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Nathan @ XSpower

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Nathan @ XSpower last won the day on June 16 2014

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  1. I have a 2002 mercury mountaineer with just under 5k watts RMS and a 250A singer Hairpin alt. I can fit a D6500 or D3100 under my hood and was wondering what you would run as batteries in my setup. I have 2 runs of 1/0 power and ground to the back. I would like to listen to music with little voltage drop while driving and at idle if possible.

    Thanks

    Paul

    1. Ron36

      Ron36

      I have 5k RMS total with mids , I got a 250a ALT and 6 batteries still drop to to high 12's at stop lights . It's a game that's hard to win as long as u stay in the high 12's your fine . 

    2. WalledSonic

      WalledSonic

      Ran 6k with 240A alt and 4 batteries and i dropped to low 12s at stop lights. 

  2. Depends on the vehicle really. There is an application guide on the front page of the webstie 4xspower.com or you can download the XS Power apple or android app. Any mid size battery that you can get under the hood should work fine for you. Really just depends on what fits under the hood. A couple of other things I would also check is if the alternator is working properly and does the battery you have work fine if you charge it up with a battery charger. If you are playing your system at high levels 90% of the time you are driving, then the alternator never has time to charge the battery back up. Maybe try topping it off with a charger and see if that helps.
  3. We do have some sales rep companies that work for us. You are more than welcome to email [email protected] with what you had in mind and we will see what we can work out. I am sure there is something we can get going.
  4. 14V actually charger at 16.8V. As said above you would need two systems to run 12v and 14V.
  5. Depends on what is going on. Out of the box they have a little bow to them on the ends. If you have checked the charge voltage and made sure you are charging to high, then you may want to put a part # 500 on there. Just a heat shield that goes around the battery to help deflect the heat. You can get regular heat shields at any auto parts store also if you have one close to you.
  6. Ok a few things here to look at and think about. The least resistance and more surface are you have for your electrical to run through the better your performance will be. A couple more power and ground runs will not hurt you in any way. Always good to check out your equipment and make sure it is running the way it should be. In this case the batteries and alternator would be the first places to check. From the way it sounds all three are working the way they currently are designed to operate. If you want to get them checked out, then you can always go by an auto parts store (pepboys, autozone, advanced, etc...) and they can test everything for you. The thing to remember when doing this though is that you need your batteries fully charged before they run the tests, and some of the people running the tests at these places know less about how to actually test a battery than my 12 year old daughter does. It is an option though. They can also check your alt for you as well. I was going to tell you about the tow mode, but looks like you found that out. From what you have posted I think your batteries are probably ok, but they probably are not getting topped off with a charger. Remember alternators are not designed to fully charge your batteries like a charger will. Especially if you are playing your system running the batteries down most of the time when you are driving. Investing in a few more power and ground runs along with maybe an AGM battery charger will fix part of your problems, but the biggest issue you currently have is the PCM control on the vehicle. If you upgrade your stock grounds and you see that one of the factory grounds has a sensor around it MAKE SURE you keep that ground exactly the same. If you delete that sensor it can really screw you up.
  7. To be honest the cheapest way would be going through Global Mundi. If you tell them what you want they can order it and send it via their freight forwarder, which would make the shipping cost much less. If they can't get you taken care of though just let me know.
  8. 10-12 should be fine. The more you have the more capacity you have to pull from.
  9. You will see the same drop on the D1400 as you see on the D1600. You need to plan on 1 D1400 for ever 1500watts of power you have.
  10. The 3400 with a 551 iBar kit. Will be plenty of power and no issues in the cold. We actually have a company up in Canada that sees -20+ regularly in the winter that uses the 3400s in their machinery.
  11. D6500 and a set of 580s and you will be good to go.
  12. You were headed in the right direction before you got to the back battery. lol Here is the big thing though. Why add more to your system when you know you do not have enough power to run the system? Upgrade your electrical before you damage something first. I am not saying go buy a bank of batteries or anything, but you need to have stable electrical to run a system. It takes power to make power. If you are trying to save money then go with the XP series in the back. You will get a lot more power out of the XP than the 2400. Heck if you are looking at money only, then go with a deka or shuriken over the 2400. You will get better performance.
  13. When the charger is putting out 1-3amps you are in the absorption stage and the low amperage is just topping off the batteries. With a large bank it can do this for a few hours depending on the state of the batteries. The more batteries you have the longer it will do this. With a bank of 7 3100s I would charge on the 25amp mode. Will not make a huge difference, but 3.5amps per battery is better than 2.1amps per battery.
  14. It is our responsibility to get the customer a working product, and that didn't happen. Everything was within warranty period and no signs of customer abuse, so we are fixing the problem. Sorry about the issues to start with.
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