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Amp with dual power/ground input question


HatersGonnaHate

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I cannot answer your questions as to what would happen but i can say this, Personally I would NEVER hook up only one if it has dual inputs.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

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Sure you could a single run if you were only gonna use the amp at 4ohm or 8ohm. Or tell him to get 1500w amp instead.

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Thanks everybody. I'm throwing in a terminal block I have whether he likes it or not, and I'm gonna feed the amp properly regardless. This post really just got the info out there on hooking up a dual input amp with only one input. Both situations have been addressed and I like the answers that I see. There was no chance in hell that I was going to let an expensive amp like that go to waste by only seeing half of its potential. Dude honestly doesn't know jack about systems, his car club buddies told him what equipment is good, so he bought it, came to me for the box and the install and said his goal is just to be loud. When I started asking him about what ohm load, what coils, and what tuning, he looked at me like I was speaking Arabic. Now I can go to him and explain to him all the answers in this post and hopefully he'll see the light. Or look at my like I'm still speaking Arabic. Either way, I'm not taking any shortcuts when it comes to hooking up another man's gear.

My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild

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looks like tony montana sneezed in your car.

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I hate having to explain how shit really work with car audio to people who think they know about car audio.... simple shit too like an alternator doesn't store energy, extra battery is better than cap, electric turbos don't work

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Depending if that amp is new our not, the warranty would probably be voided if both inputs are not hooked up just for starters. Depending how long the run is from front to back and what wire and how many batteries are gonna be in the back would necessitate number of runs of power /ground front to back. Its kinda a no brainer to run 2 runs from the rear battery to the amp at least, and if you're using 2 batteries in the back a and not using beefy buss bars run 2 wires there instead of just one. Even tho it may only be a 6 inch span you want those batteries to be able to dump the current the amp needs as quickly as they can. If it was me, I'd double up everything starting at the alternator. Unless he is using 2/0 wire. Just my 2 cents.

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What does the amp pull max. I mean, what is the fuse recommendation? Should we talk about duty cycle and all that stuff. Would Snafu tell you that one 1/0 would be enough? If it is a short run from a rear battery, say 3-5ft you might get away with it.

I'm on expert. I would run both if it were me, but it might be possible to only use one.

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What does the amp pull max. I mean, what is the fuse recommendation? Should we talk about duty cycle and all that stuff. Would Snafu tell you that one 1/0 would be enough? If it is a short run from a rear battery, say 3-5ft you might get away with it.

I'm on expert. I would run both if it were me, but it might be possible to only use one.

It's not an issue of if the wire can handle it. It's about distributing the power to the amp's internals.

Look at this pic. Input on the bottom. Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like each input will power one side of the board.

5244fd3e.jpg

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