Ninja_v1.0

Rusty, Can you switch the mode from power supply to charging from the remote?

better get that practice in.. someone will be headed that way soon to tear down the entire city

and you are?

Guess I am the luckiest person in the world to get back to back defective products of a rarely sold item. That's like buying a Ferrari and it becomes a lemon. Than get another Ferrari and its a lemon too. The odds??? I posted this thread about 2 weeks ago for some direction and no one had anything to say. Now I call out a brand and now everyone has something to say about the kind of person I am. Amazing that you guys are blaming me but when I was being nice asking for advice, you guys were all quiet. Now my asking for advice has turned into me causing my own issues and making accusations, you guys all want to start pointing the finger at me. Really guys? How many SMD products do you own? I am in no way a hater. I am an installer and always looking to get any edge I can over other installers in my area. I use my SMD tools on the regular. Hell if Steve came out with a fkn screw driver, I'd probably buy that too. A forum is open dialog for people to connect. Last time I had an issue I posted a thread and Tony responded later the same day. I was pretty much expecting a similar interaction since he still is a partner in here. //////////////////////////// The AMM-1, like all of our tools has a auto-off timer that will shut it off after about 8 minutes to save the battery if accidentally left on. If you are deep in the middle of doing something and you are worried about it shutting off mid-test, just press the "ON" button occasionally, this will reset the timer. If it turns off and says low batt when turned back on, or just won't turn on at all, the battery is probably junk. Even "fresh" batteries if cheap or old might have problems. You need a quality battery like a duracell or energizer that has been made in the last couple of years. They ususally have experation dates on the packaging. About it not reading power, let's make sure the battery issue isn't an issue and then try measuring power again. You need both the voltage probes hooked to the amplifier speaker + and - and ONE of the speaker wires (the positive or negative doesn't matter but not both) going through the current transformer hole. As for the serial number, it should be behind the rubber boot on the tool above the battery door. We build all of these by hand, 100% in Tempe, Arizona. We do not buy these or outsource the labor and the same 2 people have been building them for over 3 years and over 6000 units now. I have no idea why a serial number wouldn't be there. Lets work though these items one at a time, I want you to enjoy using the AMM-1 as many others do. Tony FOR ALL OTHER COMPANIES.. THIS IS WHAT TECH SUPPORT AND CUSTOMER SERVICE IS SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE

I would buy them. I'm about to have to put mine into my wall, my back isn't looking forward to it. you have no clue what is about to happen.. i was crammed into a xterra 4th order.. not easy for a 6' 3" 260lb guy.. then having jeff ass in there who is bigger than i.. no bueno.. those subs needs to come with midgets to help load dem summa bitches

after finals and lifting those fucking level 6's in and out of jeffs box.. the hell with those heavy ass subs.. fack!!!

its the new breed of audio... which is why i have retired.. makes no damn sense..

So I will get a new speaker entirely. That is what I'd like. I filled out an RMA form. How is the shipping taken care of? edit: thanks for the swift reply Jacob, it's much appreciated. how would you know the difference between a new speaker and the one that you have repaired? As long as you get a surround that is proper and will not do the same there makes no sense to give you coils, frame, spiders and a motor. That's just crazy.. but to each their own i guess.. Im sure sundown will take care of you either way

goodbye

hrm...

More than likely yes, because having a level 4 woofer with a level 3 coil put into is actually pointless. Im pretty sure the level 3 coil is weaker than the level 4 coil so down grading a level 4 with a level 3 coil is unheard of. Now putting a level 4 coil into a level 3 motor would possibly give you better power handling and handle a little more abuse if the cooling is up to the job on the level 3 motor, which Im sure it is. So if anything you have a level 3 woofer with a level 4 coil, maybe an added spider to make a tad stiffer suspension. Level 3m2 4 layer round wire coil Level 4m2 8 layer flat wound coil like you know anything about dc subs.. pff

and yet again you have it wrong.. pwk /thread

little birdy said it was an ar-15 and it was for protection of all you guys.. never know how wants to show up and try to get free batteries or steal the vodka

your truck gets driven 1 day out of the year.. i would hire another n8 so it can actually see some play time