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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/09/12 in all areas

  1. oh and also, a lot of the shit you see here will never be seen. I rounded the box over and made it look good outa principle.....and because i was taking pics for the net. It will mostly all be buried in trim panels when i am done but at least I WILL know it looks as good inside as outside.
    3 points
  2. I think i am sticking with plan C! Instead of modding the "plan A and B" box to fit the 15, i said "f#$K it" and built it all nevw from scratch. This time i used all 1" with exception of the bottom board (due to fitment issues). Its ok though, the bottom board is on the floor of the trunk so its plenty thick. I will probably do some glassing as well. This will be a LONG build so hang tight i cant do it all in one day! FYI: all RF amps and hopefully 3 sets of T5 components to go with this... Time to cut the port. It has 51" of area. It is 8.5x6" and 14" long. Tuning 38hz.
    2 points
  3. Titebond II or III. Once you've used that all other wood glue sucks X2....Titebond II all the way. I buy it by the gallon! I have to agree, Titebond is the best wood glue I ever laid my hands on. Hell, I've never heardof or used any other glue than the Titebond II. There's another?
    2 points
  4. the box config along with the cabin gain will allow me to EASILY play below 30. 38hz was a good compromise. The system should have great range. Also, i listen to just as much, if not more ROCK then rap. Ask anyone who knows me I play rap for bass demo's but i am a metal head too for sure. it WAS (for plan B ) with the 2 12's...... but now i am doing just the single 15, it will change to accommodate just the sub and the port.
    2 points
  5. before you tell me the woofer is off-center, let me tell you that i did that on purpose. Due to the way the trunk is and where the baffle meets the metal behind the seat, i needed to raise it as high as i could. Also, with that angle, i needed to make sure the magnet wasnt going to hit the bottom of the box. I will cut JUST enough metal to let the port and woofer breath into the cabin. Then i will seal the cabin from the front of the baffle........BASSSSSS!!!!
    2 points
  6. The hole on the left, obviously the woofer, the square in the middle is where the ski-hole is......and the rectangle, obviously is the port. It don't really matter where the ski hole is because i am cutting all that metal out. I just wanted a reference so i knew where i was at.
    2 points
  7. Tested it today but there is no way to "temp" a box in with an SMD and 3500watts on it. It just wants to pull the box apart. I tell you what though, the tone is DEEP and powerful.....great range. And that was on the BENCH. Wait till i get me some cabin gain. once it is fitted and the hole is proper.....i will pull the box out AGAIN and do my bracing and get the bolts to hold the sub in properly. Then i can finally put it in and try it out!! Its all about prep work here. I can't rush it. One more thing - reminder of what i already said. The sub is off center for a reason. There is a support bar at the bottom of the opening that is about 3" high. I raised the sub up as high as i could to clear that. Its still not fully cleared but its not too bad. I usually do my best cuts old-school style but i hit some layered metal and had to put the snips down. thats right ya'll the old jig saw with metal blade. Made SHORT work of the task at hand.
    1 point
  8. sorry man i am having trouble deciding what to do in my own car, i have no idea what to do with your car. Go ported. Thats about as far is i have gotten with my car so far and couldn't tell you what the next step is until i already did it LOL! thanks!
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. In case you didn't know, I'm 120% jealous of the panel saw. LOL I use the same corner clamps as well. Progress looks sweet, but you know you gotta put up more pics than that!
    1 point
  11. Scrap the project my ass. You'll figure something out, lol. You NEVER keep anything stock.
    1 point
  12. The smell is not glue burning off. You are smelling coil, but it will go away once the sub breaks in. What happens is with such a stiff suspension as the level 6 has, there is not enough coil movement in the gap to allow proper airflow and cooling. Once the sub breaks in and the coil can move freely in the gap, it will cool properly and the smell should go away.
    1 point
  13. Hey meade, on that T400.4 do you have 2 tweeters on each channel, so a 2-ohm load on each channel. And how much power do you give those tweeters, 50 Watts each (since it does 100W x 4 @ 2 ohms)
    1 point
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