Dafaseles

Much better looking!

I have no idea about box designing. But as far as that subs limits, FI calculates RMS by playing a subwoofer free air for extended periods of time and if there is any little teeny tiny bit of damage, they call it. They are very conservatively rated. Not to mention, with the sealed side of the 4th helping with keeping the cone in control, that is a beast sub!

If you're going to run that amp at 4 ohm daily, you won't need to dial anything back. Even at 2 ohm on that md8000.1, as long as your not sending any clipping to the sub (which you will need a DD-1 for) I wouldn't dial anything back. Done right, I personally wouldn't be afraid to send 5000 watts at that sub in a 4th order.

You would either turn all the values all the way up on your eq, then set everything, or turn all the values up maybe 3/4's of the way. By turning them up all the way, then returning them back to flat after setting up the gains, you completely remove the risk of intrusive clipping into your system. By setting the gains with the values halfway, you risk introducing clipping when you adjust the EQ, but songs that are recorded a little crappy, you have a little extra umph you can tap into when you need it.

This is a thread from 2009. It was a kind of amp linkage tool so you could essentially take 4 1000 watt amps and make a 4000 watt amp. It's pretty obsolete now though considering you can buy 30k watt amplifiers.

Well that escalated quickly

As far as amplifier, anything 4000-4500 watts would be fine. You'll probably want to go with 1 amp because you have 2 dual 1's, so with one amp you'll be able to run at 1 ohm. As far as brand... I'd say just stay away from dual, boss, power acoustic, and hyphonics. Any of the big brands would do you well. Most amplifiers today will do rated or a little more. Alternator, you've got it easy having an older suburban. Everyone makes alternators for your truck. Mechman, singer, brand x and JS come to mind. And the mounting is just a preference thing. No real benefit either way usually. Motor up means the enclosure can be smaller because there is no subwoofer displacement inside the box, but 99% of the sub is outside the box. And cone out is just the opposite. The only thing is you have to reverse the polarity if you're running motor up. When the bass hits, it's usually preferable to have the cone move towards the outside of the box first, then recoil into the box.

-15 would be louder than -10. I'd say use -10 to be safe. If you use -15, you'll still probably be safe, but I would monitor it closely to make sure you're not sending to much of a clipped signal to the speakers.

Not a good idea. Not a good idea to even run them on different amplifiers but in the same setup. You want to run all the same drivers with the same ohm load or you'll run into more problems than it's worth. Possibly damaging equipment.

I don't know if mine does it, it never has, or I've never noticed it. I look at it as a precision tool so I am extremely careful. I've always been taught a bent level helps no one. It doesn't sound like you'd be the person to drop it or throw it around though. This might sound stupid, but it's work so many other times with the DD1's and CC1's. Change the battery to a brand new Energizer. If that doesn't help, yeah, maybe it's out of calibration. Who knows what happened to it during shipping

I just treat mine like it's made of porcelain lol

That is mean looking with the back hatch open! So dope!

I NEED T.P. FOR MY BUNGHOLE! Hehehe.... would you like to see my bunghole?hehehehe

Technically, you should be good. If it where me though, I would just turn off the loudness and redo to steps. I would fear that there would be some songs recorded differently that would cause clipping, but I'm also kind of anal when it comes to stuff like that.

Welcome! If the build is going to be sick, make sure to start a build log. We love to see it

Welcome!

https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-speaker-terminals.html

RIP. Fuck cancer! Sorry for your loss everyone. Sad, sad day

Damn, must have missed it. I'll rewatch them

How did you go about grounding the rear lithium batteries and dealing with the RVC? Or does it not matter because you "bypassed" the RVC by going externally regulated with the alternator...I ask because I have to deal with the RVC in my truck very soon. Battery delete up front, lithium in the bed.

If you must go Skar, SKv2-3500.1D if you're running at 1 ohm

@Anthony10111upgraded his electrical system and got a Taramps Smart 3 and loves it last I heard. We went back and forth with him about his power acoustics amp. When he finally caved and bought a Smart 3, he couldn't believe the difference. But you can't run that amp on stock electrical. No amp that would power those subs properly will run off stock electrical.

Well dude, I hate to be negative, but you're not getting even 1000 watts total out of that power acoustics amp. Even if you beef up your electrical. We just had this same exact problem with another member. Same subs, same amp. He beefed up his electrical, did the big 3, bought a Taramps smart 3 amplifier, and now he's blowing eardrums.

First, those are not 2500 watt subs. They are 1250 watt subs. Tuned correctly and in the correct enclosure, you could put 1500-1700 watts to them and be fine. What amp are you running? Any upgrades to your electrical system? Do you have the dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm? Do you know the specs of your enclosure? What kind of vehicle are they in?

So, with not knowing exactly what LOC you have.... Usually a level control is the same as a gain. So if you're testing your head unit after the LOC, if the "gain" is turned down on the LOC, it could be effecting the signal going into the DD-1. Just saying, that's a possibility.