Leaderboard

Using an empty basket to predrill my holes. These screws are the best! I been using them for years. Drilling holes for the wires. There are 16 8ga wires that need to go to the trunk. Time to put these beasts in. At about 80lbs each, i am in for a workout! Now i did do some INTITIAL testing - only because i couldn't wait! This thing will have 2 DC Audio 9.0k subs @ 18v. Right now, due to having SO MANY 8ga wires to ghetto-twist together just to hear sound, i decided to try just 2 subs. I hooked them up to a CT Sounds 1400d that was on the bench. So give or take, 700 watts each, on 2 of 4 15's. Yes, only 2 subs working. Watch the video to see how it did. I am not sure when i will have more progress but you know i will update you if i have some! thanks for watching!

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They aren't the exact screws, but the ones I use are pretty meaty. Spax #14 multi material construction screw. Can get it from home depot, and it's the biggest size I can fit through my basket without having to drill it out. They come in a small green container with a clear plastic front cover

Welcome to the "project x" Toyota Tercel Uninterrupted Build Log - (UBL). This is a place where you will see JUST my pictures and my words, no talk in between. This way, it is easy to see everything! Here is the story: I have this 91' Toyota Tercel sitting there, with 2 cylinders still pumping out about 20hp of pure get up on a trailer power. I decided, i want to try something different. I am thinking i will wall this bitch all the way to the B-Pillar with a huge port and have some dont-give-a-shit fun with this car. In other words, its no Lexus ISF, i can do what i want, even if that is cut a hole, break glass, put sheet rock screws through the roof (with silicone for extra seal) (jokes ). This project is going to take some time. I wan't to do a 160 or better with it. I plan on using DC Audio Amps, possibly 2 or 4 9.0k's. I am going to focus on the enclosure first and use the entire trunk to power the beast. Now for my disclaimer. I have NO IDEA how the Tercel will meter. Some cars (CRX for example) are natural SPL number machines. They just WORK. The Tercel MIGHT do a big number, it might not. I can only try. So if i do all this work, and the number sucks, then ill just have to keep trying. I plan on showing just about every step and there will prob be some bumps in the road. I am willing to do whatever i gotta do though and i hope it at LEAST breaks the windshield :D Thanks to RUSTY at DC - i ordered up the Level 5 15's, and they were here in 3 days. And they are GORGEOUS. Just some early rough measurements to see what kind of space i have to work with. Not totally accurate but close enough to let me know my options.

I gotta new banner in my sig. I am sorry i can't afford to put a discount on everything i sell, just my own products. But they are good products Also, no sale on the RCA's. I just don't have enough in stock to support a sale like this. Feel free to check it out! Cool your amps with our new Temperature Monitor w/3 phase programmable fan output (built in)! The TM-1 is available in C and F! This is a MUST have for anyone serious about car audio. Cooling is important! http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products-28/smd-meters/smd-temperature-meters.html Don't forget the new OM-1's (output meter) and of course the hot selling VM-1 Analog LED Volt Meter. The fastest most accurate on the market. VM-1 HV (High voltage) for those charging above 15v! Ideal for serious db competitors running on 14-18v systems. http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-12v-volt-meter-smd-vm-1.html Can't forget the product that started it all - the Distortion Detector DD-1.... Followed by the must have CC-1 Crossover Calibrator. The IM-SG is a beast of it's own! Also, on all orders, just pay for basic ground shipping and i will upgrade you to 2nd day shipping (USA Only) That is another $8-12 dollars of an upgrade Also, it isn't just black Friday, it is black Friday WEEKEND. I am running this sale all the way through cyber Monday. Kyle says we are live as of right now Click the sig below! we start shipping Friday morning bright and early.

That's a crazy score for almost no power on those subs

Also interested in screws. Steve, if I may, what's your opinions on Spax screws? I love them personally, but maybe because I haven't experienced anything better yet.

First thing i had to do was find the old B-Pillar Plastic and re-install it. I plan on attaching the box to this to finish off my air-tight seal and make it look better as well. Before anyone asks, this thing passes the string test by 3/8" or more (with subs in place). The plastic back in place More fiberglass. The box has at least 2 layers, in some spots 3 of 19oz mat. I used standard glass for most of the inside of the box due to not having good sunlight able to reach the depths of the "cave". For smaller area's, i used SunFlash so i could see how good my UV light works. It works GREAT! Only problem is, you have to move the light around. I could def initely use a bigger light or more of these. For kick panels or small area's, its awesome though! This right here is the reason i like SMD Sunflash better then standard resin. I will be using this cup and brush for months. You can see how many i used just to do the inside with the normal stuff.

A first before starting any wall. Gotta black out the windows so you don't see none of the uglyness that is behind the wall. I did the side windows in plasti-dip and due to the size of the rear window and my lack of supplies....i had my tint guy (Mike from Tint 2k) come by. Anyhow, once that is done, i can start making this wall part of the car

This is a UBL (uninterrupted build log) - no comments (other then my own) and JUST pics! To leave a comment and join the discussion, click here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177546-project-x-the-smdc-audio-tercel-4-15-lvl-5-walled/ thanks! :)

After all of this dries, it will be ready to be placed back into the car.

Ok here we go - 16, 14" holes. This should be fun. LOL This thing is a SOLDIER. These boards are barely fastened in place. I am just constructing it to make sure it is going to work and THEN i am going to make it permanent. So if you see gaps and such, that is ONLY because the boards are MOSTLY just leaning on each other at this point. Time to glue it all together and start the process of putting the wall pieces together for good.

Ok after i decided i didn't have room for the BandPass that i had in mind, i was considering doing it like THIS. Now one thing about these boxes is they are loud and make a ton of wind....BUT, nothing sucks worse then an extremely loud vehicle that only does a 152 when it sounds like a 159. Back to the drawing board. I had to do the cardboard trick due to the bottom board being tapered along with the fender well. Works good enough - its getting glassed over anyway. These boards are barely fastened in place. I am just constructing it to make sure it is going to work and THEN i am going to make it permanent. So if you see gaps and such, that is ONLY because the boards are MOSTLY just leaning on each other at this point. Lets do the ported B-Pillar wall with large driver-side port. Should still get LOUD and maybe do a "better" number then other configurations. MAYBE. 2 Layers of 3/4" and 2 Layers of 1". Then a 2x4 frame around everything. This will help separate the rear cone of the woofer as well as add rigidity. Plus it will give me a way to fasten my baffle to the rest of the wall.

You might notice the hole i cut in the bottom platform. I did that because once i build this wall, if the fuel pump goes out, i am FUXOR'D. So i am making an access panel, just in case. It's a 91 that barely runs, so i don't doubt the fuel pump is halfway dead I originally wanted to do 4 18's but after using my empty baskets, i determined there isn't much room to do that. I decided on 2 15's than said FUCK IT and got 4.

Tuned to see this will it make Autorama?

They look pretty damn good to me. Just wondering are you gonna continue the smoked theme later on and maybe Lamin-x the headlights or keep them clear??