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Um... hang on a second...

Trying out a few UV lights to see what works. Nanometers are important. If you are going to get your own, you should look into something between 385-410nm. I tried these three: i got these at home depot. They worked but it took about 15 minutes. 13watts, Nanmeters unknown. Results were OK but not favorable enough IMO. Next up 20watt flood bulb. Nanometers 365. Didn't work very good at all. Took about 20 min. Next up, the LED panel. Nanometers, 390 (iirc). This one worked pretty good! It took about 5 minutes. Of course the sun takes about less then a minute but for indoor use, 5 minutes aint bad! i am sure there is even better out there but so far, this seems like a good solution for those cloudy days or when you need light in a dark kick panel! check out http://www.blacklight.com to see the panel i bought as well as other stuff too!

I will literally jump around like a 5yr old kid when I see a vid of someone with a X or z4 sub in a tline on good amount of power and tuned low using that mechanical travel. Would be sex.

M3 8s have arrived..get your orders in....I expect these to sell out fast

Just get a Kinetik equivalent up front... no sense in spending the money for a red top .. plus you ideally wanna have the same battery technologies within an install

I would suggest you to sit back, don't touch any equipment, read much more of the forums, and ask educated questions related to box design and a systems electrical. Krakin I've tried reading up and posting threads, asking questions and I always get different answers. Always. I asked what size alternator I should get, some people said 250 with 3 batteries, some said 270 with a couple batteries, a lot said a 370 with 4 batteries cause they like overkill. What's your OPINION on what I need? I know that there are always debates, thats why i want an opinion. You know what I'll be running.

he wants more lows so a larger box would be better.. Im sorry but im learning alot from you right now.. a larger box will give him more xmax for better lows and plus tuning a 4 cuft is easier than a 2cuft box.. how so? the Fi Q has the xmax of 28mm and have no problem getting low it has to do with the tuning. bigger box is more efficient which will get you louder with less power not hit lower notes it easier to tune a bigger box lower than a smaller box and to hit lower notes 25hz> you need xmax and air. a bigger box is going to allow for more xmax to produce the lows needed to be louder.. to do it with a small box you will need more power..

A Zv4 10" being pushed into clipping on a Sundown 2500D at 1 ohm free air.....I do not see a problem with two of these on a Sundown 3500Dv2 at 1 ohm in 4 cubes....These subs have some serious mechanical power handling

Well I'm just planning and designing I'm not building yet! But damn this is funny to read! Lol anyways thanks for the advice fellas, I might check back in once the specs are released, and I know it's late but here. also! Any more advice on an alternator? I don't want to overkill it so I don't wanna throw in any money that I don't have to.

Although it is nice to see you want to help Felton .... stop giving bad advice, without seeing the "EXACT" requirement for the Z.4 I wouldn't go beyond 1.5 cubes per 10" because that would be kinda ridiculous .... Please read up some more before someone listens and loses a subwoofer or more.... I mean this with respect.... im sorry but you gonna need a bigger or another alternator bcuz the saz3500 amp needs 350a.. this is so wrong lol look at Fi Q an 18 needs 6 - 8 cubs ported and not the 4 -6 you stated.. every sub is different and you should go with manufacturer recommendation i wrote these subs,,,

Awesome builds guys, can see where all that 1/0 cable and lugs went that are now out of stock

these are running in a 1cbft box...and i have a RF power 1000.1 running them......in my my opinion from a standpoint of an 8 in woofer they can get loud

Holy shit! I knew it was over 30 but DAMN! I really want to see the 5 specs now.

yes could i have a copy of the cd thank you