audiofanaticz

If you deleted all the programs and the file folders in the C/Program Files/ folders (because sometimes all files dont delete when something is uninstalled). Then everything you deleted will automaticaly go back to free space on your hard drive. So if you had 149gb of total space Only have 27.1gb of free space and just deleted an additional 40gb of stuff You should have 67.1gb of free space out of 149gb total. You should goto my computer, then right click on the C: drive and goto properties. It will tell you your free space. There is nothing special you have to do to gain more freespace back after deleting programs, old setup files, registry errors, temp files etc. Once deleted its gone and free space gained. The only other thing I can think of is if you delete 40gigs of crap you should do a disk defrag to move all your free space to the end of the drive. This wont gain any additional free space, but it will fix the broken gaps of free space and used space making your computer a tad faster while accessing the hard drive or opening programs, or even searching for files on the disk..

Haha Damn!!! I miss beats for my van at 154+db

Nice box!! Do I spy a Jet Table saw with a biesemeyer fence??

Bolt them to the windshield wipers.. After all they have a shitty ground so re-grounding them with wire and not the vehicle chassis will gain you valuable horsepower at the wiper motor for faster wiping of the wipers in tremendous down pours!

My boxes I build usually tend to be huge! Im talking 16-22 cubed for a pair of 18s after displacement and tune low with massive port area 14-16sq inches per cube. I only toss a little under rms of my woofers, but Ive gave more then rated rms in the past. The one thing Ive noticed time and time again is knowing your setup... If you get your woofers a bit hot and stinky dont shut them off, but keep them moving at a moderate volume to keep air moving around the coil. Proper set amplifiers is also a key essential. Generally smaller boxes will take lots of added power (over rms ratings) and also can get loud if all your after is a burp number.

I hate people that cut factory wires. It makes it near impossible to return the vehicle back to stock unless the factory wires are left someplace safe and have enough wire to reattach them, which is almost never the case. Id talk to the owner of the vehicle first and ask them if it is ok or if they mind you cutting factory radio wires.. Otherwise Id scotchlok the new radio harness into the factory harness and electical tap the ends of the factory wires.

LOL I know.... Im wishing I had spare deadener laying around right now, but since I dont I gave the idea out. lol but vids are a must for whoever that does it!

To know the true test of sound deadener you MUST sound deaden your lawn mower!

Final countdown intro = epic!

Still under construction and his first wall he ever built, not to shabby imo! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnL1msWNvrg That is all!

My professional opinion and how I do it is: Buy some sort of Eq, or signal processor that will accept 1 set of preouts in, and output 3 or more preouts out. My reason behind the need of the EQ or Processor is due to the fact that if your headunit only has 1 set of amp preouts, or no preouts at all and you are using a hi/lo output converter attached to your speaker wires your input signal to your amplifier(s) is 100% crap in most cases. You will have a low preout voltage and a very unbalanced input signal which is distorted to hell and back. Some links to some things that would be good examples. EQ's: Pioneer deq-9200 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_772_Pioneer+DEQ-9200.html Pioneer deq-7600 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_771_Pioneer+DEQ-7600.html Kicker KQ9 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_520_Kicker+KQ9+-03KQ9-.html AudioControl EQX http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7993_AudioControl+EQX+-COLOR-+GRAY-.html Processors: MTX ReQ http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9855_MTX+Audio+re-Q+-REQ-.html MTX ReQ-5 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10834_MTX+Audio+reQ-5+-re-Q+%3Csup%3E5%3C-sup%3E-.html Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7148_Rockford+Fosgate+3SIXTY.2+-UPC+-780687322953-.html Or browse for other cheaper end units that will still offer you 3 sets of pre outputs from only 1 set of input. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i20_sound-processors.html Either way, a EQ or Processor will clean your input signal, it will boost your preout signal (like a line driver), you will gain more preouts without Y cables that drastically reduce your already weak output voltages, and gives you abilities to shape your sound system frequencies to those you like by having a higher band eq then your low end headunit or factory radio. So I think this post deserves the /thread award. PS: Logan, while the maxx-link is decent at running multiple sub stage amplfiers it is completely useless for other amps used for the mids and high portions of your radio, and they dont last too long.. I need to order my 4th one here pretty soon..... I keep rattling them to death and having the rca output cups fall off.

