinda cooky nuts when the amps are on and producing power with no load on the amplifier. However I never seen one that instantly went up in smoke, if a problem arises the protection circuit would catch the problem until the amp power is cycled on and off, and they never blew from that issue alone. Even my old American Bass 150.1s went up in smoke one time when I was at mcdonalds in the drive thru and the volume was turned down to place an order and play. By the time I left mcdonalds and turned my stereo up I had no bass.. Turned out there was a bad or weak gate resistor that blew and took out a mosfet.. Morel of the story is, amps come and go, some last for ever, while some parts get weaker over time... There is no "smart" or "dumb" amp, only smart and dumb users, that amp is only doing what you tell it to do, just like your woofer. When you do something stupid your gear is going to be paying for it and so is your wallet. Example If your running a 1ohm stable amp at .5 ohms daily your weakening the components inside the amplifier over time and could blow at any time... This is why I hate buying used amps, let alone used amps from people I do not personally know! You and I dont know this guys system, or the abuse he put it thru... He could of pounded the shit out of those amps for years at .25 ohms, and the amps finally said fuck you, so in this guys attempt to not look like a complete idiot he goes and blames it on someone or something else.. Im now locking this thread, because nothing good can come from it... Just another idiot in the audio field, and on those forums a idiot is a dime a dozen... wait take that back almost every person on that site is pretty much a tard nowadays it seemed. All their skilled helpful people have left that site for others, while all that are left are trolls, and noobs that claim to do 155db from a trunk of their car with a pair of 10 inch alpine type rs in a sealed box...

Do you have any used baskets laying around for sale? Looking for a couple 18inch 6 spokes mainly, but other sizes work too! I can always use them I dont mind having to clean them up one bit either. Thanks Jacob -Brian

No Versus threads... Do you want to know which will be louder, lower, higher spl? Than this is what you do.... Go out and buy everything you want to see which will get your better results, buy a Termlab sensor to measure your SPL in every setup for $650.00. Once you have finished all your testing come back and tell us how it went! Every vehicle is different, every product will act different in every vehicle, hell even the same 2 types of vehicles with the same stereos and same everything else could be drastic changes in sound and spl. We can not tell you... Now if you have a question about a product or looking for reviews or concerns on something before you buy it, make a post and we will definitely try to help you out, but asking this or that is no good here or any other audio forums.

I so cant wait!!!! Of coarse tho thanks to this cool dude I know I have something to help hold me over, but even still Id love to hear the tracks that we have not heard yet. Think I heard you play another one in the tahoe on a video a few days ago, seemed like another slapper!

VS threads not allowed... Either is rent-a-modding... If you want to rent-a-mod, and post useless crap in an attempt to think your cool, I will in return want to ban you so I feel cool too!!

:ninja: I KILL JOO :ninja:

