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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/23 in all areas

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. Who cares if you “need” 5gig. You want it you get it. I’d shank my mother for that kind of infrastructure.
    2 points
  15. Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!
    2 points
  16. finally got started on it heres some pics form today tipping out the trunk build and starting to mock panels up front baffle will be tripple thick with dbl layer everywere else inner panels are a lil bit cheaper ply with the outer layers being 13 ply layout is going to be 3 subs across the top , and 2 on the bottoms on left and right of the baffle with a 225sqin swapable slot port tuned for 28hz for daily use and more then likley 45hz for burping
    1 point
  17. When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.
    1 point
  18. for the smal info that i could find, its a us made sub, 800 w rms each, dont quote me on that lol so 2 12" with 1600 w rms is a nice sub to have for a daily....
    1 point
  19. The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse. So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses. And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running looking at the math Power = 120A x 13V = 1560W or just above the power rating. For 60A fuse: Power = 60A x 13V = 780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power). Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that. I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving. If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.
    1 point
  20. Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure. I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power". But good luck to your goal mate.
    1 point
  21. I still cant get over how huge those 4090s are LOL. Like putting an cinderblock on your motherboard.
    1 point
  22. dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.
    1 point
  23. Yes that was the one to get (didn't know about the V2) will be much better off than with a full bridge, except for the size, let us know how you got it done, don't know if a seat lift can help making room for all the stuff you want there and the amp. Also hopefully you don't get another D1 sub by itself and save yourself from some headaches.
    1 point
  24. The Ultimate Bass Sweep Torture Testing Sundown Audio 8" Subs - Major Excursion Inside!
    1 point
  25. Gigantic Custom Ford F450 Grill Emblem & Laser Cut Polished Stainless steel Suspension Parts
    1 point
  26. Incriminator Audio IA20.1 Certified Power ⚡️Dyno Tested at 1/2 ohm 😳 (Amp Test Tuesday Shorts)
    1 point
  27. The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.
    1 point
  28. There is a thread, though it maybe buried now that has a bunch of radios that people tested with the dd-1 for max undistorted volume. you will probably have to search for it though. If the radio is not showing distortion direct through the rca's or while attached to an amp with the gain at 0 when you use a 0db tone for 40hz and 1000hz then it is safe to say the radio is distortion free at max volume through the rca preouts. In that case then set your amp(s) using your desired overlap -5, -10, etc db level at the maximum headunit volume. You could use a lower volume if you really wanted but it won't change much except the fact that the radios preout voltages (5 volts as you said in your case) typically wont be achieved unless the volume is all the way up. So if your volume goes to 40 and its clean at 40 you will get 5 volts preout voltage, but say if it goes to 40 but you set it to 20 to tune your amps then your rca preout voltage will only be 2.5volts or there abouts which will require you to increase the gain on the amp to compensate for that lower signal due to having lesser preout voltage. So you should just use the max cleanest volume.
    1 point
  29. Some but not all headunits will not distort at max volume when only using rca preouts. Now if you're using the internal amp of the headunit that will usually distort long before the rca preouts will so you will want to use that as your max volume setting.
    1 point
  30. Ridiculous peak to peak subwoofer flex 🔊💪🏽 Sundown Audio pushed to its limits
    1 point
  31. Trinity Audio H Series 15” Sub 🔊 pushed hard! Woofer Flex inside 👈🏽
    1 point
  32. That is not normal. Your car is possessed most likely.
    1 point
  33. You connect your head unit's REAR AUDIO OUT outputs to the MAIN-IN inputs of the EQ and you are done.
    1 point
  34. Soulgasm BASS Build 16 15" Subs "50,000 sum-odd watts" 6th Order Bandpass Wall As Caged As it Gets!
    1 point
  35. The previous PC i have been running for 3 years (see the build in this section) was still going strong. I ended up putting 2 3090 RTX in SLI (NV Link) in it last year and it is still smoking fast, with no problems at all. The only NEW problem I have is that at my new house (we moved 2 years ago) we just got fiber internet here. I ordered the 5gigabit service. It's supposed to be 5000 down and 5000 up. I know, major overkill. I could do with much less. But i wanted the best after 2 years of being on a HOTSPOT, several OTHER cellular based internet services and Starlink. They got me by but now the real internet is here I went all out. The problem is, my PC, even though it says "2.5 killer ethernet" on the back, they are only capable of 1000/1000. That is still very nice. But not enough. I bought a 10g PCIE NIC to try and get the bigger numbers, but it wouldn't fit. The video cards take 3 bays each and hog the entire board. I can't get to the last open PCIE. So the next logical step is to get a new mainboard that can. Scratch that. Might as well build a new PC if i am going to do all that. So here are the specs of the 2023 Godlike build. Corsair 7000D Airflow Full Tower MSI Meg Z590 Godlike Motherboard EVGA Supernova 1600w Platinum PS Intel Core i9 11900k Corsair H170i Elite Capellix Liquid Cpu cooler 128 G Skill Trident Z Neo 128g Ram Asus ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC Edition GPU Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (main) Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 860 Evo m.2 2TB Samsung 850 Evo SSD 1TB Samsung 840 Evo SSD 1TB Seagate HDD 3TB Seagate HDD 2TB (3) Alienware 38" 3840x1600 @ 144hz 1ms (in Surround mode @ 11520x1600)
    1 point
  36. Here are 3 suggestions that will fit: For a high output daily use the Sundown Uv2 10 on 2K. For a SQL type of sound use the SSA GCON 10 on 1.5K. For sound quality flatter presentation (like.. I think I have a sub back there) you can use the 10W7AE-3 on 800W (may need a MDF ring).
    1 point
  37. Hi Karkov, long time no see, honestly I would avoid a 10" sub at all costs, they are extremely inefficient and the box size is not that different, so your box is about 1.35-1.4 before sub displacement, a standard box for a DC Audio 12" is 1.5 net so almost same box size being the 12" much louder for the watt, it looks like Fi simply does not make 10" subs anymore likely for that reason. If you still want to use that box simplest would be reverse mount the sub if you don't want to sand a little the mounting hole of the box, if you want to use a sub with a lesser mounting hole diameter you can use a MDF ring to install it. Your port area is limited also so subs above 2K and high excursion subs like Sundown X will find themselves in a low port area box, if you are interested in a particular sub post below and I will check it for you.
    1 point
  38. I found the maker of the 20 spot headway build that Parker used in the pic. https://www.coventrycaraudio.com/product-page/headway-lithium-battery-bus-bars Sadly id have to sell the LTO build at a good loss to be able to buy a 200ah set of bars. But another set of jims non polished 96aH basic bars is only $160 which i can afford. So ill be thinking and see what the new system may need power wise. Thank you for all your help! Das
    1 point
  39. tore out the seats n stuff from the back of the car today and got the box painted and reinstalled think im going to put the subs facing the back of the trunk again because my slot port is on the face of the box and now its kind of firing directly into the rear wall there . as far as the amps i was thinking originally i was going to do the 4x 1200.1's across the bottom and the 2x 600.4's on a dual angled floating amp rack in the opening to the trunk. but now im thinking about putting the one 600.4 in the middle of the 1200.1's which would look cool when i put the lid on the amp rack with the lexan windows over each amp , and then finally put the last 600.4 in the trunk opening on an angled floating rack
    1 point
  40. time to put the box in…although it may come back out for more @Second Skinsound deadener soon!
    1 point
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