Dafaseles

Is one of those things that aren't particularly hard to do, it just takes a good amount of time to get it right

Hurry up! Wanna see it!

After you get the enclosure built, try the sub both ways. See which way sounds better to you

Some people choose to the wire even when going into the amplifier. Which is fine. That would be a 350-400a fuse per run. I like to do it to the manufacturers specifications so if you need to send it back for any reason, they can't tell you that you installed it incorrectly. So, me personally, I would put a 150-200a fuse on each run because I've never seen a 115a ANL fuse

That's so f-cking dope!

I would just slap it in the charger really quick. If it's completely full, the charger should tell you. That charger shouldn't overcharge it

I've seen a lot of guys first make a beauty panel with thick wood as close to perfectly cut as they can, then use expanding foam. I'm not sure what kind of foam exactly though. I'm sure it's something specific

I'm sorry, I was talking about the voltage controller on my truck. Not external. But you've already helped me. I was talking to you through email yesterday. Thanks again! I really appreciate it!

What's hard about it? I'm going to need to do the same thing..... eventually🤣

Damn lol. Hopefully you didn't cook them. If you had a HPF for them on your head unit, I would have just set that. Or took the door panel off and disconnected them at the speaker

unplug the speakers from the amp

It is possible that your head unit doesn't distort. Just some things to check. It's the eq set to flat on the head unit? Does the 40 hz detection light come on in the unit? Have you tried 40 hz and 1000 hz? Does the unit have a fresh, name brand, strong battery? What LOC are you using? (Im guessing it's the clarion?) Does the LOC have a gain? Is that gain in the LOC set correctly? Does the LOC have the function where it corrects the output signal of the stock head unit so it is, and remains, a flat signal? (A lot of vehicles nowadays manipulate the head unit signal so the crappy, paper, stock speakers sound ok, but are protected from lower signals. As you turn up the volume, it'll actually cut the lower frequencies more to protect the stock speakers)

A little blink here and there isn't anything to worry about. It's just a soft clip. The voice coil can usually dissipate that extra heat pretty quickly. The more it happens, the more worried you should be though

A hard, light stays on clip? Or, blink every now and again type clip?

Well, batteries will also help the alternator hold the voltage as well. The electricity is coming from wherever the amplifiers can pull it from. I should have asked you this before, but what voltage are you dipping to? Really, if it's not under 12 volts, it's not really anything to worry about and you're clipping for a different reason. And I'd change that CCA stuff out to OFC or welding wire. Watching some comparison videos on YouTube, CCA doesn't transfer voltage anywhere near as well as pure copper or OFC. Just remember, if you go welding cable, to up the size. 1/0 OFC car audio cable is about the same size as 2/0 welding cable

Well, yeah. With a single smart 3, and that 320 alternator, I would run 2 80ah or more AGM's (or a decent lithium). Regardless of how many ohms you have the subs set to. Those amps are power hungry. The fuses are only to keep the amplifier from receiving too much current. If your voltage is dropping, then your not supplying the amplifier with enough current. So no, the fuses wouldn't blow. Absolutely more electrical will help with clipping. Basically the amplifier is trying to produce "3000 watts", but it doesn't have the power to make it. So it's still trying, but not able to, so it ends up clipping or trying to exceed its electrical capabilites. Also, what size wire do you have going into the smart 3? The manual says 4 awg, but a lot of things I've read says that amp still needs 1/0.

Well, usually what I've seen people in my position do is go externally regulated alternator, and completely bypass the controller. Then just do the big 3 like normal.

That would actually help a lot! Lol

@MECHMANI have a question you might be able to help me with. I'll try to keep it as short as possible. I am putting a system into a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Installed, I have a Mechman Elite 370 (about 5 or 6 years old). My truck has the voltage regulator controller in between the battery negative and the engine block ground. I read from a piece of Mechman literature, and I've also seen Mr. Meade talk about it in his escalade, that because of the voltage controller, you shouldn't ground anything to the frame, and instead of a big 3 upgrade, it would be more like a big 2 upgrade. My question is about my plan to ground everything. If it's right and will it be sufficient. I won't be running a battery under the hood, just a lithium battery in the bed with the amps and the subwoofer enclosure, so I have a battery delete setup in the stock battery location. Amplifiers are 2 Sundown SALT 4's, a Cresendo C2000.4D, and a Cresendo S1 (880.4). The positive side is just 2 runs of 1/0 from alternator to battery delete, then battery delete to Lithium battery in the bed (along with proper fusing). My plan to ground is a run of 1/0 from the lithium battery to a "negative terminal" in the battery delete location. Then 1/0 from that terminal, through the voltage regulator "doughnut", then to the engine block ground location. Will that be enough ground for the lithium battery? For the amplifiers, their grounds will go to a solid distribution block, then 2 runs of 4/0 from the distro block the the alternator ground. So you think this would be correct? Sufficient? Also, should I also send a run or 2 from the lithium battery ground to the solid distro block as well? Or would that confuse the voltage regulator somehow? Sorry for the long question. Hopefully you can shed a whole lot of light on this for me. Thank you in advance I also included a picture just incase my description was confusing

I'm an old fucker, I don't mess with tik-tok 🤣

You'll be slapping then! Have you noticed a diffrence between the smart 3 and the smart 3 bass?

You shouldn't have any problems. My alternator can jump up to 15.3 at times with no issue when I ran AGM batteries.

The isolator should do is job. While the truck is on, those 2 batteries are about the same voltage, so that shouldn't be an issue. You also have to think about your truck using the alternator. If you've got a truck that has this gadget and that doodad, it needs amperage from the alternator as well. Say your truck needs 60 amps.... well that brings you down to 240 amps available at whatever RPM they rated the alternator at. (I think it's usually between 2300 and 2500 RPM's, cold, but I could be mistaken). Still much more than your stock alternator, but it's one of those little things people forget to factor in. Also, I'm not super familiar with dodge trucks, but it's there any type of voltage regulator on the truck? That could definitely cause a charging issue as well. I had that problem on my old system in my truck because the stereo shop didn't know how to ground it properly. My batteries where always dead. (That's why this upgrade, I'm doing it myself🤣 that shop screwed me because I didn't have the time to do it myself. But l big mistake).

I'll tell you this, just because that's what the battery says is rated for "6k", that's considering everything is perfect. Perfect RPM's at the alternator, perfect amount of amps going into the battery, all that. Dropping into the 12's, yeah, you're leaving a little bit on the table, though if you're rising to 7-8 ohms, and still pushing around 800 watts, it's rated for 900 watts at 4 ohm. I can't find an amp dyno test on YouTube where they did a 4 ohm test at 14.7 ish volts. (Just to kind of guesstimate). I would think at 14 at 8 ohm, you should see about 1000 or so. Do you compete? Or is this just a musical system in your daily driver?

You back on the forum bud? I thought you where out of the car audio game?