March 2015 SOTM Vote- Sponsored by Droppin Hz Car Audio - Enter to win a $350 store credit!!!

[2000TACO]

since when is spaghetti wiring clean?

[magillaru]

since when is spaghetti wiring clean?

If you're referring to what I think you are, I'm surprised this is the first time it's been mentioned. Been thinking the same thing.

[bighossf150]

I like the idea of the mods voting like they did one month a while back

[n8ball2013]

Someone will then say oh I didn't win because they don't like me or this or that.

[ShowtimeElectronics]

Good luck to everyone! We 're still trying to choose which build to vote for

[sideshow_kustom]

Stealth and clean! Get them votes in before time runs out!

[rockFord_Expedition]

Let's keep The votes coming guys!!

[rockFord_Expedition]

I left out some of the work I did so I figured it's better to stick it in late than not at all..... that's what she said!!

Anyways, the work is boring but important, and something that alot of people skip. I never used to do this until I learned how important it was.

One of these pics is a repost from the middle of page 3. I must have gotten too excited about getting some bass going that I forgot to post the rest.

Without further ado, here is how I swapped out the factory front door speakers for the RF T2 6.5 components.

Biggest challenge is that the opening is 5x7 so not only am i putting a round speaker in an oval hole, it's also too big.

Step 1, trace the shape and size of the OEM speaker with the flush trim bit

Next I cut the mounting hole. Theres literally less than 1/16" on the short sides. I reinforced the outside with some "bondo glass" which probably wasn't necessary since it will sit inside of the opening and won't be vulnerable to outside pressure.

Not sure if you can tell, but I actually managed to get a slight round over all the way around the mounting hole. I did this because I am using a mounting baffle to seal the air in behind the speaker. This was the only way to close in any air space since the way the power window mechanism is set up, I couldn't seal up the door without restricting the movement of the window. I am also feeding these components about 25% over rated power, so a smaller enclosure is probably best anyway.

Speaker wires pulled through, of course I have to have the female spade connectors for a neat and secure termination

Baffle in, speaker wires pulled through, wire pass through hole about to be sealed up with a little piece of second skin

Speakers mounted and sealed up.

Had some foam laying around and secured it around the speaker in order to direct all the sound into the cabin and not reflect off the door panels and resonate inside the door. Looks ghetto, but it's functional and done proper. Remember this is a budget build and this foam wasn't purpose bought, it was scrap I had laying around.

OEM Cover back on the door. Only thing I didnt take a pic of was the panel re installed, but everyone knows what a stock door panel looks like.

Thank you for looking.

[sideshow_kustom]

Some new Pin-Striping on the Drive-In Theater Speaker/Bass Control Knob/Switch Box! Looking AWESOME!!!! Please take the time to check out all the FINE detail I have put into this build. Make sure to cast your vote! Check the whole build out on this part of my system in the link below!

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196957-drive-in-theater-speaker-build/

Top view

Side view

[Wood]

Ima be straight up, I don't even know HOW TF Razon even became somewhat popular... his build skills are TRASH and I've always thought that... His build is ASSSSSSSSSSSSS and don't even deserve to be on the ballet... Call me an asshole for this, or a hater (like they call people who tell the truth now days), but oh well... dude puts NO effort in his build compared to the others and I FURTHER lost MORE of the non existing respect I have for him for trying to cheat! ESP when Steve took it upon himself to bring back the contest and even contribute out of his own pocket!!

(I might get a warning for this but somebody has to say it )