Quiet Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 5 Quote 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet Posted April 17, 2017 Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 4 Quote 2007 Pacifica Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2017 30 minutes ago, srp365 said: I shit you not there are people who actually think like that 4 Quote ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 21 hours ago, audiofanaticz said: as long as the aluminum studs hold its a pretty nifty idea! who said anything about being aluminum.... ASTM 1018 is prolly what we will use or A36 since its cheap steel and can be welded as needed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Because usually when people have things machined it is usually aluminum or some other soft metal and not steel. If you didnt want people to assume, you should of said otherwise.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolanorthhighlands Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 1 Quote My 2002 Kia Spectra LS My YouTube Channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never knows best Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 On 4/17/2017 at 0:46 PM, rocking.that.eclipse said: When you're tired of screwing into wood on your box you make these.... Studs that go through baskets and this will bolt through baffle. Perks of working with CAD every day and having access to CNCs at work a hand full of t-nuts would accomplish the same goal for maybe 1% of the cost.... not to mention the huge waist of material and machine time- or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 2 minutes ago, never knows best said: a hand full of t-nuts would accomplish the same goal for maybe 1% of the cost.... not to mention the huge waist of material and machine time- or am I missing something? That mounts outside of the box, and not inside like you might be thinking of. When i was into model aircraft i would use aircraft grade plywood laminated to 1/2" thick and would drill a pilot hole and run a screw through it and then use thin CA glue on the threads to act like they were metal after the application, the pieces were usually 1" x 2" CA glued to the bottom of the baffle, very effective and never had one strip. Quote 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 T-Nuts have been known to rip out and then you have a sub hung up on 1-8 bolts depending on how many ripped out. Not the worst deal if you have access to the back from another sub cutout, but if you only have one sub per chamber there's not a lot of options to how to fix it. 1 Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocking.that.eclipse Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 49 minutes ago, audiofanaticz said: Because usually when people have things machined it is usually aluminum or some other soft metal and not steel. If you didnt want people to assume, you should of said otherwise.... Touche lol Yeah steel for strength of studs. I couldn't find a good way to machine out of aluminum and attach the studs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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