CleanSierra

OP, Fi SSD's are great subs for the price and thermal handling. You wil not regret it should you choose it.

Have you personally run RE?

You dont have the space to get a proper box in there with 1 18". Stick with 2 12s, fire them forward, seal off around the edges and call it done. You're welcome

He's got plenty of space if he goes with aero ports instead of a center or slot port.

Probably a much tighter gap and not intended for music.

You said you're wired at 1 ohm, what are your coil configurations on the subs? You seem kinda new to audio perhaps, so more information on your setup would help very much. Saying your gain is set "half way up" isn't a good way to measure if it's set up properly. Those amps aren't know for their quality so it MAY have something wrong with it. Id say check(or get them checked by someone that can) your sub coils with a Digital Multi Meter, and see if they read the proper resistance.

What type of Dodge Dakota do you have? Is it an extended or regular cab?

If it's 12 gauge Fosgate wire, you're probably good. I don't know of a kit they make that has 12 gauge in it though. It's likely 16 gauge, and if it were me, I'd go to 12 or 8 if I were you.

Fosgate has that new PRO line of 8" and 6" mid drivers. I've had them in my hand and looked over them, and they seem LEGIT. Sensivity is 93dB http://rockfordfosga...x?itemid=223200 Pic:

It will work just fine, however something does concern me. You said you may drop it down to 1 ohm. How do you intend to do that? Your sub will not wire to 1 ohm, you'll have to get a second to run a final load of 1 ohm. In that case, the 750 isn't gonna get it done.

Most 8s work in hardly any air, in comparison to other size subs. I'd say that the Sundown SA8 will dig some of the best lows in the proper box. Box tuning, vehicle type and power will determine what your sub will sound like more that anything.

Any Directed products alarm will work. They do Clifford, Viper, Avital and many more. I run an Avital 2 way paging alarm, and I am very happy with it. Keyless, remote start, and 2 way paging, it was 350 installed. I can't complain about the price or performance. As far as your audio concerns, make sure the car is mechanically right before you start doing anything audio. DON'T be the guy that's got a slammin system that has to bump in his driveway because he chose to buy an amplifier rather than the fuel pump he needed. Just take your time and piece together the system one item at a time.

Just 1 port. You'll want a port that kind of goes the width of the box across the back of the cargo area. Post some dimensions and I should be able to help.

You'll want a port about 4-5 in height. You'll also want to input common port walls as 1 if you want to run the port on the bottom of the box like most SUV setups. You'll definitely need bracing since having the port like that is a weak spot. The subs arent THAT heavy though, so not much bracing. Get your port area to about 12-16 sq inches per foot and make sure you have the amount of airspace each woofer needs X2.

Me personally, yes, I'd add another set of components. Those subs will rape your sound stage, if in a proper box and your electrical is up to par. I'd suggest some mids that can handle some serious power for your door speakers. Maybe run at 2 ohm to get more of of the amp.

Posting model numbers is a great idea. Most guys on here don't prefer anything oval shaped, myself included. It's a better sound to usually get a round speaker to fit on that hole. Like 6.5 components, or coaxials. I'm not a huge fan of coaxials even, but your 6X8s in question are coax. Kenwood makes ok speakers, but the excelons would probably be where I'd spend money if going Kenwood soundstage. What kind of bass are you going to need to match, so we can determine if the Kenwoods would suit your build? Also, you plan on amping these speakers, correct?

Good first post Zachary. For a grand a piece, you could certainly buy subs much better than the W7s, just sayin. To the OP, we've all been there. What IS your current setup, just so we know what you're dealing with?

A 120 can be done with my door speakers... *Edit- Not just mine, many door speakers. I wasn't trying to sound arrogant, just stating that 120 is not a problem. I'd say a GREAT score for your car would be anything above 140. That's where I would realistically shoot for.

The RE box calculator isn't quite correct. I'd go with a bigger port than 1.5 inches. When I get home, I'll check your box specs into a different program. Someone may give you advice before I get home, but I'll do it as well. RE doesn't include displacement of your drivers and the tuning is higher than what they say.

That amp is plenty powerful at 1 ohm, you shouldn't ever go to under 1 ohm on a Fosgate amp. If you need more that 2400 watts(which I'm sure it birthed out at) get a different amp.

Thanks I just wanted some trusted eyes on it, not that I wasn't convinced by the other guys. I appreciate all your guys input for sure, thanks. Now I get to do my second favorite thing in the world, get MDF and go apeshit with a router and circular saw.

How does voltage look while you're getting these things warm? They should be able to take much more power(clean power) than you're giving them. How are you grounds as well? Is the amp getting hot also? What about the wire(power and ground) going into the amp, is it hot as well?

Thread jack^^Kranny go click my aero port thread and respond. Thank you. Thread jack=over

I'll take pics. The only reason for making the box with aeros, is because I've got a couple 10s I wanna do a push/pull isobaric setup in. I'll invert the one sub to fit ass out between my bucket seats in my truck. I know output won't be crazy, but frequency response and FLAT response should be nice.

I'll help....2.268 here we come Chode, hahaha. *Edit- Subbed