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getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

There is a thread for that: Say it should be around 40 Hz but if your box is for music and not burps, you don't want to tune close to resonance, it will likely make your system pretty bad. Your subs are for daily not competition.

Here is a box made to be similar to the one you linked but a bit better for the lows and the cutsheet can be completed just with a table saw and a jigsaw, no need for router: Power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4", figure is just an assembly guide:

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

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Made some upgrades to the ebike https://i.imgur.com/ZoNrhEy.mp4

When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.

You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.

for the smal info that i could find, its a us made sub, 800 w rms each, dont quote me on that lol so 2 12" with 1600 w rms is a nice sub to have for a daily....

Jesus my guy. Come play some warzone with me. Edit- my next buy is a 240 (plus) Hz oled. Maybe the Rog rig. Not sure. May wait a tick. Monitors are just getting sooooo good. But, i want a rad oled thats wicked fast. Just 2 g7 240hz (27 and 32 inch) here. I want a nice oled.

Done!

I still cant get over how huge those 4090s are LOL. Like putting an cinderblock on your motherboard.

What is the vehicle?

dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.

Finally got some screws so I could throw the subs in the box and see how it fits in my car. First issue I noticed is that the terminals + wire was too difficult to get into the box without ripping the wires out. So a couple quick relief cuts were needed. Then I hit it with the shop vac. After that, I wired in the subs and chucked em in the box. I pre-drilled some pilot holes and screwed them in. They're snug but not fully tightened yet. I have an idea to make the box a little prettier so they'll probably come out at least once more. And lastly just a quick test in the car. I'm gonna drive around with them for a few days to see how the space effects me. This is the average load I have in the trunk with my tool backpack, a set of rain gear, and the Milwaukee bag full of drills. Sometimes I carpool so you can just about double that for those days. I'll need to figure out something to protect the subs. Finding grills would be difficult with how much xmax these guys have. Maybe some bars or something. Shoot me any products or ideas you guys have. I'm also thinking about adding some kind of small lip to the top of the box so I could throw My toolbags on top of the box and not worry about them sliding off. Maybe some kind of cargo net. who knows. And DEFINITELY glad I'm going with 2 subs now. This box loaded is a back breaker. I May throw some straps on top to make it easier to pull in and out. 3 subs would almost require two people.

Alright now for the fun stuff. For subs I'm going with 2 Sundown audio x-8v.4's. Why? because 8's are Rad, and I'm trying to keep my care as usable as possible. But also because it's different. The original plan was 3 but I was having difficulty making a box for three that would work within my size constraints and the SA 2500.1 D would struggle to run 3. Maybe down the line I'll go for broke and run 4 off of a beefy 4k for shits and giggles, but most likely I'll sell off the extra 8. The Box that the subs are sitting on is a CT Sounds dual 8 enclosure with 3/4 MDF, a kerf port tuned to 39hz, and abou .81cu ft per woofer. It's on the smaller side but it was cheap and I figured it would be good to compare against a future box with a full 1cu ft per woofer and 32hz tuning. But first, I needed to fix a few things. These Cup terminals. Known for being leaky, So lets fix that. This is some Second Skin Butyl Rope that I had leftover from my last build. This stuff rocks. It's especially good at silencing license plates. This worked for me before with a sealed enclosure, just gotta really work it into the cracks. Next I put some ferrules on the wires because ferrules are awesome And Last I used a little Tessa tape (Fabric Tape) just to make sure the wires don't rattle against the box. And that's pretty much where I have to stop, at least until I gut my other car, and start building an amp/battery Rack.

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

Wiring/batteries: Honestly, 1 run of 0ga +/- should be fine unless you're pushing absurd lengths. Can calculate voltage drop across wiring to get wherever ya need as far as Vdrop goes. Same goes for batteries. That's plenty for the power you're running. As always though, you can always adjust/upgrade if you find your electrical isn't performing how you want. I don't have any hands-on with those rigs, so I'll take your word on the ground loop shenanigans. --- Alternator: Again, prefacing this with I don't have any hands-on with these. So if you've already done the research on it, apologies. Just want to have a talking point on it. I'll also add that if you wanted to bypass ELM altogether, ask mechman for an external regulator. If you go that route, throw the wiring harness in the trash and wire the +/- on the regulator with 8ga tinned OFC. In my experience, the 14(?) gauge the kits come with creates a bit of a feedback loop of sorts and yields inconsistent voltage. the tl;dr is voltage drop across the sense wires causes the regulator to read low voltage, increasing power, increasing voltage drop, and so on until it sees an equilibrium. At which point, the regulator eases up, eliminating the voltage drop, then reading a higher voltage, and so on until that sees an equilibrium. Then the whole process repeats cyclically. See it more with larger battery banks or capacitors than with smaller stuff, ironically. Would this one work? https://www.mechman.com/alternators/acura/ilx/2-4l/2013-2015/240-amp-alternator-for-select-2-4l-honda-acura/ If so, honestly, you could probably ditch the rear battery and replace w/ capacitors to save some weight, or throw a smaller one in there. Idle output might be challenge though, IIRC these hondas have a smallish crank pulley. That's something you'll have to weigh the pros/cons of on your end. --- Trunk coating: Be careful with any sort of painted on material, especially in low spots like the trunk, and absolutely don't use it on exterior. It likes to trap water between the coating and base material and can cause some corrosion issues. Nice idea on the off-label use though. Always like to see those sorts of experiments. --- Rear speakers: depends how stiff they are. Rear stage usually isn't a huge consideration on builds like this. But there are 2 trains of thought on it: 1. Remove them altogether so you have a gaping hole to let pressure through to the cab. Test and check to see if your system performs better with them in or out. It's not always better because of resonances. That turns your box+trunk into a psuedo series-tuned-6th-order. 2. Install the rear speakers and leave the buckets in place to protect them. The pressure from the sub will shred the things otherwise. Depending on how it goes together and how stiff it is, you could use sound deadener to firm up the area and bolster your efforts to seal off those drivers.

