Jessica

Two E's should be louder than one SA. I don't know if the e's handle more than rated like the sa's do though. May take that into consideration. I'm sure you ill be happy with the e's though. But If you plan on upgrading later you may just want to save a bit more and get the sa's. It's hard to save up when you want to get some bump. lol edit: Remember though those may be blown so I honestly would get the SA 12 or 15 this way you can recone it correctly later. Yeah, email them and tell them you want working ones. there is a for sale thread here by skar audio. like i said, just communicate with them what it is you are looking for so you don't buy a blow or damaged sub.

Contact sundown or skar, They both carry open box and b-stock. I got two brand new open box sa-12's for a very very good price. They smelt like brand new and only had a couple small scratches on the magnets. tey work perfect.

That's a good point. Don't get me wrong, I just told the guy what i would do. To each his own and all that. Looking at the comments i realize that I may actually be a bigger d-bag than i thought, lol. Guess if you knew this guy you would understand my position better.

Acutally i made a thread asking what others would do wit it and i complained in that thread. But yeah, i guess i am guilty of that label too. lol

Maybe i should show him that second picture. That looks nice as hell

Kind of what i thought, looks like a 4" drop. I couldn;t tell from the front if it had 2" or not. i don't know what they look like.

So a guy at work just bought this gmc pickup. It's a nice looking truck, plenty of potential. I tell him, It would look sick as fawk if e would just lower it a bit more, get some nice wheels, and put a fleet side bed on it. He tells me, Oh, i want some 15 inch cragars, and i want to lift it a couple inches. /facepalm. I mean it's a two wheel drive, and its in too nice of shape to use as a work truck in my opinion, which is just my opinion. Anyway here are some pic of the truck i am taking about. Now you know i would lower it an inch or two put a fleet side bed on it and put maybe some 20's or 22's on it and then have some fun with the system. What I want to know, if you owned this truck what would you do to it? Also, is this thing already lowered or is this how gmc does their leaf springs?

Try living somewhere where no one has heard of Sundown, DC, Skar, AA, DD, PPI, SMD, Kenetic, Mechman, Singer, I'll just stop now.

Well, I won't argue with you. I didn't really know what it did until this thread anyway. All i can do is test it on my head unit and listen and see what it does. But everywhere i look says that higher "Q" is narrower freq, Lower "Q" is wider freq. Can you explain why all the text about it says that, but manufactures would do the opposite? Seem counter intuitive to me. Just curious. edit, I mean, from what I've read "Q" is a dampening factor, so higher dampening means less, lower dampening means more. right? Just trying to learn here.

Quality Factor The quality factor ("Q") in equalization defines the sharpness of the band of frequencies that are affected by the EQ. The term comes from the days when "reactive elements" were commonly used to make the equalizer have a center frequency that was boosted or cut more than any other audio frequency. How "pure" this reactance was (it's "quality factor") determined how sharply the circuit "tunes" to just one frequency, thus a higher "Q" meant the equalizer affected less frequencies. Figure 2 below shows how the "Q" parameter in EQ adjusts the amount of frequencies around the center frequency which are being boosted or cut by a similar amount as the center frequency. are you sure?

according to that it works inverted. .75 is more offset than 2.0. Am i reading that right?

I think i am more confused now. Is what you are saying is that the "Q" factor is a way of saying crossover slope? like -12db, -18db, -24db. Like the "Bass" level at +3 with a "Q" of 2.0 would boost a wider range of frequencies off center than a "Q" of .75? No I don't think it has to do with the slope. Ok, say you set your bass frequency at 40 hertz and put the q factor at 0.75 the bandwidth will extended at both sides a certain amount of frequencies. So putting in a bigger q factor (like 2.0 or w/e) extends the bandwidth at both sides even more than the 0.75. Example. Bass frequency at 40 q factor at 0.75 the bandwidth would be approximately 35-45 with 40 being the center frequency. Raising the q factor to 1.0 will allow it to play from 30-50. 1.25 will extend it to 25-55.... And so on and so on. So then i do get it. Good, i always set mine at 1.0, but now i can tinker more and see if i can improve my sq a bit. Thanks

I'm with Llama Face on this one. Reset gains using your dd-1 then check A.C. voltage with a dimm. Match to the lower voltage amp. Forget the clamp for now and do all this with no subs hooked up. If your voltages are way different than each other then you have a problem elsewhere.

