ToNasty Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 145 ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 i been seeing people around here looking into buying these http://www.remybattery.com/deka-intimidator/9a34m-ct-agm-battery.aspx not saying they are better than xs but are way cheaper my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshade Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 The alt should always be the first thing that is done when upgrading your electrical. The reason being is the large agm car audio batteries that we use stress stock alternators to the point of failure. The reason is because they require such a high rate of amperage to recharge over a standard lead acid battery and it puts quite a bit of extra strain on the alt. Another reason why the alt should come first is because extra capacity from a battery is limited by how much the alt is able to charge. If your stock is 90 amps and your amp is pulling 150 you have already exceeded your alts capability and are beginning to drain your battery. With a 250 amp alt you would have the juice to throw 150 amps at the amplifier, run the accessories in the car, and have leftover amperage to charge the stock battery. This puts less strain on the battery while the alt does the job it is supposed to. Of course the big 3 is technically the first thing that should be done before a battery or an alt. Go with the alt first and thank me later! 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 What he said^ Batteries are just band aids.. 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 First the alt, 90 A is tiny for the car electrical +1300 watt. If you get a 250 amp alt you can back up your system complete with the alt. If you have a lead acid batt and lookin for a quality nicepriced AGM batt http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/144556-dont-seem-like-a-bad-deal/#entry2285159 here. "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebuck1919 Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 i am all for getting the alternator first, it doesnt matter what size battery or how many u get or who makes them if you cannot keep it/them properly charged i got my alternator first and havent looked back Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/152368-littlebuck1919s-feedback/#entry2177586 i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol 6/18/82 - 4/17/12 R.I.P. to my sister Shana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crandis16 Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 from personal experience I say battery. I got alt first and amp was still going into protect. I put battery in and no more protect. Then I fry alt on accident and only have battery, and I don't have any issues with protect. running stock 90a alt now and only ~750wrms My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 alt, same reason as nightshade gave you. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I guess no one looked at the thread I posted. Ed knows what he's talking about. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2loud4uboyz Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Didn't read all post lazy today. Me if battery is reading 12 volts. I would get alternator first with 3 three at same time. Only run system with engine running . Then save up for batterys. Don't forget you will want some zero wire to. When you play hard you pay hard that's just how it is in car audio. I where I 'm from time over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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