Yes, true story..... LMAO! I wanted to be different then everyone else.... LOL It ran right thru my alpine 11band eq which boosts my preouts up to 4volts then the sub channel straight to my maxx-link which I have set for about 6.5volts... So everything was identical in the system except headunits. LOL I also tried a CDA-102 a week later for a external unit and was right on par with the cda-105 in the dash.

the alpine 205 sucks!!! I lost over 1 db using it for a external headunit for bassrace and db drag.. The alpine cda-105 which uses the same pre out voltage, and lack there of a eq settings. but over a db louder then the 204.. Even the newest top dollar alpine unit is crap.. It feels like its made from dual or jensen parts... buttons are cheap single color backdrops and illumination keys. None of the alpine flipouts or double dins offer usb, and me hating ipods needs my usb... or try to find a discontinued usb adapter that runs thru ai-net and dont hold a memory... yea right.... Ill get right on that. Alpine is really failing hard this year. Personally think the Pioneers or JVC headunits are the way to go according to cost, and options.

Check them out! You can comment & subscribe, Like or dislike, hate and bash! Videos are just for fun, hopefully yall will enjoy. Sorry they a tad long Another box opening video.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJPotQWaXSk And this video is more funny then the above one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwoVbGzylGg&feature=email

you should have no problems imo if your box is built correct

yessir! I have been using alpines for a while, even had a cda9833 that is still working to this day from 2004!! But my cda 105 is a great budget unit imo, and i have a pretty good setup imo and the headunit is the cheapest thing in it, but still works great, got a good price on it, never had a single issue and provides 3 sets of preouts ipod, usb, ai net for bluetooth and xm radio. Only dislike i got about it is it has a very basic eq, which dont matter since i run a external eq anyways. Check my youtube page out, you will see lots of videos of it being used. http://www.youtube.com/user/audiofanaticz Next headunit i buy tho will be the cda-117 im thinking tho!

So untrue!! Only glue the part of the recone that is coming undone. If the rest of the surround comes unglued down the road then fix that. If you pull the whole surround up your voice coil will no longer be centered in the gap correctly since not only the spider, but the surround keeps the voice coil linear. If you reglue the full surround at once there is a big chance you may glue it a tad out of line from where it use to be and it will pull the voice coil off to one side. Meaning your voice coil will not be 100% straight up and down, and will cause rubbing on one side or another!! If you do decide to pull the entire surround up, hopefully you can do so without ripping the surround where the glue is good and bonded well, which will most likely happen! And if you do get the surround up perfectly 100% around the whole speaker you will have to pull the dustcap off to shime the inside of the coil around the woofers gap, or like i said there is a very good possibility you may reglue it in the wrong spot. The spiders alone are not strong enough to keep it 100% linear imo especially when your pulling on the surround to get it up and then when your regluing it.. A normal thicker black ca glue is perfectly fine to use on surrounds.. I reconed I dont know how many brands of woofers using CA Glue for everything (surrounds, spiders, triple joints, dustcaps, etc) and never had a failure because of using ca glue. Many companies only send you CA Glue and Activator when you purchuse recones and glue to do the recone yourself. If you do use CA glue to reglue your surround id still let the woofer cure 100% over night (24hours) even if you use activator because the activator really only hardens the glue that is exposed. Plus this way with it sitting you know its fully cured and shouldnt have an issue. But if you only fix that 1/4th of the surround that has came unglued I think you would be fine laying a fat beat of CA glue along the basket, then spraying the back side of the surround with activator then quickly put he surround down and apply even pressure. However if you put the activator on the back side of the surround as soon as it touchs the CA it will be solid and you wont be able to move the surround. So you really only get 1 shot at it. Otherwise just ca glue along the basket, put the surround down, then spray activator on the glue that has oozed out from the side of the surround and basket, but then wait a good night for it to fully cure. Sorry for the essay, but I just want you to have correct information before you go and completly mess up your sub because someone with no experience thinks its perfectly fine to pull up your entire surround and the spider will hold it centered... Just 2 images i drew up quick incase you dont understand what Im saying. nothing spectacular, paint ftl! While the coil sits evenly centered in this picture with the surround and spiders glued down. They can become crooked by removing the entire surround off the basket and pulling the surround one way or another too far or just a tad can still move the axis of the coil and would end up sitting in the gap something like this. if it makes sense. The red lines is the coil and spiders. I gave up on trying to draw a cone and surround. LOls