Thread is being locked due to it being a vs thread, and so many any hear talking out their ass... Clearly the SSA, AA, or the IA would be the best choice due to them all running a 3inch voice coil over a 2.5 inch like the Skar and Sundown. Dont get me wrong they are great woofers, but the 3 inch coil normally will take a bit more abuse and power when the woofer is built right. The IA is overpriced coming in at $339 for a 750wrms woofer... It is also lacking in the suspension with only 2 spiders it is very limited on the power it can handle before spider failure problems of torn spiders due to giving it more than rated power that the coil could handle fine with a better suspension. It only has 18mm of linear travel one way (xmax) or 36mm both ways. Rather low for the price. The IA also offer sewn tinsel leads which is a bonus. It does use a nice 8layer roundwire copper coil, that alone does not justify the huge increase in price The SSA Gcon is a decent woofer, $229 it is the cheaper priced of the 3inch coil bunch. The SSA is oem'ed by Fi/AA for SSA, So you are getting the Fi/AA quality when you buy SSA. However again, only a 2 layer spider setup, and travel of 20mm one way (xmax) or 40mm both ways, which is better than the IA for sure. While it is a 3 inch coil woofer, its more than likely an aluminum round wire coil, which will generally take more power than a copper roundwire coil, but again the spiders come into play, and if they cant keep the coil traveling linear with that added power issues will arise. Another frightening issue with the SSA Gcon is the fact that it has floating tinsels, its a common problem for all too long now with this style tinsel leads creating tinsel slap meaning they hit the cone on the woofers back stroke often times wearing the tinsels thing until they fray apart. The felt pad you see on the cone is a band-aide for this issue, however over time the tinsel slap will break that felt pad down (seen it time and time again), another problem with them is under high excursion they can rip if your woofer is moving farther than it should due to too much power, or a bad box design. From my personal experience and customers Ive reconed woofers for and just all the installs Ive done Id never recommend any woofer with tinsels like this. However floating tinsels is cheaper to manufacture, and quicker... The Ascendant Audio Chaos, coming in at $279 and it weighs a few pounds more than the IA and SSA. Its packing a stronger magnet bolted to the basket. Also has 21mm of travel one way (xmax) or 42mm both ways, sure only 2mm more than the SSA both ways, and 6mm more than the IA both ways. While we are talking MM here, its actually a decent bit of travel, espceallily when you add that to the fact the AA Chaos is using 3 spiders it is easily going to handle the abuse or even more power than the IA and SSA, and less likely to fail under higher power usage. We again are looking at a 3inch aluminum coil, as well as being rated at 800watts rms, which is only 50watts rms more, but unlike the others its built to take that additional power with the additional spider and the tinsels that are ran between the spiders. Your not going to have no tinsel slap here, or tinsels breaking from over excursion since they are in between the spiders and move with them. You cant really go wrong with this woofer, especially since its only a little more than the SSA and a lot cheaper than the IA. This is your most bang for your buck while also having the added reliability! Both the Skar and Sundown woofers are also great bangers, Jacob owner of sundown was behind the design on both these woofers (as well as the obsidian audio woofers). The Sundown SA series is the strongest woofer of all 3 (which are the Obsidian, Skar, and Sundown). While the Skar looks so much beefier than the SA, the SA motor force is a good bit stronger as well as the softparts being used (tho they are very similar). If your after looks get the Skar, if you want all out performance and not so much worried about the magnet or basket looks that you cant see anyways when the woofer is inside the box get the skar. Ive had done many installs with both these woofers as well as a few recones to stronger "spl" coils. These 2.5inch voice coils are no joke they take power and take it well!!! You will have no problem giving them 900-1200+ watts rms IF your power is clean and unclipped and you have a proper built box. Just knowing what the SA woofer can do with my own experience Id have to put it as my number 2 pick in the list of these 5 woofers. So from best to least favorite in my own opinion would be. #1 - Ascendant Audio, Chaos #2 - Sundown Audio, SA #3 - SSA, GCON #4 - Skar, VVX #5 - Incriminator Audio Flatlyne (to be honest, I wouldnt even make this my 5th choice or even consider it ever).

Thanks guys!! And Katt, you and your emo man crush for justin... smh! LOL

The springfield XDs are nice, Id probably have to say one of my favorite pistols Ive shot to date, that are piratical in every day use and affordable to shoot.

The Sundown Audio E series woofers are rated for 400 Watts RMS each, so if you buy 2 of them, you would want dual 4 ohm coils. This way you can wire both coils on each woofer in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative), and than wire bother woofers together also in parallel. You will than be left with a final impedance of 1 ohm. So you will want to look for a 1ohm stable amplifier that will at least do 800 Watts RMS. I would strongly suggest going a little bit larger on the amplifier though. You should be looking to find an amp in the 1,200 Watts RMS to about 1,500 Watts RMS. All the Sundown woofers are severely underrated on power handling and are built to take more power than they rate them for, realistically you could probably put a clean 600-900 Watts RMS to each woofer in a perfect world. By the term "in a perfect world" I mean your box is built correctly to spec that the woofers ask for, you have a solid charging system, proper size wiring, a good AGM/Gel Cell battery, a properly tuned amplifier, etc. As others have said you may have voltage drop, and just because you wire your amplifier at 1 ohm does not mean its always going to play at 1 ohm. There is something called Impedance Rise or Box Rise (samething but some call it differently), Tho Im sure your not a competitor and Impedance rise is nothing to really be concerned with due to that, but it is great to know even if you never plan to goto a single competition ever.

Last time I recieved quotes from represenatives of DC Audio, Cactus sounds, and Digital Designs, and American Bass. All the amps that put out similar power all where about the same price. Just because the MSRP on one amplifier maybe more than another brand power for the same wattage, does not mean that is what car audio shops, online retailers or independent representatives of a said company actually sell the amps for. It called shopping around for the best price that can be found (normally from an authorized seller so you have a warranty on that new amplifier). Im getting very sick of talking down a brand of product because people claim its expensive when the prices are actually very fair! Its almost getting as bad as a person calling another person a nuthugger because they got mad that someone proved them wrong with fact while the other person had to start calling names.. Most of us are adults here or close too, its time to grow up! PS: I guess no one should buy Rockford Fosgate, Audison, Focal, Hertz, Morel, Arc Audio, and so many more!!! Want a good laugh? Sundown is so expensive you say.... But yet this 5000watt RMS Orion HCCA amp is $2,500! http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9412-hcca50001-orion-monoblock-5000w-hcca-series-amplifier.aspx Or this PowerBass 5000watt RMS amp is $1,999! http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9835-xta-5000d-powerbass-5000w-rms-xta-series-class-d-monoblock-amplifier.aspx But yet this overly expensive brand called Sundown Audio is selling their newest amp in the lineup called the NS-1 that is severely underrated and does well more than its 6500watts rms they rated it at and is only $1,899 which is cheaper than 2 amps that do less power.... Hmm how could that be?????? http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10767-ns-1-sundown-audio-monoblock-6500w-rms-mono-power-amplifier.aspx

