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Work looking good so far.

XS Power D5100, 2 D2700s, & 2 D975s

MechMan 220a Alt

DC 5K

Kicker 650.4

2 12 Ascendant Audio Mayhem's

Pioneer DEH-P7200HD

Rockford Fosgate 3sity.1

Build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/166792-88-nissan-maxima-trunk-build/#entry2430899

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191439-lexus-is300-fi-crescendo-shca-rf-pics/

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looks good!  gettin' it

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Just got my fuse holders from audiofanaticz with a little something thrown in. Appreciate it man!

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Can't wait to put these in when the weather will permit it... hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get something done.

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Got my fuse holders in and my grounds. 

I used my volt meter to find the resistance between the probes ~.1-.2 ohms and then took a measurement from the grounding bolts to areas around my vehicle like the cross bar for my rear seats and further up a little. My results (not deducting the probes resistance of .1-.2) was ~.4-.5 so I think these grounds will suffice for now but If I ever run into issues I will just run another 1/0 run to a bolt just down and right of my other grounds.

Here's the final product:

Engine Bay: 

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Trunk:

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Grounds:

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Next major step is to build the box, amp rack, and distro/fuse rack then a battery box of sorts

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Now here's some mid project shots:

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Sorry for the mix-matched picture ratios but I just took these willy-nilly.

I added some electrical tape around the trunk fuse block because It felt better that way rather than exposed bolts.

 

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Managed to get the car able to drive again today minus the rear seats and saw Deadpool 2

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-Added screw/brad size for the different joints

I was able to get two sheets of MDF at home depot this morning along with all the tools/kit to build my box and other parts like amp/distro/fuse/battery racks. Decided to get two sheets so if I screwed up I could just cut again without having to go back to the store... 

My design comes from https://www.jeepandbass.com/box-designs | Gross - 4.77 ft³ | Net 3.59 ft³ | Tuning 33.58 Hz | 2x P3D4 12s | DC Audio 2k

Saw this classic ford in the parking lot of HD

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Decided to cut my two sheets a little different than each other. The first was cut to be 32" by 4' and the other was roughed around 4' x 4' as the accuracy was not needed. I plan on designing the other parts of the build once I have the box in the car so I can see what my options and I am not strapped for time. 

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Here is the portable table saw used to make the final cuts after rough cutting with a circular saw. Some of the pieces, well most of them, were too large to use the portable table saw exclusively so rough cutting each piece with about a 1/4" extra room turned out great and I just used the factory edges on the fence to make the cuts. Seeing as MDF is quite toxic I made sure to use eye protection and a filtered face mask. For dust collection I just used a hose that fit somehow perfectly into the port on the rear and taped it off. Afterwards a push broom and gas blower did the rest of the job. 

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Here is the end product with all pieces cut out and the scraps I was left with to either use for other parts of this build or to have for the future. Check out how much dust was pulled from just a push broom! 

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What I plan to use to reinforce my glue joints with; brad nails to hold the pieces together then coming back with predrilled screws of varying sizes for different parts of the box.

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1" screws and brads | 45s

1 1/4" screws and 1 1/4" brads | Baffles connection between layers

1 5/8" screws and 1 1/4" brads | Most joints for the box excluding the connection between the baffles and sides/port

2 1/2" screws and 2" brads | Baffles connection to sides walls/port walls

 

 

 

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I was able to get the baffles done besides cutting the circular hole and the back / sides all set today. 

To get a circular mark on the baffles I just used a scrap piece of mdf and two screws that were the radius (5 5/8) of my subs cut out diameter (11 1/4) and found the center of each then just ran the outer screw around the piece, tracing with a pencil to make it more profound.

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To piece this together I am using titebond II as my glue between the sheets and brad nailer to hold them in place, going back with screws of varying depths to reinforce while the glues wet. 

Turns out those clamps were unneeded

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After waiting 23 hours I cut out these sub holes today and they turned out pretty good.

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I sanded down after using the jig saw to fit the sub in and to round over the front and back edges to reduce the fraying/fibers.

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I planned out the port walls and attached the 45s in preparation for tomorrow. I can't wait to hear this thing late next week!!!

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This shows what the box will look like when fully attached besides the top. I think I might black out the ports with a rattle can but that remains to be seen... 

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Just a little round over with some sandpaper block. I might come back and bring these down further but this is better than a straight edge either way. I also sanded down some of the front baffles port sides a little. 

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And here is the 45s attached. Same thing with my other pieces but this time with 1 inch brads and 1 inch screws. The four on each side seems over kill but the pieces refused to seat properly and I didn't have a clamp with a 13 1/2" depth to hold them for a day. 

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