alpine offers 2 headunits that are am/fm/ipod/usb only. no cd player. 1 of them is a nicer version of the other with a nice colored screen. cheaper one for 199$ http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17570_Alpine+iDA-X303.html Nicer version with a color screen and lots of options $299, out of your budget but a nice deck!! http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24287_Alpine+iDA-X305S.html I personally use a alpine cda 105, and love it. great low priced deck with lots of features!

1 crx 1 stock alt. 1 nsb 90 battery. 1 cactus sounds elt 12 12,000wrms 2 digital design 9512s

Oh, and you cant use 14 volts as a voltage standard, since that again is a variable, and 8 out of 10 vehicles see that kind of voltage with a cold alternator, let a lone a hot alternator. 13.5 is a more realistic number. As for your 70% efficiency rating. That is also wrong. That rating is based from Class D monoblock amplifiers rand at a 1 ohm impedance load. From 1 brand to another brand you could see a difference of +/- 10% if not more. And it will also be a variable due to impedance rise! He is currently running a alpine 1000watt amp. Which means its a older pdx.1000, or a mrp1000 either way those amps are not 1 ohm stable, and most likely he is running it at 2 ohms and its not just math... its not opinion, its EXPERIENCE. I dont know how many pairs of 10s and 12s i thru in a car with a 1000-2500wrms amp and 1/0 wiring with just a big 3 done if the customer would pay for the extra labor. No fancy alternator, no fancy battery, no 2nd battery and these cars did any where from 142-148db from the trunk of a car.

From your one post of saying you run a boss or pyle amp, I wont take any advice from you too serious. you have no amplifier that will ever put a strain on a 6 volt battery let alone a 12volt. LOL If your math is so right, how come my buddy can win north america finals with a 156.7db from 1 battery and the car off using a 12,000wrms amp. You should read this thread, you may learn a bit of good info: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/86606-wtf-is-up-with-people-thinking-they-need-2-alts-or-3-batteries/ There countless other professional installers that have been working for a shop for years, or own very well shops that will tell you 2000wrms is fine off 1 battery, let alone having a 230 amp dc power alternator, which being dc power im sure it will do close to 250-270 amps.

dont even worry about buying a battery. if its doing decently now, it will be doing better with the new alternator! Even with 2000wrms you should be fine imo. But at that time when you get the bigger amp or whatever you may want to buy a new AGM battery after depending on performance (like a XS Power, kinetik, deka, stinger, etc). Your BIGGEST concern after you put the new alternator in is upgrading your wiring under the hood. You should do the big 3 wiring (preferably in 1/0 wiring). Doing the big 3 upgrading the factory wires alone will make a HUGE difference without an alternator!! if you dont know what the big 3 is, you can find the thread stickied at the top of the page in this electrical subforum. Edit: PS: just re read what you are going to do, with keeping your alpine 1000watt amp powering 2 cvr 12s, and then getting a 2nd 1800watt amp to power a fi bl 15... That is 100% GHETTO It will not sound good since your cvr box is going to take up valuable room for the better fi bl subwoofer. not to mention its bad to mix different brand woofers together, let alone mix a different brand and size....

Oh man.. this is going to look like a very interesting build!! I have a few friends with astros and caravans currently doing 160s-165s legal, and the only time a burp vehicle impresses me is when they are in the 160 club. But what impresses me even more is when they tear out their high spl built wall and cross it into the loud demo machines!!!!!! looking forward to seeing some more of this!! Best of luck to you rusty and whoever else helps you along the way!

Simple. Learn how to drive and obey the rules of the road. You made your own bed, now sleep in it.

Nice looking subs Jacob!! Did you guys get the 4 nightshade v2 12s built for the kid in my town (sheboygan, wi) I got to run the awesome sundown products? I know he is wanting to get rid of his 2 cactus 5kw's too and get a pair of sundown saz-4500s due to the fact my amp runs so cool