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getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

finally got started on it heres some pics form today tipping out the trunk build and starting to mock panels up front baffle will be tripple thick with dbl layer everywere else inner panels are a lil bit cheaper ply with the outer layers being 13 ply layout is going to be 3 subs across the top , and 2 on the bottoms on left and right of the baffle with a 225sqin swapable slot port tuned for 28hz for daily use and more then likley 45hz for burping

I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had. We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate

The Audio Control is the right path for the cars with the infotainment systems. I am in the process of doing this exact same thing in my VW GTI and will be using the Audio Control LC6i. I used this in the previous version of VW that I had without issue and was pleased with the results. If you want to take it a step further by using the DM-810 that would be an awesome processor to add to the system to give you full active control. They can be a bit to tune, but well worth the effort as the result will give you the best possible sound to your liking.

Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.

When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.

Subs get stinky when they had enough power, but I wouldn't try that method on type rs, that is a method more adequate for SPL drivers. BTW make very sure you entered valid data to WinISD or you may be led to the wrong conclusions.

The new swr 12d4 will work on smaller boxes than previous versions, to determine the volume to use enter both the old and new models in winISD and change the volume of the new version to approximately match the curve the 2.1 cubes plot of the old one you have and use the same port area you had in your old box. Of course you need to check the excursion plot at the power you intend to use your new subs to be within Xmax, now you can build to the specs you just obtained.

Haven't been here in a minute. I hope everyone is doing well and having a great start to the new year!

Swapped it without losing a single piece of resolution, thank you so much!!!

You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.

You can forget about impedance rise, as long as you are not a competitor or you are not fine tuning an exotic type of enclosure, you just need to have a good working electrical system that is in the level of the amp you are using, good wiring correctly installed, a good amp that does the power it claims, and proper gain settings procedures, it is worth learning about that as well as owning a cheap little scope or a DD-1, if you can source 2K to your subs you will see a big jump in output and you will be pretty satisfied with the results.

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse. So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses. And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running looking at the math Power = 120A x 13V = 1560W or just above the power rating. For 60A fuse: Power = 60A x 13V = 780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power). Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that. I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving. If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

How much power are you looking for? Look up CT Sounds. They typically have sales/discounts running and amps are proven to do rated power as well as being great value.

I just built my last rig not to long ago and I am already at it again. The reason I chose the parts for the last build was due to not having a mainboard that could support my new 5gig Fiber internet. There wasn't many boards in the latest gen at the time that had what I needed. You can see that build here **** This link below is the OLD 11th Gen build that is now my VR rig, you can see the NEW 14th gen if you keep scrolling**** While that build worked GREAT, I also have another issue. I have a Valve Index VR setup. My main PC runs 3 monitors and every time I want to use VR I have to unplug display ports and restart the PC. When I am done I have to plug it all back in and restart the PC again. And then after that I have to reset my monitor configuration because it flips out when I start making changes like that. Easy to put back, but a pain none the less. I just want to pick the headset up and use it without all that drama. So I decided I wanted a PC dedicated JUST for my VR. My first choice was a gaming laptop. I have one I use all the time that has an RTX 2070 in it. I plugged it in and it works pretty good (for VR). The only problem is for fast games like VR racing, it is pretty weak. Not anywhere near the quality of my PC. So I decided to build another gaming rig instead that I can dedicate to that. While trying to figure out what I was going to use for the build, I decided that my "old" rig from March (2023) with the 11th gen could be the perfect tower instead and I can build a NEW NEW for my main rig instead. I also have a spare RTX 3090 not being used that I spent $2500 on during covid lockdown. So my VR PC will be my "old" PC with a 3090 in it and I will take my 4090 and put it in the new rig since it is still the latest card. A little confusing but it might make sense by the time I am done with both of them. New build: CORSAIR iCUE 7000X RGB Full-Tower ATX MSI Meg Z790 Godlike Max Motherboard EVGA Supernova 1600 P+, 80+ Platinum 1600W PS Intel Core i9 14900k Corsair H150i Elite Capellix Liquid Cpu cooler 128G Corsair Vengeance DDR5 Asus ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC Edition GPU Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (main) Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (3) Alienware 38" 3840x1600 @ 144hz 1ms (in Surround mode @ 11520x1600) I g

I still cant get over how huge those 4090s are LOL. Like putting an cinderblock on your motherboard.

