Joe X

Ok some nice 15s you can afford and there lots of them: http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=6 http://www.audioque.com/SDC-25-Series-Subwoofers_c_14.html

Still that mix potentially sound bad, another DD would be a great setup.

Mixing subs, and odd number of subs are not good ideas, if you ask me I would get two good 15"s

Ok so here is a design suggestion will reach F3 = 28Hz before cabin gain: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 2.607 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 12 in External Width = 41.75 in External Depth = 16 in Port Width = 3 1/2 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 37 1/2 x 10 1/2 Back = 41 3/4 x 10 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 14 1/2 x 10 1/2 Side 2 = 15 1/4 x 10 1/2 Top & Bottom = 41 3/4 x 16 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 11 x 10 1/2 Extension = 14 1/2 x 10 1/2 Brace = 4 x 10 1/2 A rectangular brace is recommended between the subs, any questions let me know.

Efficiency at low frequencies varies among subwoofers.

Post your maximum dims and I will give you a suggestion.

The SSA XCON can go real low, anything from TC Sounds will go down to the low 20s.. beware of drivers with high sensitivity since the most of them will need a huge box to perform low.

Fi is great, SQ alternatives you can look at are SSA ICON and if you are not looking for a lot of power the TC Sounds Epic ultra clean sounding and gets down to subsonic. The image dynamics iDMAX would be another one to look at but are rather expensive. Note though that a proper enclosure is necessary to make deep bass happen is better to start with your box dims.

I think the Type R's are excellent cheap subs that get loud and sound good doing it - and are cheap & easily available. if you are looking for a specific type of sound then research more, 200+ subs can make a real difference.

Narrow ports, low port area = whistling, lost power efficiency.

Leaning towards SQ, the Fi SSD for about 200 each.

For a low cost daily setup I think that is ok. With some more money you can get much better stuff.

Cutting about 25% of Vb is a big deal as far as the type of sound you will be getting from the sub in most cases which you would care about on a daily setup. You need to protect the sub of course but I was just curious, if not going by specs throwing a round number would seem daring to me. unless??

Right, so I am guessing you measured them once broken in??

Wrong 3.75 as listed by DC Audio. I believe that you missed the part that he is running 1 DC 12k amp bridged at .5 ohm to 2 Level 5s. He has the potential of haveing 4-5k per sub. Now I think that I might know a little bit about the entire line of DC subs and amps, and particularly this setup since I have been working with him to get this setup for over a year. I recommend 3ft3 net per sub becasue of the potential of the extra power. Now if you know more about these subs/amp and his setup than I do, please indulge me with your vast amout of knowledge. Yes you are right I did miss the amp infos..the 3.75 applies for around rated power. Unhappily I couldn't find any T/S parameters for this sub so no way to take a look at an excursion plot for hints.. how do you know 3 cubic feet is just the number?

Wrong 3.75 as listed by DC Audio.

DC Audio does not publish T/S parameters for their level 5 subwoofers.

Guess you were lucky enough to realize that before building. Got a guy that realized that on the way in.. pretty big box also. Kind of hard building inside the trunk. Think about it.

Flared ends can be purchsed separately but I couldn't find 6" ones unhappily.

So here is a suggestion on the new dims port/sub front or back firing: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 37 Hz Vb = 6.397 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted External Height = 16 in External Width = 39.375 in External Depth = 26 in Port Width = 6 1/8 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 39 3/8 x 16 Left & Right Sides = 23 3/4 x 14 1/2 Top & Bottom = 39 3/8 x 23 3/4 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 15 x 14 1/2 Let me know any quesions.

That amp will work ok, and yes they have the 6" PVC in Lowes, there are also ready made stuff from parts express if have some extra $$$ not that expensive.

}It you really need to use it. it gets really easy overtime. Not doing this on paper..ever..lol.

Unfortunately sensitivity is measured at 1KHz, high sensitivity subs perform well in huge boxes.The only way to vaguely determine which sub has potential for loundess is through modelling (using all the t/s parameters), use the free WinISD but then... it ignores completely the cabin effects inside your car, need better software for that.

Guess 3 cubes per sub will be good if your amp is strong, the two rod dowels as well as the double baffle are very important. Use flared ports thats also very important in this case. Let me know any questions. BTW nice subs for the money.

I've got [email protected] which is about right for those subs, displacement was set at 0.2cuft per sub. For a 33Hz tune change the port to 5" wide and 17.25 deep, add a second baffle on the top of the existing one and add top to bottom crossbracing (a couple 2" diam wood rod dowels) between each two subs. Those would be my suggestions.