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IMG_20180824_034130.thumb.jpg.49eb2589b536f71b99f65858eb95163f.jpgMy system:   all stock electrical.     

   Walmart brand battery, think it's about 775 cca not sure.         

 Hifonics Brutus Brz 2016.1d  2000 watt rms stable and wired at 1 ohm.                                           

Roughly 5.7 cu ft {gross} 4.3 {net} ported sub up/ port back enclosure. port is 4" wide 13.5 tall 28" long after cabin gain I think she's tuned to around 34 hz.   

         2) Skar Audio EVL 12's dual 4's.  

   So my subs are displaced, not side by side, but like -- _   ... I'm concerned that the placement of the subs vs. where the subs are/ or box size or port size is maybe making one of my subs bottom out? I'm just looking for tips and tricks with my setup. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I'm running 2 strands of 4 gauge power and 2 gauge ground btw. What can I do to make this thing a ground pounder?? Not so worried about metering, just wanna be heard and shake everything up. Shes loud but I feel like there's room for improvements with what I've got . Thanks guys 

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Wanna get loud have the subs facing the back, front or upwards facing subs have nothing to reverberate on so it is just going straight, I know it sounds weird but it actually works.

And if the subs are bottoming out then that means you need to adjust ya gain on the amp a lil down, or the subwoofer signal from the deck down to 0 and the bass and treble also at -7, ya it sounds odd but that does actually help.

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dont be afraid to upgrade your wire to at least 1/0 too.  but in the pic it's subs up port forward, so you have the box turned 180 from the pic?  make sure the port mouth is at least 4" away from the hatch door.  you can slide it back and forth to get a different gain off the door too.

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Youre gonna gain trunk rattles, so be sure to deaden the trunk. 

How far back does your port go?  If the sub is right at the port mouth it could unload and bottom out.  Possibly.

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

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(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

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On 8/24/2018 at 5:18 PM, bmwking said:

dont be afraid to upgrade your wire to at least 1/0 too.  but in the pic it's subs up port forward, so you have the box turned 180 from the pic?  make sure the port mouth is at least 4" away from the hatch door.  you can slide it back and forth to get a different gain off the door too.

Yes, the port generally faces the rear. I've been moving it around alot lately, it was late af and the whole shabang is pretty heavy, so I just laid it over to get a pic. I had it subs back port up and it sounds pretty good. When I first built the box, I built it old school, subs back port back. Then I replaced the board and  faced them up. Its just as loud, idk about louder than it is now with the subs mounted up. Imo, it's more punchy with the subs back, but "boomier" maybe with em up. If I had to guess I'm probably close to 147ish db. It's loud, I gotta post vids on my YouTube channel so you can check em out. It'll hover a Walmart bag and all but not "tricks" I guess you'd say. Oh and yes,  I always give the port room. I need to just send the sub back, upgrade to a taramps 5k or similar and really turn heads with 2 12's. My buddies already claim it's the loudest in my town right now but that ain't saying much around here haha. 

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I think I have about a 30" port, can't remember exactly. But the L piece is almost as long as the main port wall. And the sub is mounted like 2 inches from that wall, it basically wraps around the one sub and where the other sub is kind of out in the open by itself inside, I a 3" wide brace on the wall near it to hopefully keep from having loading issues. And the port extends past the other sub inside the enclosure some. Maybe an inch or 2. 

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