CleanSierra

With the dimensions you're at now, can you even fit the box in the trunk? I'll bet not fully assembled at least. Building a box INSIDE of the trunk can be done, but it's a pain in the ass.

Not port number, that box is for aero ports if being used. He is referring to the Number of common port walls box. Edit-In miscellaneous

Jesus dude, that many reserved? 1 or two would have been plenty I would think.

You gonna "Negative 500" this now, to be safe?

The whole point of the 150 post count is for good reason. It's to avoid guys that like to "go around" the rules.

you're always so helpful with this kind of threads... Unless aero ports are needed....

What kind of vehicle do you have that you plan on putting this system into? Also, you KNOW how much those things would cost right? Retail, right at $1600. If you're looking for a Crazy 8 build, then go for it, airspace wouldn't be much for 8. Do you plan on putting some serios power to them? Even at RMS ratings, you'd need 4K in wattage. Give us details about vehicle and overall goal. You could probably be impressed by a couple of badass 12s to be honest. Airspace for the 8s TOTAL would be around 4-5 cubes(.50-.625 cubes per sub). 3-4 cubes for a couple of 12s would work well too.

RMS on tat sub is 700 watts. You're thinking about running more than DOUBLE that to it? I realize in the real world with impedance rise and voltage drop they won't see the true 2000W a piece but still.To answer your question though, if you wire in series/parallel, you will achieve a final ohm load at the amp of .75 ohms. Just wire all the positives together and go to the positive on the amp and the same with your negatives.

OP, Fi SSD's are great subs for the price and thermal handling. You wil not regret it should you choose it.

Have you personally run RE?

You dont have the space to get a proper box in there with 1 18". Stick with 2 12s, fire them forward, seal off around the edges and call it done. You're welcome

He's got plenty of space if he goes with aero ports instead of a center or slot port.

Probably a much tighter gap and not intended for music.

You said you're wired at 1 ohm, what are your coil configurations on the subs? You seem kinda new to audio perhaps, so more information on your setup would help very much. Saying your gain is set "half way up" isn't a good way to measure if it's set up properly. Those amps aren't know for their quality so it MAY have something wrong with it. Id say check(or get them checked by someone that can) your sub coils with a Digital Multi Meter, and see if they read the proper resistance.

What type of Dodge Dakota do you have? Is it an extended or regular cab?

If it's 12 gauge Fosgate wire, you're probably good. I don't know of a kit they make that has 12 gauge in it though. It's likely 16 gauge, and if it were me, I'd go to 12 or 8 if I were you.

Fosgate has that new PRO line of 8" and 6" mid drivers. I've had them in my hand and looked over them, and they seem LEGIT. Sensivity is 93dB http://rockfordfosga...x?itemid=223200 Pic:

It will work just fine, however something does concern me. You said you may drop it down to 1 ohm. How do you intend to do that? Your sub will not wire to 1 ohm, you'll have to get a second to run a final load of 1 ohm. In that case, the 750 isn't gonna get it done.

Most 8s work in hardly any air, in comparison to other size subs. I'd say that the Sundown SA8 will dig some of the best lows in the proper box. Box tuning, vehicle type and power will determine what your sub will sound like more that anything.

Any Directed products alarm will work. They do Clifford, Viper, Avital and many more. I run an Avital 2 way paging alarm, and I am very happy with it. Keyless, remote start, and 2 way paging, it was 350 installed. I can't complain about the price or performance. As far as your audio concerns, make sure the car is mechanically right before you start doing anything audio. DON'T be the guy that's got a slammin system that has to bump in his driveway because he chose to buy an amplifier rather than the fuel pump he needed. Just take your time and piece together the system one item at a time.

Just 1 port. You'll want a port that kind of goes the width of the box across the back of the cargo area. Post some dimensions and I should be able to help.

You'll want a port about 4-5 in height. You'll also want to input common port walls as 1 if you want to run the port on the bottom of the box like most SUV setups. You'll definitely need bracing since having the port like that is a weak spot. The subs arent THAT heavy though, so not much bracing. Get your port area to about 12-16 sq inches per foot and make sure you have the amount of airspace each woofer needs X2.

Me personally, yes, I'd add another set of components. Those subs will rape your sound stage, if in a proper box and your electrical is up to par. I'd suggest some mids that can handle some serious power for your door speakers. Maybe run at 2 ohm to get more of of the amp.

Posting model numbers is a great idea. Most guys on here don't prefer anything oval shaped, myself included. It's a better sound to usually get a round speaker to fit on that hole. Like 6.5 components, or coaxials. I'm not a huge fan of coaxials even, but your 6X8s in question are coax. Kenwood makes ok speakers, but the excelons would probably be where I'd spend money if going Kenwood soundstage. What kind of bass are you going to need to match, so we can determine if the Kenwoods would suit your build? Also, you plan on amping these speakers, correct?

Good first post Zachary. For a grand a piece, you could certainly buy subs much better than the W7s, just sayin. To the OP, we've all been there. What IS your current setup, just so we know what you're dealing with?