I think i am more confused now. Is what you are saying is that the "Q" factor is a way of saying crossover slope? like -12db, -18db, -24db. Like the "Bass" level at +3 with a "Q" of 2.0 would boost a wider range of frequencies off center than a "Q" of .75?

http://www.google.co...ved=0CHAQ5Q0wAA http://www.google.co...ved=0CHoQ5Q0wAQ pick your poison, two routers under a $100 each, one is even a plunge router. Go get a jasper jig for about 60 and your'e set to cut any damn hole you want. You can get a set of bit tat will do about anything you need for about 30 to 40 bucks. Best investment you'll make once. here are some bits. http://www.amazon.co...e=3116511&ajr=0] By the way, all this stuff is available at manards for about the same price. edit. Also i know all this adds up to 180 or so, but would you rater pay some guy at a shop, or have tha satisfaction of doing it yourself?

Only complaint i get from my wife about my purchases is this one; "You bought that blank and you never even use it!" Thing is, i buy something like a psp, or some gadget and i use it once a month or less so she complains. My response is, um, i've had that blank for umpteen years and it still works like brand new. That's just how I am, I'll buy something nice and take care of it like it was made of gold. For instance, I have a scanner/printer I bought 10 years ago that still works perfect. It just sits there, but when she needs to scan something it scans. I don't hear her complain then lol. Same thing with the xbox 360 she bought for my b-day a year ago. Gets played once a month or so, but works and looks like new.

Let me guess, your box is tuned to 35hz right? so you are playing a 40hz tone and you are right in you tuning band and your subs are most efficient there. You are seeing 500 watts at 4ohms Considering that amp calls 4 4ga wire, you are probably pretty close to doing it's rated power. But I don't know your amp that well. That thing is huge! yes they are a surfboard i have seen them beforebtw from what i hear they are pretty close to rated but i don't know specs too well Well, 500 at 4ohms should give you 1000@ 2ohms and 2000 @ 1ohms, but I just don't see 2400 on a 4ga wire, probably 1000 at 2ohm and 1500 @ 1ohm is more realistic. But i'm not a rapper.

Let me guess, your box is tuned to 35hz right? so you are playing a 40hz tone and you are right in you tuning band and your subs are most efficient there. You are seeing 500 watts at 4ohms Considering that amp calls for 4ga wire, you are probably pretty close to doing it's rated power. But I don't know your amp that well. That thing is huge! edit : spelling:

Here, i edited it to a better song. It still sucks though, thats how bad it is.

i read 14.4 up front and in back. I had a problem like this once and it was a bad connection. I don't think you should lose a volt front to back. maybe .1 of a volt edit spelling

^^ Thanks, For right now this was just to get an idea if a wall would even work. Even with all the gaps and the 1/2" osb it sounds good. I'm going to put in some o.t. at work and stop going out for lunch and look for ways to save extra cash. Guess it's t.v. dinners and samiches for lunch at work for a while. But since i spend 7-9 bucks for lunhes every day i'm at work i can subtact the 2.99 or w/e my pack lunch is from that and put the difference away. I work 14-16 days a month so, say $5 X 15 is an extra $75 a month. I'm putting off soda too, mostly. So there is some extra. I'm already putting away $100 every two weeks. If i can manage to save $300-$400 a month then in 6 months i will have what i need to do what i want. I just want to make sure i save enough to buy all of it at once, then go buy a $500 car for haulin the kids, which is like once a week.

Or I could just take her car instead.

What if i just put the kids in the port?

all walls are removeable, all you need is a sledgehammer... seriously though, stupid ass idea. get another vehicle if you have to worry about kids in the back seat. Yes, removable wall is dumb, until someone makes it work and work well, then all of a sudden its "sick". Seriously though, go read post number #7 in this thread.

Trust me, I want to wall so bad. But It would have to be removable so i can flip the box back into the hatch and put the seats up if i have the kids with me. If anyone can figure out how to do that and still get it to seal i will do it.