Sanitarium

no sense in doing a bandpass for 2 10's. hell i'm not sure it's worth cutting a truck for 2 10's.

I'm sure that's not an option for everyone

http://www.valkyriearmament.com/complete_rifles/ Thought you gun guys would like seeing it.

I like ~my~ 4th order. it works well for my situation. If i had a wallable vehicle, i'd just do a straight wall though.

In 3... 2.... 1...

I believe he's looking for differences in bolting pattern more than anything guys, coulda read it wrong though.

neither one of you have seen these things outside of youtube and smd . just sayin. it's very rare someone comes along and builds well enough to get these kinds of results out of these subs.... verrrrry rare.

sucks to hear. Good luck in finding out what you need to... while we have a converation that keeps this topic in the recent topics

build new box, that's the fun part anyways

I have in fact seen em in person before. They sounded like a wet fart, put up big numbers for burps only, and the owners were ~gooood~ at reconining them in a hurry and often carried a few recones with them just in case. And if you think the kicker solo x is "massive" or "poweful" < not a word > then YOU haven't seen the alternatives.

pretty sure you didn't

I'd take just about anything out there over a kicker anything sub, no matter how much `never had a big build bobby` tells everyone they're stupid for it.

a lighter coat of vht? rustoleum also makes their own version

given everything else stays the same (such as net box volume, and tuning) the one with the larger port will have a peakier response with worse cone control away from tuning.

You know most lumber places will cut the wood up for you with a panel saw right? then all you have to worry about is glue, screws, and holes.

Could the port be extended outside of the box? or does it have to remain internal? If I could extend it externally I could do some creative stuff with it. Would polyfill do anything in terms slowing the air down? I'm also toying with the idea of just sealing the box. I think it's pretty well glued at the seams, the carpeting sucks (used box) but not terrible, so I may just need to seal up the plugs on the rear, and cover the existing port hole up. Yes the port can extend outside of the box as far as you want, just gotta keep in mind where it's exiting can potentially cause phase problems. with that in mind, as ugly as it might be, 2 4" aeros would be right up your alley, using elbows to bend them to fit in the area, running them external to keep from eating even more airspace inside the box..... or just build a new box so it's right from the start.

Just get the AQ's homie. the price difference alone will help ya sleep better. There are better subwoofers out there, yes, but not in this class/price range.

seeing as how the 3500 clamps over 4100 rms, it would be "enough" .. but only barely. 2 of them would be great

I really like the BL's as posted by bdog as an alternative to the HDC3 . but honestly, you most likely won't hear a difference in loudness between em.

you've got 12 square inches of port total, for that box/woofers you want at least 27 square inches of port. in my experience, tuning a smaller box at 30 hz cannot be done correctly with anything shorter than 24" of port length (in general) ,. i didn't even need to do to the math to tell you that 9" of length giving 30 hz was ENTIRELY too small.

..... "past"

I'm running 5.0 daily on my i5 2500k... but now for the question(s) the part in the sub that has to be rated thermally like that is the voice coil. the voice coil is attached to the cone, the cone moves. Water cooling that would only add un-needed weight/mass which would GREATLY affect performance. now onto amps. good amps have a thermal overload protection circuit that ~should~ protect it long before the amp can self destruct. that isn't to say that water cooling isn't used, RF for instance uses water cooling on their bigger amps during the prototyping/benching process. The thing is, the people who would really need the extra cooling in the real world are the same people who burp their cars, or run a 30 second bassrace, then shut the system off and let everything recover. There's also the whole power lost through heat thing, and the fact that heat decreases conductivity, you're really running around in circles here and should just get the bigger amp to begin with.

To build a 4th order don't I take the sealed specs for my sub for the sealed area then make my ported side twice to three times as large and then tune my port to like 40-45hz? In it's basic, basic, basic form, yes. It's much more than that to get it right. You can tune and tweek a 4th order for months and never get it right. Few people can throw one together and get perfect results without planning. Have you built a 4th order before? Nope this is a first. And I am going to figure things out before I build that's the reason for the discussion however I am willing to build and re-build to achieve my goal. If after all the posts I read and other peoples build Logs I have it figured out then I will be very happy. But the way I look at it you have to start somewhere. And getting a box built and tuned and testing it will be the only way to start figuring out exactly what I need. But I don't think I've seen a 4th order with the subs firing towards eachother?? Scroll up in THIS thread and click Sani's build. He's got a 4th order tuned to like 5 Hz(it's stupid low) and his subs are oriented in an opposed fashion. My 4th is tuned to 44 hz. the 6th order was somewhere around 25 (the lows were FUNNNN but i wanted something more musical)

if you can't do subs up port back, do subs up port AT the back, like along the back firing up along the window.