Looks solid! ------------------- I think you're on the right track using tinned OFC for exterior wire, but saving a few bucks using raw OFC for interior. Nothing wrong there. Nice to see another hydraulic crimper user. Only thing I'd add is to mind the lugs you use. Closed ended, tinned copper lugs are the way to go. Solder and crimp lugs are quite different! For heat shrink on exterior wiring: Make sure ya grab adhesive lined. Or, if that's not in the cards for one reason or another, you can get away by putting a thin layer of high temp hot glue over the area, then putting the heat shrink over that and warming until the glue melts and oozes out. Not as cheesy as it sounds, that's all the weather-sealed heat shrink is - just pre-applied for ease of use. I'd also get some wiring loom to add some protection to the cable. Bumps and abrasion can take their toll over the years. Get the woven variety - less apt to trap and hold moisture than the plastic corrugated stuff. ------------------- Other notes: - Don't forget the grommet when passing wires into the vehicle. Butyl putty is awesome for sealing stuff up and excluding salt/moisture long-term. It doesn't cure - stays soft like chewing gum. - Can also consider a pass-thru bulkhead if that's up your alley - Alternator wise, mechman, singer are the favorites. I've used DC power and been happy but that was many years ago. Not sure where they stand now

You can also setup your gains low making sure power delivered is within drivers specs. No one is to say if that distorted signal will make any difference, It's all about being prepared to prevent a bad outcome. Much luck and if you have any other questions let us know.

got all the bracing in and done and reinstaleld the front baffle its now permantly attached and sealed , while i was at it i decided to invert the top center sub just for looks , not sure if im going to leave it inverted hence why i just pulled the speaker wire out of the port to hook it up for now . the motor is dangerously close to drivers and passenger heads , im a lil owrried somone might smack there head on it in an accident or say in an panic/emergency braking situation so not sure if im going to leave it inverted, ill do some testing with it this way in 2 days when the glue and edhesives i used are fully cured

Sure you can do that for some moderate improvement, larger improvements involve greater cone area like for example doing 2 15s, if doing a larger than recommended box and tuning higher requires you setting up your subsonic filter higher to prevent sub bottoming out.

Depens on what you mean by "together" but if I imagine right you would have a parallel tuned 6th order bandpass, still that would be useless because in such enclosures the chamber sizes are of different sizes, port area and port tuning of each port are vastly different, in other words that wouldn't work at all.

You are running 1300W of power in your audio, no need for any other electrical upgrades if just playing music, No need to be checking your voltage unless something in your car is not working properly, the amps will work just fine in the 12-14V range no problem. If you are just curious as to why the voltage is being regulated the way it does, just have your electrical checked and then ask your concerns, to me, if your car works fine and your audio works fine I would just leave it alone.

i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35

That is not normal. Your car is possessed most likely.

Those subs indeed need their space 4 to 6 cubic feet per driver is what they usually are given for ported use, if will use those in your room rather than a car tuning should be in the mid 20s not in the mid 30 which is what is given for car use. It all depends on the application, you will need to be more specific on your dimensions, music you play, or movies or whatever you are doing with them, how are you powering the subs, etc.

If you have a subpar electrical you can go with this: Rockford Fosgate Power T1500-1BDCP It will give you like 1200W at 4 ohm and close to 2K at 2 ohm, it is expensive unfortunately but it can work on bad electrical also fits 4AWG cable. There are cheaper alternatives, Taramps smart 3 bass and the SIA series from sundown BUT full bridge amps need costly perfect electrical, 12.5 V minimum under max load or these amps can get damaged. These type of amps better leave alone in entry level systems.

Not sure if I am OG but life has been rough. Glad to be glancing around once again though.

time to put the box in…although it may come back out for more @Second Skinsound deadener soon!

No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.

Wrong, I still cant understand how people think this or maybe you worded it wrong but the DD-1 will NEVER measure clipping. You will have distortion long before clipping is ever seen on an oscilloscope. Once the red light on the DD-1 lights up you hit 1% THD so by the time the wave is becoming deformed on an oscilloscope you are so far beyond that 1% THD that the DD-1 is looking for.

I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!

OK . . . when I got the call from Steve yesterday on the second T15kw, I gotta tell you that I was pretty excited - so excited that I walked over to engineering right away and shared the news with the T15kw build team, and of course Tony D'. You should of seen the look on their faces . . . everyone is very excited about this project - a single vehicle with two T15kws . . . the thought of that just stands the hair up on the back of my neck! We're even more excited that Northern Cal's mad scientiest is behind it! Who better to ensure that these amplifiers will perform to their fullest than Steve Meade? I read about the last five pages of the thread and all I'm going to say is that two T15kws will be more than enough power for any and all speakers Meade can cram into this vehicle. What you have to take into consideration is that the T15kw is not like any other amplifer on this planet. Although it is a class A/B amplifier, it does not behave like one in many respects. Furthermore, it does not sound like any Class A/B amplifier these ears have ever heard - and I've owned some nice ones! To NOT use Hybrid Technology power on the mids and highs - now that would be criminal! When you guys think of power in watts, you're bound by the amplifier technology of today - one has to think differently when talking about Hybrid Technology amplification. Certainly, a watt is a watt - but traditional amplifier behave quite differently from the T15kw when driven into clipping . . . I think it's about time for Tony D' to make a forum appearance at SMD so that he can elaborate on what I speak of. What do you guys think?