What is the vehicle?

Yes that was the one to get (didn't know about the V2) will be much better off than with a full bridge, except for the size, let us know how you got it done, don't know if a seat lift can help making room for all the stuff you want there and the amp. Also hopefully you don't get another D1 sub by itself and save yourself from some headaches.

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

Looks solid! ------------------- I think you're on the right track using tinned OFC for exterior wire, but saving a few bucks using raw OFC for interior. Nothing wrong there. Nice to see another hydraulic crimper user. Only thing I'd add is to mind the lugs you use. Closed ended, tinned copper lugs are the way to go. Solder and crimp lugs are quite different! For heat shrink on exterior wiring: Make sure ya grab adhesive lined. Or, if that's not in the cards for one reason or another, you can get away by putting a thin layer of high temp hot glue over the area, then putting the heat shrink over that and warming until the glue melts and oozes out. Not as cheesy as it sounds, that's all the weather-sealed heat shrink is - just pre-applied for ease of use. I'd also get some wiring loom to add some protection to the cable. Bumps and abrasion can take their toll over the years. Get the woven variety - less apt to trap and hold moisture than the plastic corrugated stuff. ------------------- Other notes: - Don't forget the grommet when passing wires into the vehicle. Butyl putty is awesome for sealing stuff up and excluding salt/moisture long-term. It doesn't cure - stays soft like chewing gum. - Can also consider a pass-thru bulkhead if that's up your alley - Alternator wise, mechman, singer are the favorites. I've used DC power and been happy but that was many years ago. Not sure where they stand now

You can also setup your gains low making sure power delivered is within drivers specs. No one is to say if that distorted signal will make any difference, It's all about being prepared to prevent a bad outcome. Much luck and if you have any other questions let us know.

For the port size and length you should model the enclosure in a program like winisd that will show you the port air velocity and excursion so you can see how different sizes of port will effect how it all performs. You don't need anything to direct the airflow to the ports except for a flared end piece. Keep the end of the port away from the back wall by at least the diameter of the port. I.E. a 4 inch diameter port should have at least 4 inches clearance at the end of the port.

First time posting here! Just wanted to say hello to everyone! Most of all, I want to give a shoutout to Steve Meade & his crew! They are a great group of people!

Regardless of the issues you may have two 12s in such a big vehicle is too little cone area for such a big vehicle, SUVs need at least 2 15s in a highly efficient enclosure to get decently loud. Of course if your enclosure is bad and / or your installation / settings are no good performance will be bad regardless of what you own.

The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.

got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on

Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.

Some but not all headunits will not distort at max volume when only using rca preouts. Now if you're using the internal amp of the headunit that will usually distort long before the rca preouts will so you will want to use that as your max volume setting.

You need to specify what's your vehicle, what is the sub model the box specs and some pictures if possible. Looks like a box issue, installing a DSP could help flatten your response but not the other issues, in some situations inverting the phase of the signal to the subs can help some cancellation issues, other times box location / sub, port firing direction etc can help. try what is suggested and if you still not get results then provide the details I asked about above.

figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around

I can't believe I remembered my old logins! I haven't done audio in YEARS! But I just grabbed me my first (fixer upper) SUV and was like, "Back in the day, I always said I'd do something crazy if I got me an SUV." This is the only audio forum I've ever been a part of so... Here I am, checking you guys out lol. Coincidentally, I asked this same question as I was typing the website in 😂. To answer your question though, I got away from audio and started building me some "fast" stuff. I got this SUV with a blown head gasket for the winter just to have a 4wd beater so I didn't have to drive my fun cars in the crappy weather. Once I did the gasket, that itch came back like crazy, VERY QUICKLY lol. So Im now actively installing some old stuff that I had in plastic from the last car I did audio in, God knows how long ago, just hoping it'll hold me over and not make me wanna spend some money 😂 But, Hi all! Good to see y'all AND the site are still kicking!

