Second Skin Rep Jon

With a $300-$350 budget, I would opt for the b-stock Damp Pro OR regular Damplifier to give you more material to achieve a higher percentage of coverage. Hit the roof, doors, and lift gate with the Damp/Damp Pro. Aim for 50%+ coverage (for SPL reasons). Once the vibration mat is installed, line the entire floor with LLP. Full coverage is needed for the best results. This will greatly lower the overall noise level inside the vehicle caused by exhaust, tire, and road noise. Rattles and squeaks, get some OverKill and install it behind all of the plastic trim. This will isolate the trim and stop the rattles. I haven't measured or came up with an estimate on square footage of a 2010 Jeep Cherokee, but I would say you'd be damn near close to your budget.

Go with a single layer. No need to double layer anything. Keep in mind out entry level Damplifier outperforms most other brands 'extreme' versions. Personally I'd go with the 40 sq. ft. of Damplifier and tackle more areas.

No problem. One of these days I should post my list of vehicles and their averages. It's a long list and would take a while to actually compile. But since each vehicle is different and a lot of it depends on what the goals are, these threads will continue to be made for a while.

mymanjojo, I would suggest getting as much of the roof treated as you possibly can. By creating somewhat of a barrier with the sound deadener this will help the roof withstand the air pressure caused by your Mayhems. Short of welding in reinforcements, this is a good alternative and easy enough to do for most people. I would also tackle the lift gate and all four doors with at least 25% coverage with sound deadener. Once that is complete, get some closed cell foam, such as our OverKill or other similar foam, and get it installed behind the the plastic trim pieces to further reduce rattles. This can be done at a later date if you want to do it in stages. splizaat, Just kick your buddy in the pants... if he's good at carpentry, just take your car over to him and spend the day measuring and mocking something up. It's been a while since I've built a box but I'm fairly certain within an hour you can have something halfway put together and start tweaking the design.

With a trunk setup planned like that, I would start with just doing a large portion of the trunk and trunk lid. If you want to do it in stages, I'd pick up 20 sq. ft. of material and just focus on the trunk. Apply 3 sq. ft. on each rear quarter panel. 8 sq. ft. on the floor of the trunk. 2-3 sq. ft. on the lid (remove the lid liner and apply it between the braces, not on them). And a bit on the rear deck as I am sure that will need some help. Reducing rattles can actually be done by just using some closed cell foam between the sheet metal and the plastic trim. This isolates the two from one another, thus eliminating the likelihood of them smacking against each other and producing rattles and squeaks. Of course applying some sound deadener prior to the closed cell foam will be even more beneficial as it will help reduce the panel resonance and improve the overall sound quality.

It really depends on your goals. Because killing rattles is different from improving sound quality and getting better SPL is different from both. Typically speaking 40 sq. ft. of sound deadener is about right for most cars and trucks to kill rattles and improve the overall sound of everything. Toss in some OverKill to further kill and prevent rattles and you'd be golden. If you want a better estimate, provide us with your goals/needs.

Nice video Steve! DjCrush, the LLP is actually quite rigid due to the nearly 1/4" thick mass loaded vinyl that is fused to the closed cell foam layer. That and the foam is quit stiff so it really doesn't feel squishy under carpet.

Bump before the sale ends and I hope everyone has a safe and fun 4th!

Thank you to everyone indeed! And thanks Ken!

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That is AWESOME to hear! Have any pics? Always love to see.

Considering you posted this in the Second Skin section, I would recommend Second Skin. When it comes to sound deadeners you have a lot of choices and unfortunately they are not all created equal. I have a short list of three or four other brands that I would ever consider using in addition to Damplifier and Damplifier Pro simply based on performance. So IF you want to go shopping and check out and compare different products I would suggest finding a product that has the following: - A thick 'constraining' foil layer. - 100% butyl rubber adhesive. Avoid everything that has asphalt or a mastic adhesive. - And avoid products that come on a roll. These are typically (I have yet to find one that isn't) rebadged roofing products that are being sold AS sound deadener. As for your dilemma, the car audio shop is correct, just turn it down and your problem will cease to be... but that isn't the only solution. I would look at treating your trunk and trunk lid with sound deadener. No more than 20 sq. ft. and you should be good to go.

What Emp said is correct. Alpha Damp was a joint venture product with the previous owner of Second Skin. As per the agreement as of June 1st. Second Skin is no longer selling/distributing Alpha. That's all. Nothing crazy.

Depends on what you are wanting to achieve and how much coverage you go with. If you want SPL, treat the entire roof. 100% coverage will use about 20 sq. ft. Typically speaking 40-60 sq. ft. will do the roof, hatch, and all four doors with a solid 30%+ coverage.

I'd probably go with with a Door Pack (13 sq. ft.). That should give you enough to achieve 25%+ coverage on the areas you have left (doors, roof, firewall). If you want to make sure you have enough grab a Trunk Pack (20 sq. ft.) instead OR check out the b-stock material, great price on an amazing amount of material. For the floor and rear wall I would get four to six sheets of Luxury Liner (not Pro). This should cover almost everything from the firewall to the rear wall.

Glad you love it! And I saw the video, much appreciated!

Will it do any good? Of course! It would definitely make your Tahoe feel and sound more solid if you do all four doors. Door speakers will sound better and it will also help quiet it down a little bit. I would also consider pitting a bit of cushioning like our OverKill between the door panel and the sheet metal to further reduce the rattles and what have you. dB wise, it's REALLY hard to put an actual figure on this simply because each setup is difference and each vehicle is different. I've seen some people achieve some significant gains and I've also seen some people lose a few... but again they ripped everything out and did things differently, so I'm not entirely sure if the sound deadener was the cause of the lose or not.

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Year, make, model? And where have you NOT applied RAAMMat? That will help estimate how much. The areas where you already have the Ensolite installed, I would use the LL. For the areas where you haven't treated yet, I would apply the Damp Pro and LLP.

LOL Thanks for the complement Kyle. Chaz, That sounds like a good plan to me too. The only thing that I might change is the hood. Adding some product to the hood helps, but not a whole lot. Just by doing the firewall with some Damplifier Pro b-stock and some LL/LLP would provide some really awesome results and I doubt treating the hood will provide much, if anything more. So I would treat the firewall (interior or engine side, your choice because you only need to treat one or the other not both) with some Damp Pro. Apply the LL/LLP to the interior side of the firewall, as well as the floor, and everywhere else. And do everything else you mentioned.

We do not have an Aussie dealer either, not that I am aware of at least. I've spoken with a few people who are within that area (New Plymouth) and there is a market... just no one has really jumped on board yet.

No problem, always glad to help. At the moment our shopping cart system is only available for US customers so we have to take care of international customers, such as yourself, via email. If you have any other questions or need further assistance, just let me know!