Joe X

If you have fixed external dims you can't decide Vb, for a 35Hz tuning this could work: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35,01 Hz Vb = 4,34 ft^3 Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted External Height = 15 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 5 1/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 1/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 1 5/16 x 13 1/2

According to my calculations that box specs as follows: Vb = 1.60710989 cu.ft Fb = 34.7635301 Hz Here are the details: Individual driver displacement = 0.17 cu.ft Wood thickness = 0.75 in Port Diameter = 4 in Port area = 12.566368 sq.in Port lenght = 14.5 in Port displacement = 194.144102 cu.in Total driver displacement = 587.52 cu.in External volume = 2.84505208 cu.ft Gross internal volume = 2.05946181 cu.ft The port considered is non flared type (flush mounted PVC Pipe). One other thing to consider is the clearance of the internal end of the port which is below the recommended 1 diameter minimun.

Based on a 0.14 cubic feet driver displacement and 2 drivers you can build on these dimensions: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32,0 Hz Vb = 4,257 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 33 in External Depth = 25 in Port Width = 4 3/4 in Cut List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 33 x 15 Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 33 x 23 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 18 3/4 x 13 1/2 Extension = 5 1/2 x 13 1/2 I used a slightly wider port get passed the corner of the box since it was rather near to the back wall.

Sorry I see no screenshot or anything, a big port may take up too much of your effective internal volume, if you are confident of what you are doing good for you if not, post some external dims and I could give some suggestions.

Can you get a screenshot of the Torres showing the parameters, it's hard to understand why you say that you need a larger port area to fit the box, in any case your port does not need to go all across if that's your problem, if you can't upload the screenshot just give the external dims you intend to use.

Not tuned to 47Hz but tuned in a way that the response of the box peaks at 47Hz.

So check the sub upward option so that the port gets properly calculated and I would add a cross brace at least in the center of the baffle face.

Double thickness on the baffle face and some bracing are in order to say the least. Also if the port is in the same face as the subs, seems a tight fit. Probably some sketchup work on it will help you put things in proper light.

SPL boxes peak output are frequently in the 40s region, enclosures are usually tighter the subwoofers used are usually high Fs. Just to give you an idea.

Depends on the music you hear. You should seek an in car F3 that matches the lowest material you plan to listen which can be about 25Hz, the tuning of the box will depend on the sub you use, it's better to target F3.

Make sure the power you are giving is stable 12V at all times (both on the red and yellow lines), disconnect anything you have connected to the aux input, check that the USB port is clean, do a system reset or 30 sec full power down.

Nate, this is true, just a tad out of reach. I say run 2 SA-15's in that box on your current amp it should be fine. You can get them for a really good price. Right, they are $24 overbudget each but worth every penny for a 1KW rated SQ Sub. Will overtake the SAs in SQ.

2 Fi SSD15 will fit the space and your budget, are well known and respected SQ subwoofers.

It's the 2.25 + port displacement + driver displacement and that's the internal volume of the box not the external.

I am just saying that the front stage is massively underpowered and judging the performance of a system setup like that is not the way to go regardless. So I would recommend something like this: 6 cuft@38 Hz And as before power properly the coaxes. This is to go straight to 40-50, the suggestion by Ray above will be a more balanced approach.

So the model for your subs on your box specs and on a slightly above average cabin looks like this: Input power is per sub. It does peak but is not declining that fast into the midbass region, Of course this is not measured data but it doesn't show anything particularily unusual. To the very least you need a 50W RMS/channel amp to those coaxes just to try to even out response regardless of the peaking issue, you are delivering to them 14-16W on HU power.

Ok so what are the rest of the speakers on that silverado (and the amps for all speakers).

So it says that you have Hertz ESK 130, that's a 5" components, those usually start to kick in at 80-100Hz I'd say your gap is upper in frequency also, after all you said you tuned high and it didn't fix it looks more a gap in the 50-90 Hz region and not much below. I don't think going bandpass will help you with your problem, do you know for real the exact specs of the box you are using now??

Midbass drivers.

Fi SSD12 are 1000W RMS and are $204 each.. besides power handling they have superior sound quality.

If you listen to a lot of rap and also heavy you should tune low like 30-33 and the add some hefty midbass drivers, that will get you exactly what you are looking for.

You have 2 different issues that you should not confuse: 1) what enclosure is better for a particular sub. 2) what type of enclosure is better for a particular cabin For question 1 you calculate the following as a general rule: EBP = Fs/Qes <50 sealed. >100 Ported. between 50 and 100 you could use in either. For question 2 sealed will usually give you better transient response and lower group delay plus this: Since sealed has a roll-off of 12dB/octave and cabin gain raises at 12db/Octave starting at 50-90Hz you can get to cancel each other giving you a perfectly flat low frequency response. So properly used sealed is best for SQ. If your cabin is huge you can't get that and then ported is the better way to get bass.

Sub/amp combos: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewcat.php?category_id=103&from=857&sort_order=price_asc

The port displacement would be significantly higher, that's the prob.

10 sq inches of port per cube... wow but 32-35 is good for daily like fmedina said and box will also vary with power you plan to run I know it's 12-16 but I went by the Alpine manual multiply Vb x 4 and Port area X4, I mean I am hoping alpine knows what they are doing.. right??? Also they suggest to tune to 30Hz look it up... ok so where did you get 90sq inches of port from? im confused here Download SWR-1542D.pdf from somewhere look ay optimum ported enclosure and find that the recommended vent area per sub is 22.5 multiply that x 4 and you get 90 sqin, of course you have to calculate the lenght by formula.