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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/14 in all areas

  1. A few weeks back, someone stopped by while i was busy working on the RZR and asked if i could take a look at his MTX 1501D amp. He said it wasn't working. I told him i am in no way shape or form an amplifier repair man. I can do basic stuff, always have. But anything beyond basic, he might as well just call MTX. He said the speaker terminals were loose and it kept cutting out. Well that, to me says "cold solder".....and "cold solder" is something i can obviously fix . So i said "what the hell" and told him to toss it on the bench. When i finished with the RZR i would take it apart and see what i can do. After a few weeks, i finally cracked it open. Sure enough, the solder joints on the speaker outputs were very loose. I resoldered them and everything was back in business. Instead of just handing it back, i decided to test it for him to make sure it was working. Hence...the new Amp Test Tuesday. First of all...just an FYI before i start. I have a very limited power supply on my test bench, I have 3 12v batteries, 3 14v batteries and 3 16v batteries. A lot of companies rate amplifiers @ 14.4-14.5vdc, basically the type of power you would expect when the vehicle is running and the alternator is turning. For that reason, i decided just to use the 14v bank. If a company stresses 12v ratings in the book, i normally will do those as well. But this amp is a random amp that came in and i don't know much about it. 14v bank it is. That consists of 3 XS Power D1400 Batteries sitting on a XS Power HF1415 (15a) Intellicharger. It is in no way shape or form a "power supply" although when you look at the tests you might see the SURFACE charge above 15v. That is quickly used up when the test starts and is brought back down to low 14v range. It is not a perfect test due to my power supply issues. BUT, i think 3 small 14v batteries on a small 15a charger with a 1500watt rated amp pulling on it isn't TOO far off what you would see in real life. You guys know how i do this.... Who wants to play a game? I did 3 tests. Guess the TOTAL number combined (add all 3 together) to come up with one large number for your guess. If someone gets the EXACT number, i will send them $50 plus an SMD Shirt AND SMD Hat. If NOBODY gets it, i will give the closest person who did NOT BUST an SMD Shirt of his/her choice. Add All of these below and post your final number! Tomorrow, 7/8/14, At 6pm Pacific time i will upload the Youtube video with results. Check my channel @ http://www.youtube.com/meade916 1. Certified Mode (test stops @ 1% Distortion) @ 1 ohm (X,XXX watts) 2. Non Certified Mode (test stops at Clipping) @ 1 ohm (X,XXX watts) 3. Dynamic RMS Burst Mode (Test stops @ clipping) @ 1 ohm) (X,XXX watts) Here are the specs i found online. Thunder Elite Series 1-Channel Class D Car Amplifier RMS Power Rating: 4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 1500 watts x 1 chan. Max power output: 3000 watts x 1 chan. Semi Unregulated MOSFET LED thermal and short indicators Pure N-channel design Single channel operation Overload and thermal protection Prizm EFX With Demo Mode Self adjusting, turbo-charged intercooler that intelligently supplies cool air evenly and constantly over all devices based on the amplifier's demand Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave) CEA-2006 compliant amplifier Dimensions: 20-11/16" L x 9-5/8" W x 2-1/2" H Here is some pics. Good luck!
    2 points
  2. How is a Amp supposed to be i ohm stable?Kinda obvious what I meant, right? i didn't even notice... but ya, how the fuck can it be i ohm stable? Fuck. I was gonna try to come back with a smart-sounding reply, but....... I guess fat fingers got in the way LOL. Fat finger my ass!! (no pun intended) the i and the 1 arent even close to each other!
    2 points
  3. You changed your numbers as well, Your dynamic rms burst mode test said 2100 before for a total of 5700 Brian all over this shit.
    2 points
  4. How is a Amp supposed to be i ohm stable?Kinda obvious what I meant, right? i didn't even notice... but ya, how the fuck can it be i ohm stable? Fuck. I was gonna try to come back with a smart-sounding reply, but....... I guess fat fingers got in the way LOL.
    2 points
  5. How is a Amp supposed to be i ohm stable? Kinda obvious what I meant, right?
    2 points
  6. oh, no need to say it i know...but for those that are new, you can find info on the SMD AD-1 Amp dyno (and more) @ http://www.wcCarAudio.com or http://www.damoreengineering.com This is fun, i love doing this...so lets see some guesses
    2 points
  7. 1 point
  8. wow, some people gonna be surprised by the results after seeing some of these numbers, lmao
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. How is a Amp supposed to be i ohm stable?Kinda obvious what I meant, right? i didn't even notice... but ya, how the fuck can it be i ohm stable?
    1 point
  11. all i know is i turned that setting down all the way. I used the AD-1 to set the gains as it has a built in DD-1 PLUS inside of it. So regardless of "eq boost" the gains are still set for the amp to put out full power when the deck puts out it's maximum clean signal.
    1 point
  12. I think you and Steve and Brent should get together and do something like this because with the three pro's like you guys...you could make something really cool....just saying!
    1 point
  13. It's ok if it's clean and you also dd-1ed your blue tooth to ensure you are getting a clean signal there too. If you rip music from YouTube I'm betting it looks pretty scary
    1 point
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