skittlesRgood

usually much more than one tenth.

the car wont even start so i can do that, and i thought if i put the meter to pos and neg of alt it would tell if alt is good or not. and i was wondering the same thing, idk what would cause the battery (if thats the case) to just all the sudden go shit on me. maybe a faulty battery? i think you need to learn what voltages are acceptable. you said the battery looked good but then later said the voltage was 8v indicating a dead battery. if you tried testing voltage of the alt, with the car on, do you know what voltage you should see? it should be between 13.8 and 15v. going over that is damaging to you batteries. going under means the alt isnt charging properly or at all, depending on the number.a DMM isnt any good if you dont know what the numbers mean. why did the battery go dead? sometimes we, as humans, make mistakes... we forget things. like... turning a dome light off. some people make the mistake of wiring the remote turn on for their amps to a constant 12v source, leaving the amps on 24/7. hook up a charger and see if something in the car turns on indicating that its something you left on. guys, remember its usually the simple answer.

here, i read the manual for you... section 2. page 15. third column on the top. http://www.pioneerel...anual112811.pdf next time press ctrl-f and type in a word for what you were looking for. like i just typed in "rear" to look for rear rca outputs and bam, first thing that popped up.

its in the settings.

you have the "rear" rcas set as "sub". change it back to be "rear"

proof of difference?

doing a slot port internally? you dont have the space. if you cant afford the $100 or so in wood then just keep it sealed until you can build a real box. all you are going to do is cut this box up in weird ways, make it look like crap, and probably leak air everywhere.

^^ totally agree. and like i said earlier, efficiency can easily be better than low imp rise. thats sometimes how a sub can supposedly take so much more power than rated. you build an efficient box but it has lots of rise. put a 5000w amp to the sub but after rise it only sees 2000w. just as an example.

birth sheets are made using a nonreactive load. the results will never be replicated in an audio environment. birth sheets are just marketing. in reality, that amp will always do less than advertised at the nominal load.

very first search result.... S P E C I F I C A T I O N SModel RF 2.6x Description 2-channel "RF" amplifier Output Power (4 ohms)30W x 2 Output Power (2 ohms)60W x 2 Output Power Bridged (Mono)120W x 1 Distortion Max (4 ohms)0.08% Frequency Response (+/- 0.5dB)20Hz - 20kHz Signal to Noise (A-weighted)>100dB Input Sensitivity (+0dB gain overlap)350mV - 6V (low level input) 1V - 13V (high level input) Bridgeable Yes Punch EQ (45 Hz / 20 kHz)No Pass-Thru No Xcard Qty 1 Length 7-11/32 in (18.7 cm) Width 8-5/16 in (21.1 cm) Height 2 in (5.08 cm)

just get a 12v fan thats the same size. should be easy to find. look at digikey if you dont have a local place.

a little clipping is always louder.

video link?

i would use the audio out and boost the signal as close to the laptop as possible.

your port is way too small. and i mean WAAAYYY too small. what do you have for midbass? usually people go with heavy sub stages dont care about midbass and its pretty well always drowned out. i mean, a 6.5" speaker isnt going to keep up with a 12" speaker on 5x the power. just not going to happen. you would either need to install 8"s, or get a nice pair of 6.5" midbass drivers if you want any shot at hearing them over the subs. VV ninja'd!

i have to ask my GF several different ways to get the correct answer out of her. maybe because girls have to be asked over and over, they assume its just natural and it applies to men too.

in my opinion, having owned a couple of these brands: DCpower > mechman > singer (but i never tried singer) really could go with any of those and you'll get a good alt. almost every other company sells complete garbage. you might need a battery or many, just depends on your power needs. what amps and ohm loads will you be running? dont get a cap unless its a carbon cap

you answer lies here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139795-the-ultimate-answer-on-solder-vs-crimp/page__fromsearch__1

yes, that is fine. i fuse my 1/0 at 250 myself but its mainly because i use CCA wire.

i talked to a friend of mine who owns a shop, just a little while ago. he said he worked at a few shops first and watched closely at how they ran the business. after all, you cant just know audio. you need to know how to make money at it. you need to learn time and money saving tricks as well as what your work is worth and what a fair price is.

vendors dont need to "look at you". get a dealers license and call up some companies you want to stock your store with. the challenge is getting the money to buy inventory.

looks. they want it to look beefy. Very true. I picked up an INA-W900 off eBay. Not impressed so far, lots of issues...even if it's used. I expected more of Alpine. ya, i have a w910 rite now. definitely not the nicest unit ive owned but it gets the job done. ill be going back to pioneers next.

a larger box will have more rise but its more efficient. just the opposite for a small box. when i did my testing i found that the larger box made up for the loss in power from rise. if i made the box smaller, my score went down. just pointing out that imp rise is not the only factor to worry about.

false. to me a blown sub means a coil burnt up and there is nothing that low volume will do to break in the copper winding of a coil. the only part i would ever worry about is the spiders being too stiff and cracking. if you are really worrid about it, go ahead and keep the volume lower for a week. but for the most part, break in just mean they get better once they break in. not that they will be damaged if you dont do something special.

step 1. install subs and amps step 2. play your subs. step 3. enjoy your new system. you are done.