audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 even 200amps from a 370amp unit is not bad in any way, especially when comparing them to other manufactures that claim 300 amps and only do around 220 max cold at 2krpm. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 i would take a 250a hairpin over a 370a alt any day of the week.. only way i run the 370a is if im only running a single alt or the demand is too much.. that 250-270a hairpin is a tank on idle speeds yeah ill have to tell him that when he gives it to me free not that i was being a smart ass.. just saying if you plan on a dual kit get a 250a to go with the 370a alternator ^^^^ exactly my plan. I have the 370 already, plan on a 250 to go with it Quote 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Things I didn't know. ^^ being serious I have the 370 XP from DC Power and I love it, it is such beast, keeps up with hella RMS wattage.....dont regret getting it, it surprises and amazes me both have their pros and cons.. you just have to get what best applies to you.. bigger is not always better.. for brian 3 370a alts is a must.. for me i could go either way but its hurting me on the performance part.. i cant buy a big cam for the car Edited August 28, 2015 by Miguels 2 Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diegoclass2010 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) im with brian on this one il take more amps over idle, when i did a the dual alt set up i had the dc 270 xp already and i added a 370xp because i was could not fit has many battery i would like, so in the end it does suck to demo at 2k rpm, but i never drop below 14volts edit: but Miguel i do see your point Edited August 28, 2015 by diegoclass2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I see all points, haha, i almost never demo, I usually bust a cruise in the country and full tilt till I decide otherwise. I also ride around in "3" instead of drive to have RPM's up. Inbetween each bass note the voltage is back up to 14.8 (via VM1). If I park and idle it can dig low like around battery resting (about 13) then it hits a brick wall (10 XS power batts usually). Mine came with something saying like 225 at idle or something, it is a hairpin whatever whatever the lingo is. I just know it works for me. I would love to try a 250 or 270 in addition but I really don't see the point. I don't run enough watts to have voltage issues and my 370 keeps up great for what I do have. I am in no way saying it's best, it's just best for me. I listen to my system on solo missions at highway speeds (normally). If I went to every show (if we friggen had more) and most of the time did demo's or what have you where there was more chance on idle then maybe things would be different for me, but heck even then I'm not against revving it to 2k for demos. meh, situation is what it is, not gonna over think it more than I already have. I don't know my set up that well so if it works I am fine with that, lol. 2 Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I'm not buying a 370 amp alternator for a performance car. I'm buying it because I've got a shitload of power. I can even say when the last time my truck saw 6k rpm Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inetba Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 I can remember the last time I hit 6k rpm. Yesterday. I was late for work. However normal everyday driving? Never over 4k. But I drive a 4 cylinder so that's like 1,500-2,000 rpm for you V8 guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) get out, turn it up... walk away,... do it for hours. (this is at 1300 rpm, using my throttle cable, thanks for the help on that brian, and about 80% on the ole knob. I know right where i can put it, and still stay on fully alt load, the vid will verifi. ) Edited August 28, 2015 by Kyblack76 5 Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 long story short, 400A HOT alternators are not possible in a standard casing. well they are possible but dont last. I have had one on the bench for 27 minutes before the rectifier got too hot and diodes started to pop. if you get a water cooled rectifier or maybe a copper rectifier with same design as the aluminium you might stand a chance. but then the regualtor is going to start to get hot. but at that point, why would you try it to have it fail at some point down the road. that amount of current is just too much for even the dr44 casing. if you have a gm car or even a ford truck,m look into running a dual triple or quad alt setup. if you have another car, look into bracket options or removing ac. a 370 is good for freeway cruising, but if you plan on playing at idle or even around the city go with a 250A HOT unit aka 270 cold which most reputable companies offer. if you don't mind revving to 2k rpm + then a 370 will yield more power for you. but on hot days city driving red light to red light and such thier idle can be minimal to non existent. also if your car has a red line above 6k rpm and you actually drive it there, be careful becuase a lot fo these companies throw on super small pulleys to get them spinning faster. this also poses a problem because new smaller belts must be used, and if the belt wrap isnt good then you are prone to hearing belt squeel. it sounds like you like the technical aspect so id look into multiple 370s or 270s depending on the points i mentioned earlier 2 Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 long story short, 400A HOT alternators are not possible in a standard casing. well they are possible but dont last. I have had one on the bench for 27 minutes before the rectifier got too hot and diodes started to pop. if you get a water cooled rectifier or maybe a copper rectifier with same design as the aluminium you might stand a chance. but then the regualtor is going to start to get hot. but at that point, why would you try it to have it fail at some point down the road. that amount of current is just too much for even the dr44 casing. if you have a gm car or even a ford truck,m look into running a dual triple or quad alt setup. if you have another car, look into bracket options or removing ac. a 370 is good for freeway cruising, but if you plan on playing at idle or even around the city go with a 250A HOT unit aka 270 cold which most reputable companies offer. if you don't mind revving to 2k rpm + then a 370 will yield more power for you. but on hot days city driving red light to red light and such thier idle can be minimal to non existent. also if your car has a red line above 6k rpm and you actually drive it there, be careful becuase a lot fo these companies throw on super small pulleys to get them spinning faster. this also poses a problem because new smaller belts must be used, and if the belt wrap isnt good then you are prone to hearing belt squeel. it sounds like you like the technical aspect so id look into multiple 370s or 270s depending on the points i mentioned earlier werd... there is pro's and con's of all. There is a reason Mike put 4 270's on Kevins quad set up. Derek had some 400 rated pigs, that didnt make it through the first show. He has went back to the 370. Im picking up what your putting down man 2 Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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