Kyblack76

Awesome looking, and well thought out. Also, i love mini's. Swapped to them a bit ago, when more and better types of holders started coming out over the large anl's. These look fantastic. Very well thought out. Good shit hoss.

Good shit. Get it in.

That’s one of the two (the other the 1500.1) I’m running. Killer 4 Chan.

I am loving the 2 Damore boards I’m running. Love em.

well hell, welcome to 2022.

Ive never heard of or seen the boards/amplifiers. If the above statement that old OG Zed had something to do with them, they may be a ok board. Anyone that look/found the amplifier info, know if they are class A/B ? Are you able to remove the top plate easily, so we can see the internals? (If they are a pain in the taint, dont even try/worry bout it) The Xover, just looks to be that. Just a tool for adjusting pass bands to channels, but not tweaking any frequencies, as far as i can tell. Pretty crazy that todays sources/HU's can do all of that, and more, making those go bye bye. Now, to why i even posted in the first place. And, bare with me. MTX, specifically the first gen Blue Thunders, and the Terminator series, were, to me, the VERY very first "high zoot" driver i ever ever purchased and beat on. This was around 1990-1994. I had a very very large 80x4 clarion amplifier, and set up some 6-1/2" kenwoods in custom door panels (piece of wood, wrapped in blue cheap vinyl, where the little cubbie hole was on the panel) that actually looked ok, and sounded ok, all in a lowered, 1982 s10 extended cable with the v6. Loved that truck. The mtx drivers where in a 6 cube sealed box, me and my step dad built together. Great times. I went through alternators ever 2 or 3 months not having a real concept of power needs at all. The thing, for the time, pounded. Im confident as fuck, that every single person in the small town i grew up in, that loves audio, car audio especially was my doing lol. I miss that truck/vehicle, (i worked my ass off for that thing, while trying to get through high scool) anda also miss the times/fun i had in that thing. Shit ton of young, youth growing/doing went on in that rig.

https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/pages/about-us Fill this out. They'll get back to you. Edit- they have JUST moved locations. But, sure, they should get in touch with you regardless.

Ill bet the oem source level is to low. But, sure, you could set the source up at 7/8s of max, same on the lc7, then, run the dd1 with the amp, and adjust accordingly. Hopfully you dont have a cock ton of floor noise.

First things first,.. do you see SIGNAL ?????? Lets not worry about the distortion light yet. Do you see the 1k or 40hz signal on the dd1 first ?

6amps, ... kekw. ALL the efficiency.

Well that turned out great. Made a ton of stuff fit wicked nice. Good shit per usual. EDIT- man, ive used a SHIT TON, of that Raptor liner, but only in the dual part kit. Never used the aerosol can. Looks like it did great. Ive sprayed fucking everything with raptor liner. I love it. I just sprayed my rock sliders with it. I love that stuff. Also, for anyone that knows, what are the silver, threaded holes on the sides of the Titan8's ? Im way unfamiliar.

Hard to remember, but i think it was one 320 and one 270. (nothing but singers for me) The largest alt i ever had was a 350 i think. What I've seen, is people "just buy the biggest",... then, have issues with turn on speeds, zero output at idle due to low rpm's, dead voltage at stop lights, and such. I always preferred a low turn on speed, and more average amperage through out, then a huge zero to 500amps. With the coming of hair pin style alts, that changed things, a bit. But, to each their own. A 2 foot 1/0 run could probably give and take over a 1000 amps mate. By itself. If your have a 30 foot run, then, id look at adding a second. In your case, i wouldn't. One 1/0 run of good quality cable would do you fine. In fact, that would be the definition of overkill. Also, i highly doubt, your gear, will even get your alt, to see full output. Which hey, is good. But, take the money you'd spend on 47-4/0 runs, that will do absolutely nothing for you, and put it into the build else where. Cheers and best of luck mate.

Ya, you'll be beyond good

Legit, metered 6k? or your amplifier says it does 6k ? Do what your doing, let it eat, add if needed. Cheers.

If your run is short, alt to battery under hood, a single 1/0 would be more than plenty. EDIT- and just looked at the gear you mentioned. I doubt you even see 400 amps from the alt, with that demand. Run 1/0 to the batter, then, branch off at the post, and do whatever it is you need. Dont over think it. Its not rocket surgery or brain science. and, just 1 run of 1/0...... like that for years. I dont really remember this well, but at some point near the end, i get on it a little)

What vehicle is it? If what you say is fact, and the loads are also identical, then your source is in question. I highly doubt there is any vehicle on the planet/made, that would "reduce" amperage draw of a car amplifier. What is your source again? Sorry, i dont really read anything. And you have used a dmm to see your impedance load to the amplifier, from your rig, and your buddies ? Sorry, but I am hung up on the load. Its what dictates what the amp is going to do.

Ohm load my guy. I highly doubt you have the exact same nominal load. Then again, maybe you do. What is your nominal load, and what is his. Report back. If your amp isnt going into protection, i highly doubt its "just not putting out the same". What is your nominal loaf to each (5 channel right?) And what is his..report back.

Is your buddies system, a lower load to the amplifier ? Ill be it is.... just heads up. The amp, will/can only put out, by the resistance (ohm load) your presenting it. A 10k amp, wont draw (make power) if presented a 40ohm load. Thats the way this shit works mate.

Awesome.... Good shit Steve. I own a Damore - 350.2, 400.4 and the 1000.1. I spoke with Tony,... and he told me, "dude, you may wanna wait a bit before ya buy the 1000.1". I didnt listen, and just got it anyway lol. He is a stud. Anyway, well shit, now i want to run the 1500. For those into them, and want a bit of info. The boards are great. Small, run cool. And if you know me, you know, i run all my gear hard. Not abuse it, but, i fucking run my junk. My shit doesnt sit in a spare room somewhere. From my vehicles, to my guns, camping gear, audio, all of it. I work hard, and i play hard, and my gear, needs to perform, or, i get something that does. These boards do, and for a great cost, and the build quality is top tier. I run 2 in my 4 runner currently, with a soon third (most likely the 1500, if i chose it over the 1000.1 i have). If your even thinking about one of these boards,.. click buy, and your welcome. KB

If you mean spectrum, its 20hz- 20k.

Didn't read anything. Is the dd1 just "blinking" the distortion light? That isnt anything. Also, is your signal light on, when this happens? The distortion light, just "blinking" for a split second, is NOT set point. Fyi

Unless it's totally sealed, ull bet firing rear, will be louder. Edit- and if you took the entire back seat out, then just wall it.

Then the amp is fucked regardless. Cool? Edit- so your sending the board in regardless. Also, what amps have multiple power supplies? Also, its usually a fett , or the like that shits the bed, in that case, the person rebuilding it, should replace all of them, not just the 1 or 4 . Cool? Another edit- and any board, and i mean ANY, that takes more amperage than called for, is broke. A amp cant just magically DEMAND more amperage. (Unless its broke) Thats now how it works, even in the slightest. Cool.?

And i always go larger than oem spec. Where abouts is the tuning?