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this has been on my garage shelf for about 18yrs now, going on 19. If we were playing a game called "i bet i have something you don't have", i might win No, i won't drink it it has sediment at the bottom, if you look in the next pic you can see it . Not only that, i don't wanna crack it. I would throw up on the spot. Oh i can still pound back a FRESH one, but this one has rode it out too long and is probably pure poison.

Video 3 posted!

To answer the OP -- the Z v.4 line has been known to handle ~2x or so of it's rated power. A thermal failure is unlikely in most applications -- you would be more likely to damage the lead-wire via clipping or perhaps even damage the spider itself physically. In one of our test bench setups here (Jovanni's Golf) on a 3500D @ 0.5 ohm we saw these type of things before thermal failure. He did have a massive 3 cubic foot box for one 12" woofer, though, so a more reasonable box would largely eliminate the possibility of physical spider damage (2.25 or so seems to be pretty ideal in our testing so far). So just keep an eye on clipping and you can run a ton of power on them =)

Full Credit to Terry SooHoo from Paradyme Car Audio in Sacramento. He wrote this and i found it EXTREMELY useful and so should you if you care anything about the SQ in your ride: Enjoy!

Alright, Were looking to do some more shirts for 2014. Lets see what you graphics guys can come up with. We will pick the top 3 designs that are usable and you guys all all win a LV2 Subwoofer =] 1st place wins a pair of subwoofers, 2nd and 3rd both win 1 subwoofer With more power handling than before, the Level 2 is back and better than ever! This sub has everything you need in a daily driver except the cost. This is one of our greatest accomplishments. It starts out with a double-stacked FEA optimized motor. A chrome top plate and T yoke to keep it looking good. It has 22 mm of X-Max, progressive spider, 2.5" voice coil, cast basket, push terminals and a rating suggestion of 600w RMS/1200w peak power handling. This sub works great in sealed or ported enclosures and definitely gives you more bang for your buck! Made with high quality parts and hand built in the USA. Key Features • Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly • Multilayered polymer wide roll foam surround • Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo • 8” OD flat linear roll spider • Heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire sewn to the spider • Cast aluminum black frame • FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly - Fully CNC machined • Rubber mounting gasket • Chrome spring loaded push terminals • 2.5” Hi-temp copper voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former • Rubber magnet cover

hit the youtube icon in the lower right and it will play

do this one!! I want to at least see a version before this ends lol

Yea week it's good. Even less then week

Ill get a couple drawings up here, I draw more than I do digital art, that's ok yeah? I could scan it onto my comp and then find a program online or something that I could lay it on a shirt with. That's really cool Rusty that you do contests like this! One of the reasons I will always run DC is the impeccable customer service/customer interaction. Good products, good people, can't beat that!

here ya go Steve. got a bottle of tequila that's about 24 years old (give or take 2 years). 80 proof, never opened and worm on bottom still. growing up i always remembered seeing this bottle in my grandparents cabinets, usually way in the back behind the cereal. story behind it is my grandmother never believed that a worm can come in a tequila bottle so my grandpa and dad drove to either Mexico or Texas to get this. ( That's what i was always told) i just have it sitting in the cabinet. might open it one day to have a toast to old memory's to my grandpa. has Mexico liquor bottle molded on the bottom and the numbers 8 and 7 there under it.

shit must have turned to barley wine by now 80 proof haha

At lower power the Yellow spiders were about 2.5dB louder than the stock black ones; but at high power only 0.1-0.2 dB louder. So this means we need to look elsewhere to make gains -- such as stronger motors, tweaking the cabin and box, etc. Very cool information to have on hand, though, in case anyone is doing a lower clamped power class with a similar big 4th order

Holy hell. 16 pages of beating a dead horse to come up with.... zero new information. One thing I hadn't considered that Tony touched on (and that is annoying me now) is the markup. Yeah... aluminum is cheaper. And it very welll should be; becuase copper is trading ~ $3.25/lb right now while aluminum is more like $0.80/lb. That makes copper 4x as valuable yet CCA is only ~ 1/2 the price. Those bastards!!! CCA should be like, 50 cents a foot, damnit. In my world... I use what's close or what's cheap. And that's usually welding cable. It's f'n wire. I could not give two shits. But then again... I don't try to pass 500A through a single 20ft run of 1/0. I applaud the educational vids. They're sorely needed for some, redundant for some but uniteresting to most. Or is it disinteresting? Wake me when you get to the 600 level courses.

We need a who got banned thread. Lulz can't type

Nice practical examples! Since you're covering voltage/current in and out of various sources and loads, it might be handy to very quickly go over Kirchhoff's Voltage and Current laws. Or something along the lines of the conservation of power rules which you mostly covered by saying that the power out of the source = the power into the load. I've seen a lot of people on here confused about how power from a source gets distributed to more then one load. Never hurts to quote some laws (like Ohms Law already mentioned) since there are some people occasionally who think they can invent their own laws from time to time. While you're still on DC circuits, any plans on doing a practical example using an alternator, battery and an amplifier and explain how they interact? This especially ties into the conservation of power since there are a lot of inexperienced people running HUGE amps from a stock electrical system who are blaming the equipment because its blowing up. Just because you have a 10kW amp, doesn't mean that it magically produces that 10kW...

fixed To be honest, I never change my gain or sub level once set. I just live with the fact that some songs are louder than others, simple as that. I also do not use a bass knob for the same reason. Until Tony releases that neat little 1/2din VU meter you wont know when you've turned it up too much. So although turning the sub level/eq might help, you wont know when you've turned it up too much.