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What if an enclosure is too big for the subs?


Ektro

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I should have let my builder do the design and get the wood cut -_- ended up spending $90 on MDF trying to get it the design right and we still might have to put blocking in it to get the correct cubes.

He told me anytime he does DC builds, it's always harder than it has to be.

Why is harder to understand don't put DC subs in box too big. Bro your builder can't cut the wood? Your builder just went from legit, to really he's just your friend, right?

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I should have let my builder do the design and get the wood cut -_- ended up spending $90 on MDF trying to get it the design right and we still might have to put blocking in it to get the correct cubes.

He told me anytime he does DC builds, it's always harder than it has to be.

this is why i am the builder and designer...llol

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I think you'll find that most manufacturers "recommend" box sizes that are as small as possible as a marketing gimmick. It's far easier to sell a 15" woofer if you tell buyers that it'll work in 2-3 cube than if you tell them it'll want 5-7 cube to really get loud. Your average knuckle dragger that throws tons of money at this stuff wants as much cone area as possible, isn't willing to sacrifice space, and is easily impressed by inflated power handling claims.

I'd wager few of the people saying "you'll break the sub" have ever actually ran a 15" woofer in 5 cube. Assuming your tuning is right, I'd guess that the box will be fine. You may be a little peaky around tuning (but not knowing the peaks and nulls of the vehicle this may or may not even be bad) and you'll gain some efficiency. Generally speaking 25% increase in box volume is not going to be particularly dramatic. Correct tunning, sufficient port area, and solid construction are far more important in my book.

IMO if you're mechanically breaking a 15" woofer in a 5 cube box, you're being a total arsehole playing way below tuning or the sub isn't built properly. I'll go even farther and say that triple joints should be about the last thing to break if the sub is build properly with good quality parts and glues.

You seem pretty seem ignorant. 5 cubes is huge to most 15s. That is 18 territory as far as box size. Some subs are designed to do well in different volumes as well. And these companies most of us use on here, their recommended box size is dead on to perform well at rated and most cases up to double rms power. You must not do any testing because there is a clear behavioral change depending on who makes the sub with relation to box size.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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I think you'll find that most manufacturers "recommend" box sizes that are as small as possible as a marketing gimmick. It's far easier to sell a 15" woofer if you tell buyers that it'll work in 2-3 cube than if you tell them it'll want 5-7 cube to really get loud. Your average knuckle dragger that throws tons of money at this stuff wants as much cone area as possible, isn't willing to sacrifice space, and is easily impressed by inflated power handling claims.

I'd wager few of the people saying "you'll break the sub" have ever actually ran a 15" woofer in 5 cube. Assuming your tuning is right, I'd guess that the box will be fine. You may be a little peaky around tuning (but not knowing the peaks and nulls of the vehicle this may or may not even be bad) and you'll gain some efficiency. Generally speaking 25% increase in box volume is not going to be particularly dramatic. Correct tunning, sufficient port area, and solid construction are far more important in my book.

IMO if you're mechanically breaking a 15" woofer in a 5 cube box, you're being a total arsehole playing way below tuning or the sub isn't built properly. I'll go even farther and say that triple joints should be about the last thing to break if the sub is build properly with good quality parts and glues.

DC subs really do like small boxes. There marketing gimmik is making badass subs and amps. Hint hint triple joint gets tons of stress on big boy subs and boxes too big . Lets say the DC XL15 3cub box required at rms power. Now take the same sub and put in a 5 cube box and tell me the triple joints that last thing to break. May be the second or first depending on how many times the VC can hanldle being slammed into the back plate.

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i once put four 15's in a 24 cubic foot box and it did pretty good. Just sayin :) manufacture recommended 3 cubic feet per lol.

1997 subaru legacy outback

Four 15's in a almost wall

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp

Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets
Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass

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270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) 
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i once put four 15's in a 24 cubic foot box and it did pretty good. Just sayin :) manufacture recommended 3 cubic feet per lol.

low power?

jk, on the real though i got different subs than you and 5 cube per for 15" just sayin

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

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i once put four 15's in a 24 cubic foot box and it did pretty good. Just sayin :) manufacture recommended 3 cubic feet per lol.

I once put 6 18's in my car free air and it did pretty good. Just sayin, manufacturer recommended sealed enclosure.

:shrug:

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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