Technically with many quality 80mil deadeners you dont need full coverage. Second Skin Damp Pro, AudioTechnix, Dynamat Extreme, Stinger RoadKill, all these will be fine with partial coverage, however people like over kill, thats the name of this game we play called car audio. Why have 12inch subs when you can have 18inch subs? Overkill! LoL Typically alone sound deadener is not going to stop most rattles caused, If your very limited on deadener right now, such as 20sq feet. My goal would be using it in your front doors, doing the actual inside metal of your doors outer door skin, as well as the inner bracing that your door panel bolts onto. Especially if you have some kick ass door pods or some very nice components in the front door. Get full coverage on those 2 front doors, than you never have to pull panels again to do more later down the road. If you just have some stock speakers or coaxles, go for your trunk and use the deadener there, until you have more money to buy more and do your doors.

I cried as soon as i seen the boooooooooooooooooomstick

Actually it is rule number 10 You can read all the rules for selling on the site here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/16-for-sale-car-audio-related-equipment-only/ While we can not stop attempted scammers, we do everything in our power to do so, hence why the rules and the 150post limit to sell. If a person does get scammed we have a great staff here in helping the user that got scammed and word gets around fast about the fraudlant user on other audio sites as well. Generally speaking, dont sell to any joe blow, make sure the buyer has a legit paypal account when they send payment, if they are not a certfied paypal member it takes minutes for them to do. Also use your gut feeling when buying/selling. Id trust a buyer/sell a lot more that has been active on this site for years with thousands of useful posts, vs a guy that just registered on the site and has 1 total post, and that 1 post is from him posting in your item for sale. Like above for example. Carry on

if you dont want people to buy from your ebay auction than dont list it here. So I made it simple since you dont want to pay ebay fees, i removed your link.. For sale section is to sell items for sale on this site. Not to link to an external site where it is being sold at, IE another forum or ebay or other such site.

eh a little r134a in the hozone never hurt anyone. I dont see how its so bad for a user fixing his own ac pump/line vs a certified shop that does half ass work. Example of my rear tahoe lines crapping out, and the same line on my tahoe leaking thru the hi pressure valve. The r134a was already out of the system due to the valve, and upon getting it charged i paid for vacuum testing. Needless to say it was recharged, lines where never checked for leaks and it all leaked back out in under a half day from the rear lines I didnt know where also bad at that time. If the shop would of vacuum tested the a/c unit prior to filling they wouldnt lost the 2-4lbs of r134a that was put into the system without a proper vacuum test before hand. edit, also when you reinstall that line you are taking off in the picture, make sure to use new o-rings on it. they are only a couple bucks, but you need to make sure it is sealed when you put it back on the a/c pump.

If you are making stickers and selling them for profit you need to be a vendor on the site. The for sale section is for users to buy/sell their gear. not for a person to start their own business. Its no different than previous decal makers on this site or other sites. If you want to slang your product and get your company out there pay up!! You can contact Tony / Snafu about becoming a partner. Thanks!

since we are showing boxes in chargers...

x2 But the funnier part is, how does he know the box will fit thru the trunk opening.. LMAO because I have built several trunk boxes for chargers, and on the last 2 boxes I had made a box out of cardboard to the external dimensions of my designs to ensure they fit. Telling you right now, 13inches was my max height and barley cleared, and the box was only 33wide, 35 wide is going to force you to have a stepper angle while installing the box, that stepper angle combined with a taller box may not give you the space to clear the top of the trunk lid opening... To the guy starting this thread, I would SEVERELY stress you to make a cardboard cutout box held together with tape to ensure it will fit. Its getting rather close to not fighting juding by a box that I just measure sitting in my house from a previous charger install.

Oh damn, when you sent me the spy photo earlier, you didnt show the 2nd mounting option, Im even liking that better yet would make give you so many more applications to mount and maybe even mold into your dash. Both mounting options included with the meter??

why would you waste the time, money, and deadener on the back of the seats?? Let me guess the other deadener you had installed is on the outside of the vehicle too?

it could be a bad power or ground. im more leaning towards a bad rca cable. maybe not visible but there could be a short or bad connection inside one of the rca plugs. it could even be the rca board inside your amp that may have broken loose and needs to be resoldered to the amps pcboard.