Those subs indeed need their space 4 to 6 cubic feet per driver is what they usually are given for ported use, if will use those in your room rather than a car tuning should be in the mid 20s not in the mid 30 which is what is given for car use. It all depends on the application, you will need to be more specific on your dimensions, music you play, or movies or whatever you are doing with them, how are you powering the subs, etc.

Passive crossovers are custom to the drivers they come with, both crossover points and attenuation levels need to match the drivers being used. Wish you luck getting that sounding right.

WHATS UP EVERYONE NEW MEMBER HERE. IM JOING THE FORUM TO DOCUMENT MY BUILD AND FOR ANY HELP AND/OR TIPS ANYONE CAN GIVE ME AS THIS IS MY FIRST "OFFICIAL" BUILD. REALLY AIMING FOR SQ I THINK ON THIS NOT REALLY SURE SINCE EL CAMINOS ARE SO COMPACT ON THE INSIDE ANY SUB WILL SOUND GREAT AND LOUD AS HELL LOL. BEFORE REDOING THE SYSTEM I HAD 2 3.5 speakers in the dash, 2 tweeters on the A pillars and a 12in p2 behind the seat. NOW IM LOOKING TO DO IT RIGHT SO BELOW IS EVERYTHING IM PLANNING ON RUNNING. SO FAR THE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T DECIDED ON IS THE NEW AMP FOR MY SUBS AND THE MIDS THAT I'LL BE RUNNING IN MY DASH ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED. A Pillar: 2 - tweeters from morel maximo comp set (ran active) DASH: 2 - 3.5in Speakers Mid (Ran Active) DOOR PANELS(ea.): 2 Morel Maximo 6 comp Ran active (only will use one set of tweeters which will be Ran to the A Pillars) Subwoofers: 2 Alpine S-W10d4 DSP: Dayton Audio DSP AMPS: Dash and Tweeters: 4/2 channel Undecided Door Panels: Pioneer Gm-Dx874 1200w 4ch I WILL RUN ALL THE DOOR SPEAKERS AS 4ohm unless it's convenient to wire them parallel and run them as 2ohm saving me two channels to use for the dash and only needing a compact 2ch for my tweeters SUBWOOFER: Rockford Fosgate 5001xd AS OF RIGHT NOW ILL RUN THEM IN PARALLEL SO THAT ITS 2ohm AND GETTING 600 RMS BUT THATS REALLY UNDERPOWERING IT IMO. LOOKING FOR A A MONO BLOCK THATS ABOUT A 1000watt rms Also here's a link to the box i made online im thinking of building as is fits right into the Elcos smuggler box. Is it a good design? thinking of making a new one but the design won't have the sub facing the back of the seat they'll be facing into the smuggler box and im unsure how that will sound and play into effect because i'm planing on having one of these boxes on each side of the smuggler box in the corner (for sq). https://subbox.pro/en/b/4tisUQAUi

If you have a subpar electrical you can go with this: Rockford Fosgate Power T1500-1BDCP It will give you like 1200W at 4 ohm and close to 2K at 2 ohm, it is expensive unfortunately but it can work on bad electrical also fits 4AWG cable. There are cheaper alternatives, Taramps smart 3 bass and the SIA series from sundown BUT full bridge amps need costly perfect electrical, 12.5 V minimum under max load or these amps can get damaged. These type of amps better leave alone in entry level systems.

got the 3rd sub amp in and have the subs firing back into the cabin , am going to a compition this saturday so need to pick up another sono tube to cut down for a higher tuned port , lil scared i might loose the windshield , video below is very low power

I agree with you

time to put the box in…although it may come back out for more @Second Skinsound deadener soon!