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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/12 in all areas

  1. hahaha the wife took the pics and sent them to me. I was at the shop when it arrived. I am home now but i used her pics anyway I had a feeling i was gonna hear about that haha
    3 points
  2. after just having my front bumper (and a few other parts) repainted last week, i am afraid to hit a bug.
    2 points
  3. Hey guys I didn't now whether t post this here or in the enclosures section but here we go. I would like to build a custom ported subwoofer box for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I have 36 inches wide to work with and 31 tall. Any help would be much appreciated. Oh and this is for 2 DC level 3s 15".
    1 point
  4. Looks sexy! I need one because this POS scosche is a distorted pos! ^^^FTL!
    1 point
  5. would be nice to see a this thing on a test bench or in a car testing the line out on a dd-1 or o-scope with a DMM volt reading to confirm it. not hating just saying. it is a nice piece for sure. if the test has already been done and a link is available that would be awesome. NEUMAN
    1 point
  6. Allows for people to connect amplifiers up in a car on a stock radio.
    1 point
  7. its like you just read my post about crappy line out converters lol finally a quality one
    1 point
  8. As of now -- none of our motors are linear to 60mm. Of course "not linear" doesn't mean someone can't force it to go that far. A Z v.3, for example, allows up to 47.5mm before the coil exits the gap on a stock coil and with the pole extension can get into the 50s before totally running out of steam as a coil will still push for a while after leaving the gap. We had one customer actually bottom a Z v.3 18" out -- which takes that full 47.5mm using "only" the 9.25" spider pack (which will now be available on our 12s -- and the 15s even bigger). So there is a nice cushion in there for the soft parts -- will relieve a TON of force from the triple joint, cone base, surround, and spider landing as it won't be tugging on anything even when pushed past what the motor can do. Also why I am working on a Z v.4 design with additional clearance as well In most "big boy" woofers based on 4 and 12-spoke frames you run into HARD spider or soft part limits well before the motor and coil are done -- which is when you see triple joint failures, spiders pulling off the frame, torn surrounds, etc. But we do have the option to push for linearity up to these new limits (which we will be doing as time goes on) -- of course we lose our safety cushion but that is what happens at the edge of performance
    1 point
  9. That's one of the many reasons why I don't like passing on narrow back roads
    1 point
  10. this video makes me think twice about how i drive. I don't do stupid shit, i totally try not to. BUT, with a car like mine, i know how easy it is to go from 50 to 130. In a split second. Especially if you have adrenaline and are passing someone like that. Like i said though, i don't get crazy with it, but you never know. That dip in the road got him......you never know when something like that lies ahead. Unless you know the road very well, i don't suggest this
    1 point
  11. dude, Bro, MY MAN.......those were GREAT video's. Thanks so much for taking the time to make them and post them up. Everything you said makes sense. In the end, if you have a line driver, chances are, your amps gains will be all the way down or barely up. That is because the gain is then properly matched to whatever is in front of it. In this case, the amp being fed PLENTY of input voltage. No need for extra gain and the dd-1 proved that. And like i been stressing, that is the gains one and only purpose. To be matched to its source's output. I don't know why people, especially people that should know better, are so hard headed and try to argue with me . But for the Ear-o-tuners, i will say this. Once you find your maximum non distorted output, and all gains are matched, it never hurts to turn them DOWN a little.......while tuning by ear, if you need to. Heck, thats why there is overlap tracks included . There's obviously more to tuning then just the DD-1. The ears will come into play for SURE. But, i will argue til i am blue in the face......a DD-1 OR an O-scope should always be your first step. Ear-o-tune away once you know you are safe!
    1 point
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